my old CAL Q&A PAGES are BACK! These Cal Q&A pages finally return after a nine month absence. Postings and replies are still FREE! I never realized how many people read these Q&A pages until I removed them. I had a lot of emails requesting them back. Please note: MY EMAIL ADDRESS HAS CHANGED! Please send all my email to: go2erie@sssnet.com (just click the link at the bottom of this page) . I upgraded to a cable modem and was forced to switch internet service providers.

This 3rd Q&A page now covers emails received from 7/5/99 thru the present. Most Cal owners with questions simply want their e-mails posted on a Q&A section so that other users (perhaps with "first-hand" answers to their questions) can reply directly to them. So, just leave me an e-mail with your question and I'll post it here. There is no charge or fee for this. It is absolutly free. If your e-mail address is included in the post and you get a direct reply, I'd appreciate if you would foward a copy of the reply to me so that I could post it. The answer may help someone else that has a similar problem. Any addresses or phone numbers in the text of your e-mail will be posted unless you tell me to omit them.

HOW to USE these Q&A pages... Got a Cal question? Just load up one of my Q&A pages and use your "FIND" feature of your browser to search the page for your question. To learn about your "find" feature on your browser, click on "HELP", then "INDEX", then "FIND". If you're using IE, hold down "control" while you tap the "F" key to activate it. Try to keep your searches simple. For instance if you need rubrail or have a rubrail problem, just type the single word "rubrail" (no quotes) into your search box. You'll find every question that has the word "rubrail" in it. How do I get my email posted? If you email me, and I think that other readers might be interested in your email, I'll post it. I add these emails into the Q&A section at my convenience (they are not posted automatically), sometimes it takes a while. I upgraded to a cable modem and was forced to change my ISP, thus, my email address. Please don't send email to go2erie@bright.net as this address will soon be gone. My new email address is: go2erie@sssnet.com Thanks

From: Gary Mason masonr@kingston.net To: cal-list@sailnet.com . Subject: Re: Cal25 secondary bonding . . . Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 11:29 PM

I'd love to buy a Cal25 here on Lake Champlain. I just got it (Cal 25) surveyed and was told that the "tabling" or secondary bonding around the "tank horse" and where the bulkheads join the hull were ruptured. The joints had come loose, like sheet rock tape in a corner. I was told that it would affect the structural integrity of the boat. This boat is 17 years old. Does anyone have any experience with this? The boat yard estimated that it would cost $600-700 to repair.

Gary's reply: This is normal for a cal 25 mind you 17 years old sounds like it was abused a might. Mine's over 20 and the tabbing is fine replacing the tabbing can be done quite easily by yourself if you're willing to work with epoxy I'm sure there is enough expertise on this list to help you replace it yourself.

During my recent 2-29 purchase the surveyor reported wet core in the cockpit sole, the cabin roof on both sides of the companionway hatch, on the foredeck, and in several other smaller places. He determined this mostly by using a moisture meter. In addition the cabin roof is "bouncy" in the flat area around the companionway. Can anybody tell me the deck structure in those areas before I start cutting (in the Fall)? Has anybody undertaken this project? Thanks for your help.

Bob Lakari, Cal 2-29

I rebuilt the cabin top deck of my Cal 2-29 (NEPENTHE, #489) three summers ago. The headliner was 1/4 inch plywood covered with a headliner material fastened by battens and screws. It was easily removable.

The deck structure (from top down) was about a 1/4 - 3/8 inch fiberglass, 1/2 inch plywood, with a single layer of fiberglass on the bottom. The bottom layer of fiberglass was easily cut away. The plywood (two sections with a longitudinal joint) was fully saturated with water in places and for the most part was easy to remove. Portions which were dry had to be removed with a chisel. I removed the full width of plywood from the cabin aft bulkhead to about 2 feet aft of the head/cabin bulkhead. The plywood further forward of this was sound (and didn't remove easily).

I rebuilt the deck using a 1/2 inch medium density foam core (Klegecell PL55) with about 1/4 inch of fiberglass on the bottom. My fabrication method was as follows:

• 1) Mask everything (I used several layers of newspaper). It's a messy job.
• 2) Sand underside of deck (disk sander)
• 3) Cut the foam into about 2 ft x 4 ft section
• 4) Attach foam to underside of deck using resin and a layer of 1 oz mat, held in place with battens and 2x4s wedged against bunk, counter, etc. until cured.
• 5) Check for voids between foam and deck. Fill with syringe and resin /microballon paste. Fill gaps between foam pieces with same paste.
• 6) Glass underside of foam with 1808 DBM (double bias with mat) fiberglass cloth. Total of about 5 layers.

The finished structure, although a big improvement compared to before the rebuild, was not as stiff as I would have liked. The next summer I finished off the overhead with 4" x 5/16" ash, attached with screws and epoxy. This added stiffness and ended up looking pretty nice.

Some thoughts:

• 1) I debated for a while on foam versus plywood for reconstruction. Foam won out because 1) it's easier to bend to the shape of the deck; 2) provides better surface for glassing; and 3) won't absorb water in the future. I think if I had to do it again I would still use foam, but would use a higher density (PL75) and thicker (perhaps as thick as 3/4 inch) to get more stiffness. (If I had to do the forward berth ares I think I would use plywood since the deck in that area is almost flat. Same for the cockpit).
• 2) I used a good polyester resin (isophthallic) instead of epoxy, both because of lower cost but primarily for much faster cure time.
• 3) I used a house fan mounted over the forward hatch and blowing out (drawing air into the boat through the companionway hatch).
• 4) I got my materials from Fiberglass Coatings, Inc in Florida. You can get a catalog by calling (800) 272-7890.
• 5) I found "The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual" by Allan Viatses a great reference for both general fiberglass techniques as well as core replacement information.

Good Luck.

Hi Carl, Congratulations on tackling, and completing, a messy job. I have a couple of comments if I may:

• You should never change the type of core unless you are going to a stiffer material. Sure 1/2" ply is difficult to bend, but what is usually done is to laminate 2 layers of 1/4". This is very easy to bend to shape and a laminate of 2 x 1/4" is stronger than 1 x 1/2"
• Polyester resin, even Iso, will not reliably adher to old polyester. Even if it does adher, the bond is no where near as strong as epoxy provides. For that fact alone I consider the slight added expense for epoxy is well worth it
• Vinylester is nearly as good as epoxy, but is more expensive.
• Where did you get the idea that epxoy takes a long time to cure??? In summer temps I have to use a special "slow" hardener just so I can get some working time with epoxy.
• Please don't kid yourself that foam does not absorb water... It certainly does, evidence all the saturated rudders in existance, not to mention saturated foam deck cores. Closed cell or not, it still absorbs water in time.
• I seriously question your statement that foam provides a better surface for glassing. Plywood will absorb a certain amount of resin (especially epoxy) which immediately provides a superior bond. A caveat here... If you are bonding plywood **do not** use polyester resin as it does not bond to wood with anything like the certainty of epoxy.

Regards, BC

What's recommended for removing wax? I will be doing some gel coat repair & know that the previous owner applied turtle wax to the topsides. Also, suggestions on restoring the original white & medium blue gel coat [ it's in faded but generally good condition] would be appreciated. I was concidering sanding the gel coat with 1500 grit, then compounding & waxing it. Any wax recommended that will stand up to New England summers? Joe DeMers

Joe: You can get a wax and silicone remover from auto body supply shops. Follow instructions and use lots of rags or paper towels (so you don't just spread the stuff out). There are silicone fish-eye preventers that are additives to your paint or finish, but I've read that they work by introducing silicones into your new finish and generally cause more problems than they solve. Perhaps others have experience using them. Chris Campbell

Except the "industrial" wax remover will not work on the Collinite wax. I know. We tried to remove it the conventional way before applying vinyl lettering. Nada. Fell right off.

Collinite says that only its cleaner and elbow grease will take off the wax. Hope this helps... And.... Have a happy and SAFE time on the water! Ken Kloeber

For wax removal, and removing the original mold release agent (yes it will still be around even after all these years), get some Interlux 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash... Use 2 people (one to apply and the other to immediately wipe off) and lots of cloths... If you don't change the cloths frequently you just start spreading the wax around. BC

Any Cal 34 owners in the Puget Sound area want spare parts for an Atomic4 and backup reduction gear and V-drive? We all know how expensive even thermostats can be.

I have an Atomic4, transmission, and Walter V-drive that came out of my Cal 34. I believe that the block is cracked in that I had water in the cylinders. Remachining the head did not solve the problem. Also the exhaust manifold checked out ok. The transmission and V-drive were operational when removed from boat.

Asking $250, Ron

Hello All, I've got a 86' Cal 33 that I assume has all its original standing rigging (its about 15 years old). The boat had been stored (previous owner) with the mast in for at least the last few winters. I've starting to notice subtle but growing rust stains on the deck in the area of the shroud connection points. This rust can only be coming (slowly) from the rigging/turnbuckles. On closer inspection, the standing rigging wire is not squeaky shining clean, but appears to have some rust within. My questions ...

• 1. Can this just be cleaned ? If so, with what recommended product ?
• 2. Just replace it all ? (which after 15 years I'm inclined to do this winter). If so, what type of wire is preferred ?

Cheers, Paul Duffy

I have a heat exchanger, expansion tank and a Jabsco pump that were on my fresh water cooled Atomic4. I'd like to sell the package to someone in the Puget Sound area (ie can pick it up) and am asking $75 for the lot. Thanks, Ron

I've found three different companies that make Cal Rubrail. D&R marine Inc., WEFCO Rubber Manufacturing Co., and Salisbury. Has anyone had any dealings with these companies? How does the quality of their product compare? D&R claims their product is non-chalking. Can anyone confirm that? Cheers. Woody

ALLAN W. BART" wrote: Hi, I am using my cal with a cockpit traveler system and I was wondering must i also use a vang arrangement, i would appreciate your comments. allan

Hi, Allan. Traveler sets the boom height going up wind (unless you get a spring loaded vang). In lighter air, a windward traveler position will let the boom ride higher for the same angle to the wind. Vang sets the boom height reaching and running. Without the vang, you will get excessive curl in the main when off the wind.

Cheers, Charlie Husar, '74 CAL 25 - 1657, "Chicken Little", Annapolis, MD

-----Original Message----- From: WILLPATTEN@aol.com [SMTP:WILLPATTEN@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, July 10, 1999 5:28 PM To: cal-list@sailnet.com Cc to: go2erie@bright.net . Subject: Re: Roller Furling question

I just bought an '82 Cal 25 on Lake Champlain. Great boat. What makes yours a 2-25?

1st reply, William Wagner wrote: Actually I was wrong about the year, she's an '81. As for the differences between the regular 25 and the MK2, I couldn't tell you. That's just what the told me it was. I really didn't know much about Cals before I saw this boat and fell in love (most of my research was done into newer boats until I finally faced that fact that I'd never be able to afford a new boat). I've tried to find info online but there doesn't seem to be much out there. If anyone knows of a web site or something that might have that kind of info, I'd be happy to hear it.

2nd reply writes: Bill, original CAL 25 was flat deck with pop top from the Lapworth line that first separated the keel form the rudder to improve agility of boat (among other things). Very much a sister ship of original CAL 40, 28, and 27 T/2 among others of the line). The original CAL 25 was built from the mid 60s to the mid 70s - 1977 was the last year I believe - with some 1800+ unit in existence). The boat was/is a cruiser racer with emphasis on the racer. Fair amount of room below, but it is horizontal rather than vertical.

The CAL 2-25 (sometimes called an MK2 - because it sounds sexier?) was started in the mid 70s with a cruising emphasis. The dog house gives close to stand-up head room. Last time I was in one, I remember the cabin sole being molded glas rather than wood. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe she is a Lapworth. I can't quite remember when all the companies started going broke and selling out. Jensen goes to Pearson goes to O'Day, etc.) She has an inboard (on some) and a lot of space. She does not have the old deep bilge. She is a sister to the 2-27, 2-29, 2-30, 2-34 among others.

Cheers, Charlie Husar, '74 CAL 25 - Chicken Little, Annapolis, MD

Dan: Just acquired a 1977 Cal 34 and am in the process of bringing her back to life. None of the three mast lights work and I fear there may be a wiring disconnect inside the mast. Do you know where I could get a wiring diagram or set of plans that would sho where the wires can be accessed, since the mast sits on a 2 by 8 post and there are no obvious places where the wires exit or enter. Thanks in advance.

Rob Shellow, Bethesda, MD, imarcorp@mindspring.com

Editor's note~ Yes Rob, there are connections in the base of the mast. These are always troublemakers. The best time to clean them up and check them out is when the mast is down. There is usually no way to get to these connections while the mast is stepped. dd ~end editor's note.

Received: (from dfew@juno.com) by m11.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id ER74TVXS; Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:26:39 EST To: go2erie@bright.net Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:25:33 -0800,Subject: Picture on web Page of Cal 24 footer

Dan ---The picture you said was a Cal -24 and had a correction offered by some "old timer" that it was a Cal 25 is indeed a 24 foot Cal. It is the 2nd generation 24 foot Cal known as the Cal 2-24. It is identifiable primarily because of the double aft lowers. Were the entire picture shown you would also see that it was a 15/16 rig and it had a bolt on cast iron keel. The early Cal 25 was a Flush Deck mast head rig with single lowers and internal ballast. I own a Cal 25-II, mast head rig with double lowers, and inboard, 1980 model, one of Bill Lapworth's last designs before Hunt took over.

I e-mailed you once before but never received a response so was not sure you received my e-mail. I have most of the brochures for Cals built up to about 1980 under 30 ft. The USsailing data books are also a valuable source of configuration data if you are intrested.

Regards Dave Few Chairman, Northern California PHRF Committee.

From: SWhhite@aol.com To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 27 leaking rudder post. Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:36 PM

I have a 27 foot Cal. Hull #153. While at the dock she does not leak a drop. However, under power water comes up through the top of the rudder post housing. I am not sure how to tackle this problem.

From: David R. Stapells, stapells@audiospeech.ubc.ca , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple, go2erie@mail.bright.net Subject: tidal grid... Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 PM

Hi Dan, I've enjoyed your various pages! I have a question re: my Cal 2-29. (We purchased a 1974 Cal 29 last summer -- interestingly, it was built up here in North Vancouver BC! We've managed 51 days out in her since June --loved them all.) My question is: Do you know if the Cal 2-29 can be easily/safely taken onto a tidal grid?

I was all set to do a do-it-yourself bottom cleaning and zinc replacement on our club's tidal grid when freinds suggested I check around first to see if Cal 29s can safely be put on a grid (are they balanced, etc). We hauled her out with a travellift when we first got her -- certainly looks like she can go on a grid. Any ideas??

Much appreciated, David Stapells, Vancouver, BC Canada stapells@audiospeech.ubc.ca

My reply: (I didn't know what a "tidal grid" was.) Sorry About That, editor. We don't have any "tidal grids" here in Lake Erie.

Hi David, I don't understand what you mean by "put on a tidal grid". Cal 29s have traveled the seven seas, if that's what you mean. They're not really my favorite choice for ocean travel but they've been there. The problems with a 29 footer for ocean crossings is that there's not enough room to store all the water, food, life rafts, and other safety equipment without severely overloading the boat.

Actually, tides don't really effect sailing during mid-ocean travel. Unless you read the tide charts, you don't know if it's low or high tide while you're sailing in mid-ocean. Tides effect sailors while coastal cruising, however. The rising and lowering of the water level causes water to rush in and out of bays and channels causing high currents at times. So coastal cruising has far more effects on a sailboat than does mid-ocean cruising. If you're sailing near Vancouver, BC, you must already be experiencing these tidal effects. If your club has a "tidal grid" type of race through this type of situation, I'm sure that your Cal will do well.

Dan Dalrymple, editor of the website:

Hi Dan, Thanks for your quick reply.

A misinterpretation indeed! A "tidal grid" (could be a west-coast Canada term) is a docking area (usually with pilings -- sometimes with a stone -- ouch -- wall) where the tidal range is large enough (and the bottom flat/clean/solid enough) that we can put a boat "on the hard" for the duration of low tide. One can then clean (and repaint) bottom; change zincs, etc.

The English language is something else, eh?

My original question concerned whether the balance of the Cal 29 (and the strength of its fin keel) was such that we can put her in the tidal grid (leaning against many fat fenders against wooden pilings) for a few hours. (Wouldn't want it to tip forward or backwards!) I was all set to do this when a friend, who is VERY knowledgeable about boats but doesn't know Cals, suggested we double check. (I know Catalina 27s can).

Yes, here in B.C. we definitely have tidal effects! Just to get out of Vancouver Harbour we have to check the current, as they are up to 4-5 knots.... Then there's the many passes (8-13 knot currents... even higher further north) in the islands where we have to time our arrival for slack tide.

Much as I love my Cal 29, I would not think of anything but coastal cruising (probably within 50 km of shore max) on her. (Although, not for LOA/LWL issues -- the Pardey's and others would disagree with 29' being "too small" -- provided it was a more seaworthy boat.)

I like your webpages! Sincerely, David Stapells, Vancouver, B.C., SV Lover's Moon

From: Michael Lehmkuhl ghz@mindspring.com ,To:go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 40- Pearson Renegade, Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 7:05 PM

Dan, Was looking over the information you have on your site re the Cal 40. Nice resource! Nice boat! I'd like to link to your page from my Pearson Renegade site and I'm asking you provide a return link when you get the chance. You will notice some interesting similarities between the Cal 40 and the 27 foot Renegade-- most of them below the waterline! I will also have to revise some of the text to pay appropriate homage to Lapworth. Thanks,

Mike Lehmkuhl, Renegade # 3, ATHENE, http://www.mindspring.com/~ghz

From: Paul Huelle pehs@elpn.com , Subject: Cal 25?? , Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 10:40 PM

Dan, Do you have anything on Cal 25? I am a graphic artist working on a project which requires pictorial information for Cal 25 and some other boats. Thanks. Paul Huelle

Dan, After cruising around in your extensive website I found the page on Cal 24/25. Do you have the the lines for the the 25 or are the lines of the Cal 24 similar? Thank you. Paul Huelle

From: Lawson Forrester lawsonf@america.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal Boats, Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:35 PM

I am glad to find this web page that you have dedicated to the Cal Boats. I own a 1973 Cal T-2, a 27'. It is in great sailing shape, perhaps due to sailing in the fresh water of Lake Lanier NE of Atlanta. I am in desperate need of a rub rail and would like your help. Please respond to me via e-mail if you have any suggestions. Thanks, Lawson Forrester

Editor's note~ Rub rails seem to be a real problem with old Cals. Check out the older Q&A sections right here on this site. There are several sources listed in my Q&A sections #1 and #2. None are cheap. Let me know if any of those old sources are still active. ~end editor's note.

From: Brian Cleverly anzam1@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: CAL brochures etc., Date: Sunday, December 26, 1999 1:41 AM

Hi Dan, I've just re-visited your web site (after a long absence) and see you are after further sales brochures etc.

As part of the extremely active CAL-LIST (Sailnet mailing list) I've setup a lot of stuff at: ftp://ftp.sailnet.com/lists/cal That you may be interested in, or may be able to link to. BTW, brochures are in the "sales-lit" folder.

Regards, Brian Cleverly

From: Lawson Forrester, lawsonf@america.net , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple, go2erie@mail.bright.net ,Subject: Sailboat-Cal T-2, Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 12:35 AM

Editor's note~ Here's some information that Lawson sent about the T-2. Lawson also sent a couple of nice photos. ~end editor's note.

Thanks for the quick response. Several years ago, I lost most of the specs on the boat, however it was designed to be a half ton racer. The hull is the same as the Cal 27(not 2-27) and draws 4' 6" and has a tall rig. The deck is flat from the mast to the bow and the interior is identical to the 27. I have attempted to attach a scanned picture of the boat with this e-mail.

When I bought the boat in 1976 it was in new condition with a 6 hp Evinrude outboard motor. I recently upgraded to a 15 hp motor. I raced the boat very hard for about 5 years from 1976 to 1981 with the major competition being the Morgan 27's and the tall rig Catalina 27's. I have a complete sail inventory consisting of a main sail, storm jib, 150 jenny, a 170 jenny and spinnaker. Presently I mostly cruise Lake Lanier single handed, which is easy with all the lines run back to the cockpit.

Lake Lanier is a large man made lake constructed back in 1952 by the corps of engineers for flood control and generation of electricity for Georgia Power. The shore line is close to 500 miles and nice for sailing. The majority of all large boats remain in the water year round. My boat has only been out of the water on two occasions for one week each time for bottom cleaning and repainting. I do use scuba gear and clean the bottom two or three times each year.

Stay in touch. Lawson Forrester

From: Bruce Fraser bruce@gs-strategy.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Loved your old cal site, Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 3:03 PM

Hey Dan: I live in Vancouver, and have cruised the gulf islands and other local waters here all my life. I just sold my beloved C & C 25, and bought a 1974 Cal 2-27 ("After Five"). I love the boat. She is stiff and strong, surprisingly quick, dry and safe in a blow, and there's enough room below to play volleyball (comapred to my C&C).

So I've been looking to find out more about her heritage, and there is surprisingly little on the net as I'm sure you are aware. This made your site a welcome find! Any way, I'm to pull her sails off for the winter right now, but keep up the good work. Also- I have an original copy of the sales brochure (for '75 2-27) in my possesion... Anyway, thanks for the info and merry christmas from the west coast. Cheers, Bruce Fraser

PS: I also enjoyed your reviews of other favourite boats/designs. Ilearned to sail on my father's Alberg 30, then sailed to Mexico and Tahiti aboard an Alberg 37, and owned a beautiful little Carl Alberg designed sloop called a Sea Sprite 23 before purchasing my C&C. Bruce Fraser

Editor's note~ I've heard of the Cal 2-27 "After Five". I can't think of where right now. You and I think the same about the Cal 2-27s. ~end editor's note.

From: Del Wiese dwiese@cfl.rr.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: CAL28, Date: Friday, December 24, 1999 10:29 AM

I have a 1968 CAL28 with an Atomic 4. I have the original owner's manual and a scanner. Would you be interested in receiving this information?

Editor's note~ Yes, I'm always interested in more information on Cal Yachts. I'm slow getting it posted but I never lose it and will get it in sometime, somehow. ~end editor's note.

I live in Florida and sail on the Indian River (a saltwater lagoon) with occassional trips to the Bahamas.

I owned a 1971 CAL25 for 18 years before buying the 28. The flush deck designs are super for Florida, we spend very little time down below so the limited head room is not a problem and the open deck space is great for racing or cruising.

Appreciate your web site. Have a Merry Christmas! Del Wiese

From: Bob Bailey bbbbailey@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 34 1 & Cal 34 2, Date: Sunday, December 26, 1999 3:19 AM

(Cal 34-1 & Cal 34-2) am looking for information and specifications on these well remembered boats from the early 1970's. Have you had any responses to your quiry.

Thank you, Bob Bailey, Pasadena CA

From: Peter W. Rapelje prapelje@optonline.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Post on Q&A, Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 10:02 PM

My Son has a 1984 Cal 31. It appears that the aluminum fuel tank under the port berth is leaking. Does anyone know of a replacement tank? Would it be practical to repair the tank using fiberglass & epoxy? Peter Rapelje, prapelje@optonline.net

Editor's note~ I hate to sound like a broken record and no, I do not work for Defender Marine Supply but they have several replacemant fuel tanks in their Marine Buyer's Guide 2000 (catalog). This catalog is free and can be obtained by calling their 800 number and requesting it. Their number is 800-628-8225. On page 180 they offer Tempo fuel tanks from 11 to 50 gallons, for permanent installation in various sizes and shapes. The prices for these tanks run from $79 to $175. (diesel tanks require an extra $20 fitting) They also offer on the same page, Todd Fuel Tanks in MORE capacities, shapes and sizes. These Todd tanks run from 9 to 55 gallons for about $114 to about $275.

I know people who have repaired fuel tanks with epoxy but that's not for me. Gasoline is too volatile and diesel fuel is too stinky (yuk) to take a chance on another leak. Sailors have enough dangers facing them to take a chance on a leaking fuel tank and possibly a fire. ~end editor's note.

From: Sonja Beardsley sbeardsley@ci.fairfax.va.us To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: 1981 CAL 35, Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 8:29 PM

Would like information on a 1981 CAL 35'. Boat looks to be in great shape. Was used as a club racer. Universal diesel. Any information, location of review, etc much appreciated.

From: Kurt.Langford@fluor.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 40's, Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 8:31 PM, I hope this attachment attaches.(See attached file: CAL40.doc)

Mr. Dalyrmple, Greetings from a fellow Cal 40/Bill Lapworth design fan. It’s nice to see that I am not the only one! If just finding your website (by searching for “Cal 40” and “Bill Lapworth”) isn’t enough testimony to my fanaticism, I offer as proof to the degree of my devotion the fact that I named my only daughter after a Cal 40, “Emily Ann.” I have to say that your pledge to “someday own one, God willing”, and your genuine nut-case enthusiasm for the 40 sends chills down my spine.

I grew up sailing in Southern California in the late ‘60’s and ‘70’s and had quite a bit of exposure the the old Cal boats. I mostly sailed aboard boats manufacturerd by others; Ericsons and Yankees, but was always in awe of the Cals - especially the 40’s. Later on I was the skipper of a sleek double-ended Calkins 50 “Dulcinea” that Jack Jensen’s ashes were skattered from (That was late 1980 or early 1981 - not “recently” as mentioned in your site). We used to weekend Dulcinea in the same island cove as crew-cutted Bill Lapworth who also weekended there in his Cal 3-30.

The first boat that I ever raced on was a Cal 30; hull number 58, “Gayle.” What a sweetie - except for the so-flat bow that would pound along to weather! I also crewed aboard the 40’s “Viva” (on the cover of “One Design & Offshore Yachtsman” 1968 or so), “Williwaw”, “Persephone” (hull number 1 - if you don’t count “Gypsy” - with her wood deck), and one of the last 40’s; “Lynla.”

The very last Cal 40, hull number 90-something, was commissioned right next to an Ericson that I was commissioning (painting the bottom on), and it was named “Golden City.” It was being shipped to South Africa. It was known at the time that “Golden City” would be the last 40. Jensen was breaking up the molds.

I must note that my “Cal-enthusiasm” is not quite as broadly spread as yours. I only hold the early, “first batch”, of Cals in such high esteem - and not even all of them. The 20, the first 30 (for it’s sweetness), the awesome 2-30, the 25 is nice, the original 36 (except for the rig - that fell down a lot), of course most of all the 40, maybe the grand 48, and prehaps the most practical design of all-time; the kinda-ugly 28 all fit into this batch (Jensen sailed a 28 to Tahiti!). The 29’s OK too. The 34 was always too much of a “tank” for me. Later on the original speedy 27 certainly got my attention (even without any headroom - I’m just not as fond of the later trunk cabin versions - they’re not the way the artist originally intended). The 33 was very handy for a One Tonner, and for some reason I’ve always liked the “attitude” look of the T-4 - even though I’m sure that it has the typical IOR hull shape problems. (The T-4 was not developed for the PHRF Quarter Ton Rule - whatever that was. The T-4 was designed to the MORC measurement rule, and to rate at the “Quarter Ton” level. The MORC rule was based on the awful IOR rule - but for boats under 30’ in length. Prior to that the measurement rule for <30’ boats was the MORF rule which was based on the old CCA measurement rule that the 40 did so well under.)

The hodge-podge of later Cal boats I thought didn’t have the straightforward, farmer practicality of this special group (I’d certainly take a nice 2-39 though). There were other Lapworth designs that weren’t made by Jensen Marine that did have this Lapworth magic though; Robin Lee Graham’s “Dove” (which was not a Cal 24 at all, ever - but was an “L-24”, or “Lapworth 24” - which had the same hull as the raised deck version which was called a “Gladiator 24.” The hull of these is not nearly the same as the lower freeboarded, flatter bottomed, centerboarded original Cal 24.) The movie “Dove” was shot using a Columbia 26 MkII. Robin actually completed about the last 20% of his voyage in a Bristol 34. I still have the three National Geographics covering the voyage of the Dove.

The old wooden Lapworth 36’s were cool (except for the hulls pulling apart at the bow), and a 30’ Lapworth designed race course arch-rival of ours; “Vixen”, which was destinctly Lapworthian. Don’t forget the two bow-spritted, plum bowed Lapworth 32’s that terrorized a few Transpacs (races to Hawaii) back then; “Spirit” (I think), and “l’sprit” - which was lost with all hands on the delivery back in 1968 or 70. There was a custom 44’ aft cabin sloop, “Nalu” that was very, very nice (aluminum I think). A surprise to your Lapworth eye might be the long-ended little 26’ “Endeavor” sloops that had several fiberglass builders including Schock. I had use of one for a couple of years and loved it. Bill also designed a 13’ open hulled cat-boat called a “Metcalf” that are still raced out of Balboa Yacht Club in Newport California. I had use of one of those as a youngster. It’s a mini Cal 40 with the dophin bow and that long v-run aft - only a lot tippier.

At home (I’m not there right now) I am writing a never-ending saga of my sailing days back then. It includes some Cal 40 praise-filled anecdotes and also a list from my memory of about 40 of the original Cal 40 names. I also list the “bobbed” 40’s - the shortened 37’ hulls that were either built that way or were later shortened (which was a sin). I don’t know if you were around back then, but these original Cal 40 ass-kickin’ racehorse names also give me chills. Seems to me that this list in it’s entirety would be worth compiling to some nuts like us. Let me know if you’d like me to e-mail it to you for accuritizing by others as well as additions to it. Seems to me that only the original names of these noble steeds should make the list however.

Thanks, what fun! And Thanks for the Cal 40 profile - it’s up in my cubicle now. Do you have a sailplan? Kurt Langford, kurt.langford@adpmarshall.com or klangford@dakotacom.net

P.S. - If you see an old, worn-out, blue hulled Yankee 30 (hull #1, sail #7966 “Independence”) that was last seen headed out Chesapeake way, give her a little pat on the transom for me - and let me know. We sailed a lot of miles together.

Also - I see you’re collecting old sailing magazines of sorts. If you ever come across any of the original “Lands End” catalogs, grab ‘em, they were so cool. They were only catalogs of sailboat hardware. Each year they’d have a photo spread of a different famous sailboat featured. I recall one year was the Gary Mull aluminum 50 footer “Dora IV”. Other years were Buddy Melges’ Olympic Soling “Teal”, and Charlie Morgans varnished 12 meter “Heritage.”

P.S.S. - I remember reading in Latitude 38 a couple of years ago that there was a book being written about the old “plastic fantastics” of the ‘60’s. Do you know anything about this?

Editor's note~ Yes Kurt, we agree on Cal 40s. Sorry that it took so long for me to post this email, it's just what we need in this Q&A section. ~end editor's note.

From: William H. Hutchinson whhutchi@redrose.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 2-27, Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:24 PM

Dan, I enjoyed your web site very much. I have owned a Cal 2-27 since new in 1976 and, while I would like to have a bigger boat for range and space, I know it won't likely be a significantly better boat, and certainly not for the price an aggravation. I am in need of replacing the spreaders for the second time. I replaced the original spruce with fir because it was available near me, but I have a lead on some clear spruce pieces this time. I have been told that towards the end of the life (Cal 2-27), aluminum spreaders were sold, though I'm not sure if that was with the 2-27 or the Mark III and if they are interchangeable. Do you have have knowledge of that or leads on stashes of parts for these boats? Thanks very much. Bill Hutchinson Hull # 235, Halcyon, Eastern Shore of Chesapeake Bay

From: Paul Huelle pehs@elpn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 25 lines, Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 2:06 PM

Dan, I found your website and have enjoyed perusing the material on your favorite yachts. I am a marine artist and am seeking material on the Cal 25 for an upcoming drawing. Do you have any knowledge concerning where I might find a copy of the lines for this boat? Sincerely, Paul Huelle, Yankee Clipper Art

From: Paul Huelle To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple Subject: Re: Cal 25 lines Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 4:52 PM

Dan and Karen Dalrymple wrote:

Hello Paul, Which Cal 25 were you wanting? There were several different designs. There was a later trunk cabin 25 with fin keel and spade rudder. There was an earlier 25 "flat top" design. Dan Dalrymple, editor of the website: http://www.bright.net/~go2erie/index.html This site contains my Old Cal Yacht pages, Herbal cure page, Muzzle Loading ballistics, my Family History page and more. Double click on the above url, you might like it.

Paul replies:

Dan and Karen, I am still trying to perfect the absurd - you mean, eventually, I have to do the impossible too! Should have guessed... Right now, I want the hull shape and sail plan for the "flat top" Cal 25. Did both Cal 25's share the same hull? Paul Huelle, Yankee Clipper Art

From: Bill Allen bna@smart.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 21, Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 10:37 PM

Dan, I have a cal 21 - #39 , # 39 if my memory serves me right. Have teaked the seats and passage way. Results were great. Have only had it out maybe 6 or 7 times and it seems to challenge nicely any boat near its size. I am interested in selling it (Cal 21) and wonder if you would know of any cal magazine or club where I could advertise it. also it would be fun to gather a little more info on the boat. Any links would be appreciated. thanks, bill allen

From: Janhall73@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 9.2, Date: Thursday, January 06, 2000 3:26 PM

I own a 1983 9.2R...

It is an excellent handling and very fast boat...mine has been modified by adding 300 hundred lbs to the keel.. (Holland designed in space for this) plus an iron foot was added to the keel for an adiitional 80 lbs. In addition to the weight, the rigging has been redesigned (with Holland's help) to attach to the bulkhead and the keel as the original design was only plated to the deck.

We also added 18 inches to the boom...it just clears the backstay! The boat has been competitive for 17 years and does well in PHRF cruising class. The modifacations extend the range of this boat from light air to 20 plus knots comfortably and she is super in to 18kts before you even have to think of reefing, I have singlehanded this boat in 18kts, no reef, with a 150 up and it was exciting and akin to riding a rocket.....

On the way down to winter storage my son in law and I sailed her from Marblehead, Ma to the Cape Cod Canal entrance (49 miles) in 7 hours with winds that ranged from 12 to 18kts from the ssw...we saw consistant 5.2 to 5.9 kts on the speedo all the way.

The 9.2 is a great up wind boat and performs equally well on all points of sail. Bob , hubradio@aol

From: Carl and Christine Beckstedt III cruzantime@worldnet.att.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 2-27 Rudder, Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 6:39 PM

Hi Dan. Great website! My wife and I used it extensively in buying our first big boat last September; a 1978 Cal 2-27. I was trying to get to your Q & A to ask a couple of questions but I couldn't find it. I hope you don't mind that I contacted you through your family history email link.

Unfortunately, our new boat was injured by Hurricane Lenny last November and the rudder bent (among other things) when it landed on the hard. Do you know: (1) how much a used rudder and "pipe" cost, and (2) where we could find one? I know where one is for sale, but I think the seller is asking way too much. But, at the same time, I'm not looking forward to making one. I just wanted to know what a fair price would be. Appreciate the help. Carl

PS How do we connect to your Q&A page? Thanks.

From: WGillikin@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 28, Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 3:32 PM

I am in the process of moving up from my '69 Cal 28 (sailed for 12 years) to an '82 Cal 39. Cal's are great boats.

I happen to have the Cal 28 Owner's Guide, a copy of the original 'California 28' sales brochure, and some digital pictures of my boat. I would be happy to provide you whatever you like.

From: Ken Davis kdavis@ticketweb.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 24s, Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 10:05 PM

Hiya, Just got skimmed your "Old Cal" web site (I will be returning to read further), and I had a quick question for ya; Can you direct me to a web site/organization that can tell me more about the 67' Cal 24 I just bought?

I have been told that there is a huge Cal 24 sailing community, but I have yet to find them. Thanks for anything you could throw my way. -Ken NaniDesuKa@aol.com

From: Darrell Hannon Beachcity@worldnet.att.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 27 Owners Manual, Date: Thursday, January 13, 2000 12:14 PM

I just purchased a 1971 Cal 27. Unfortunately it had no owners manual. Do you have any idea where I could get info on this? It has the pop-top and a Volvo Penta engine. My previous experience with sailboats was with a Lightning out of Rocky River. Thank you. Enjoy your site very much.

From: john montella john_montella@email.msn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: cal 25, Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 4:30 PM

hi, thanks for the info on the history of the cal boats. i have just bought a 1978 cal 25 mark2 and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction on how to obtain the spec sheets and any pertinent info on this model. thanks for your help, john

From: Austin Greer austingreer@yahoo.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Robin Graham, Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 2:38 AM

Dear Sir, I am trying to get in touch with Robin Lee Graham. I am a huge fan of his and I wanted to write him a letter. Do you have his address or do you know of anyone that has his address. Thanks For Your Help, Austin Greer Mobile AL. PS Please E-MAIL ME at: austingreer@yahoo.com

From: Dennis OMalley dennis.omalley@worldnet.att.net, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: your web page,Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 4:57 PM

Just wanted to let you know that your web page is great. On these cold winter days, it's nice to go "shopping"! Thanks again.

From: Sandy Freeman sandykf@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: sale and message board ? (Q&A sections: per editor) Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 12:58 PM

Hi Dan, Say I was looking through your site this morning and noticed that the link to your message and sale board was gone ?? I'm looking in the wrong place ? wouldn't be the first time :-)

There was a Cal 40 listed for sale that I'm very interested in talking to the owner about. I belive the boat is down in San Francisco. Thanks in advance for any help Have a great day, Sandy Freeman, sandykf@earthlink.net

The Q&A section has returned! per editor dsd

From: Ian Stephenson yachts@yachtsls.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 44, Date: Friday, January 21, 2000 10:08 AM

Nice web site: I am curious to know if you have any info on the Cal 44. It was built by Lear Seigler in the 80s, problably a second generation builder. Anything at all would be helpful. I understand they only built a couple of dozen. I was aboard one last fall in Windsor and would like to know more. If you need or want info about Whitby 42s or Alberg 37s, maybe I can reciprocate. Thanks for any and all help..Regards, Douglas Stephenson

From: Nick G. Tarlson ntarl@dictyon.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 20s, Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 6:08 PM

I enjoyed seeing your web site about the Cal sailboats. We have a fleet of Cal 20s here in the San Francisco Sea Scouts, also a Cal 27 and "Cal 25"...:-)

One suggestion on the 20s, Steve Seals makes parts and has a rigging guide on the web, in fact I was looking for it when I ran across your page. Would be a useful link to add to your Cal 20 page, I would think. Thanks again, Nick Tarlson

From: Bob bob@erienet.net , To: Dan Dalrymple go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Re: folding prop ??, Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 8:10 AM

Hey Dan. I'm from Lorain and have a 32 Bayfield. In board diesel. Should I consider a folding prop? Will it make that much difference? What about control backing? Right now it tends to drift to port. Thanks for your time. Bob Palinski. See you at the Islands!!!

My reply to Bob. That depends on what you want to gain the speed for. If you're racing phrf, the folding prop will give you more sailing speed for sure, but your phrf rating will also change. Now you HAVE to sail faster to make up for the different rating. Sometimes a person needs to think about this for a while.

If you just enjoy sailing faster, no doubt the folding prop is worth the expense. Bayfields are great boats but not exactly the "Tartan Ten" of the sailing world. The folding prop, however, will still give you more sailing speed. The folding prop will NOT help your reverse. It will make it worse (unless you go to a Max-Prop for about a grand$) The Max-prop will give you more power in reverse but will probably not help the pulling to the left at all.

From: DBoboc9556@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net ,Subject: Lapworth 24, Date: Monday, January 31, 2000 11:57 AM

Hello Dan, I just found your web site. I was very pleased to find some info on the old Cals, as the very first book I read about boating was The Dove by Robin Lee Graham.

I have some old Yachting magazines that have some ads about the old Lapworth 24. It said they were built by Continental plastics in California. I was wondering if you might have any sources for drawings or plans of the Lapworth 24; a few years ago I bought a set of lines drawings from bill Lapworth for the wooden prototype of the L-24, but I was really interested in finding something on the fiberglass production version. thanks, Dave Boboc

From: Bill Halderson halderson@whitelion.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Post on Q&A Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 12:16 PM

Hi. Does anyone know the book value of a 1981 Cal 31? Are there any for sale out there? Janice Halderson halderson@whitelion.net

Editor's note~ Take a look at http://www.yachtworld.com/boats . They have LOTS of Cals listed. GOOD place to look, good place to buy. ~end editor's note.

From: Jonas Larsen jonaslarsen@mediaone.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Sails for a '69 Cal 28, Date: Saturday, April 15, 2000 8:38 PM

I have a 1969 Cal 28 and I'm in need of a set of good used sails or cheap new sails, where should I go?

From: Lindsay Pannell lindsay-air@prodigy.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 6:09 AM

hey, how are you? just thought I would write to let you know that my father has an lapworth design cal jensen 24 around 62 or 63 he is very proud of. we're in the process of completly refitting the boat and are wanting to go back with the teak toerail just not real sure of the process or should i say the easiest process. if you could e-mail me back with tips on how to replace such things as the teak toerail etc. I would apprieciate it and so would my father . one more thing, i'm sure he would love a newsletter if you do something as such. he also has most if not all original documents and history of ownership and such on the boat that he would share or at least fax copys to you for your web page. I myself have just look a a boat called a kittywake 24 supposedly a alberg design do know of any info for my before I consider purchasing? anyway your reply would be greatly appreciated thanks. brandon pannell, e-mail lindsay-air@prodigy.net , little rock, ar 72211

Editor's note~ Sorry, Brandon, No newsletter yet. I'll post this in my Q&A section, maybe you guys'll get some help with that toerail. And yes, I'm familiar with the Kittywake 24 and it is an Alberg design. Great little boat. Good luck to you and your dad in restoring the Cal 24. You'll remember that project for the rest of your life. email me back and let me know how the project's coming along. ~end editor's note.

From: Johngnmb@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net,Subject: Your Cal web page, Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 8:39 PM

Dan, I tried to get to the Cal 29 page through your link several times and it loads 30% one time then 95% another time, but never seems to completely load the photos or line drawings (Drawings are the primary interest). Is there a problem with the site or me? The reason I'm interested is I'm looking at a Cal 29 and this is the only information I've been able to locate. Thanks in advance for any help. John Gajdos

From: To: Subject: Lapworth 24 Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 11:56 PM

Hello Dan, You may remember I sent you an e-mail a few days ago about the Lapworth 24; I had mentioned that I though it was built by Continental plastics. Here is an ad I scanned from the March 1963 issue of Yachting magazine. Dave Boboc

Editor's note~ Dave sent me a nice scanned brochure on the Lapworth 24, I can't post the scan here but here are the specs: LOA= 24' 0", LWL=20' 0", Beam= 7' 6", Draft= 4' 0", Displacement (unladen)= 4350 pounds, Ballast (lead)= 1650 pounds, Main 171 sq ft, Working jib 126 sq ft, Genoa 195 sq ft, Spinnaker 385 sq ft. Roller reefing, Self-bailing cockpit, inboard power, extruded aluminum spar with stainless steel rigging, bronze rudder shaft and bearings, sleeps four, wood cabinets, marine head, complete galley. ~end editor's note.

From: Jim/Kate Hauser/Hunter khunter@w-link.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 34 info?, Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 3:10 AM.

Hello, Just ran across your website on Cal sailboats. I agree with you on the Cal 40, but it's beyhond my budget. I've become intrigued with the Cal 34. Where on the web can I get some more information on one? Appreciate any ideas. Yours, Jim Hauser, Vashon Island, Washington

From: Chuck vanDe Wetering To: Subject: Congratulations on a nice page Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 12:16 PM

Enjoyed looking at your boat page. Good luck covering the Cals. I will try to add you as a link on my San Juan 23 webpage if you like. Chuck Vande Wetering, PO Box 2205, Friday Harbor, Wa 98250, wwp62@interisland.net http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/5493

".All I ask is...the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking..."

From: Chris Nihill cNihill@compuserve.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 33 Sailboats, Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 11:32 AM

Listed below is a discription of the Cal 33 built in 1972 that I own...

Cal 33 Designed by Bill Lapworth and built in the 70's by the now defunct Jensen Marine in Costa Mesa, CA. makers of the popular Cal 20. Designed as raiser & cruiser, the boat specifications are as follows: length OA 32'-6, length WL 27'-6, beam 10'-4, draft 6'-0, displacement 10,000, ballast 4,800 lbs. Lead, with sail are of 536 sp. Ft. (100% foretriangle), and a 30 gal. Fuel tank. Sails usually included Main, Genoa, Spinnaker and Spinnaker Staysail. The original engine was the Atomic Four. The boat offers a 6'-1 tall, spacious interior cabin full of mahogany and a full galley with a gimballed stove.

The narrow beam and deep draft gives this boat excellent sailing performance. Offshore draft is really appreciated. Many of these boats included option's such as: wheel steering, roller reefing, hot/cold pressure water, and shore power systems. With age, the things to watch out for are soft cabin roofs and leaking portholes. Original portholes were aluminum and susceptible to corrosion. Recommend replacing Atomic Fours with the Yanmar 30GMC and adding a holding tank. If you have a monel fuel tank, clean it out prior to switching to diesel. The boat if in good condition is an simple boat and excellent value if it has been upgraded. Chris Nihill, 516-922-2435

From: vasmith vasmith@peganet.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: CAL 35, Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:12 PM

Some time ago I sent you photos, specs, etc. on the CAL 35. Did you get them?? You may want to edit your spec sheet for the boat by adding 5" draft for some models of the Mark II version. Victor. vasmith@peganet.com

Editor's note~ Yes I got them, I still have them and am trying to get a page posted on the Cal 35. It WILL happen. Sorry that it hasn't happened already. ~end editor's note.

Hello, I've been looking all over the Web for a source on Cal sailboats, but haven't found anything about the 34 footer. I certainly hope you don't mind me e-mailing you, but you're the closest I've come to finding anything on Cals's. Do you know anyone or any sight that has the spec's on the Cal 34, 1977 model? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks for your time, Bob Holloway, Sunnyvale, CA

Bob, I have information on the different 34s. I still am trying to get a page posted on the Cal 34's. It WILL happen. Sorry that it hasn't happened already.

Editor's note~ Here are some rubrail questions from previous Q&A pages. These are older posts so the phone numbers and addresses may not be good any more. Let me know... ~end editor's note.

Here's another way to tackle this deteriorated rubrail problem. Replace the molded rubber rubrails with wooden rails. These wood rubrails are easy to make, very durable and they do look great. They can be made from most any durable wood such as white oak, black locust, or even wild cherry. If you really want to spend big bucks use teak. They can be one piece or can be laminated. Dan Dalrymple, editor, Old Cal Yachts homepage.

Reply #5. I found the addresses and phone numbers of a couple manufacturers that make rubber rubrails. Salisbury makes many types of extruded rubber products for marine use. They probably have the best selection of products. They may not have an exact replacement but they would be a good bet for something that resembles the original rubrails. Their address and phone numbers: Salisbury, 7520 Long Ave, Skokie, IL 60077, voice tel 867-679-6700, FAX 867-679-2401. Salisbury would be my #1 chioce for rubrails.

Wefco Rubber Manufacturing, 21000 Osborne St. #2, Conaga Park, CA 91304, voice tel 818-886-8872, FAX 818-886-8875. They list themselves as making a product called "Boat Gunnel" but I'm not sure that they make rubrails for boats. Dan Dalrymple, editor, Old Cal Yachts homepage.

Reply #6 . Subject: Re: Cal-29 rub rail Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 08:29:45 -0400 (EDT) From: "Warren P. Hitlin", wph@aps.org , To: go2erie@bright.net

I found some info at work (an old print-out of an email). The name I have is Rudy Nickerson at DNR Marine in Massachusettes. The phone number is (508)644-3001. This print-out is dated 11/22/95 so things may have changed. I probably can find the invoice at home if the above info has changed. The rub rail cost me about $200. They are also supposed to have a wharehouse full of old Cal parts! I hope this helps, if not let me know and I'll search for the invoice.. Warren

Reply #7 . Subject: Where to buy replacement rub rail Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:06:09 -0400 From: "Thomas C. Grant" tgrant@bellsouth.net , To: go2erie@bright.net

I am a newcommer to your webpage and was looking through the old questions/answers and came across several people that were looking for rubrail. I own a CAL31 and needed replacement rub rail. The following company has the rubrail and will ship it directly to you. D&R Marine, Inc / 31J Mill Street / P.O. Box 921 / Assonet, MA 02702 . Hope this helps those looking. Tom Grant

From: Paul Pollock, mondo@aloha.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 36, Date: Saturday, February 19, 2000 1:05 AM

Dan, I have enjoyed your site very much. There does not seem to be a lot of information on Cal boats on the net and your site stands out.

I am building a site for Pikake, a Cal 36 I purchased a few months ago. The address is : http://www.aloha.net/~mondo/ , I hope to document info on the 36 as well as show my progress to restore Pikake. I wanted to ask if: 1) you have any information on Cal 36s, and 2) can I add your site to my links page. Any information you may have is appreciated. Best regards, Paul Andrew Pollock, Kailua, Hawaii,

Editors reply: Sorry Paul but I have nothing on the Cal 36 and to answer your second question, SURE! anyone that wants to add a link for my site into their site, has my permission! The more, the merrier...

From: Janhall73@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 9.2R, Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 3:19 PM

I sent you an e-mail concerning the 9.2r.... I own an much modified '83 Cal 9.2R...it is still competitive in club racing and 8-10 years ago the boat was very competitive...winning the Marblehead-Halifax...Block Island races, etc.

Cal didn't follow all of Holland's recomendations, they shortened the boom, lessened the ballast and several other design shortcuts... my boats former owner contacted Holland and brought the boat up to spec...vast improvement.

The 9.2R handles much like a J-24, quick, responsive and a bit touchy at first...a friend of mine has a Catalina 30 tall rig....and the difference between the two boats is like comparing a Porsche to a SUV! RJ Van Klootwyk, Boston, Ma

From: Carole Danek caroltim@leading.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 30 owner, Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:39 PM

We are refurbishing and are looking for any information about the 1966 Cal 30, hull number 75. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Contact or pass along any information to Tim , caroltim@leading.net

From: TAdams5535@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 9:31 PM

Hi my name is Tom Adams and I have just purchased a cal 2-27 hull number 100. I was looking for a boat for my wife and I and partly due to your web site and all the information about cals that you offered I decided to buy one. I just happen to get lucky and found one when it was for sale. I will be sailing it around the eastern part of Lake Ontario and Henderson harbor area. Thanks for all the info on your site. I will let you know how she handles after I spend a few hours at the helm. Thanks again.

Editor's reply to Tom~ Tom, I'm sure that you will enjoy your new boat. My 2-27 was manufactured VERY close to yours. Mine's a '74. Your 2-27 might be the first one that Jensen made since they usually started numbering with a 3 digit number instead of starting with #1. What engine do you have in your Cal? Dan Dalrymple ~end editor's reply.

From: TAdams5535@aol.com , To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: Re: cal 2-27, Date: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:59 PM.

Hello again. Thanks for the reply. I know the hull number is 100 but it would be really neat to find out that it was actually the first one built. It is a 1974 and it has the Volvo Penta MD-10A as it auxiliary. I also have the original owners manual with the California address on it. It looks as thought the boat was bought in Conn., or delivered there at first and it might have spent some time in the Michigan area according to some of the papers in the portfolio that came with the boat. Hope to talk to you soon, Tom Adams

From: PJudd@jerryleigh.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 28, Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 8:08 PM.

I am searching the web for specs on a Cal 28'. I keep running into your listing on the web but can't get any other information. Do you know what the specs are? Thank you very much for any information you can give. I'm specifically interested in space below deck. Does it have a bed area below the cockpit? Can it sleep 2 couples comfortably? Patty, PJUDD@JERRYLEIGH.COM

From: HughO45166@aol.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 48, Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 8:48 PM

I'm a cal lover from way back and when it came time to unload my wetsnail I knew the next one would be a Cal. The 40's seemed too small for our family but I found a sad Cal 48 in Tampa and brought it back to Pocatello Idaho where I've been hard at it for the last 2 yrs or so. What info can i offer you? what's with 2mg web site? Get a new ISP! You may not have room for the 48 info but it is clearly the most beautuful CAL. You;re doing such a great job pulling all this together so We appreciate it. I talked to Bill Lapworth and that is his opinion so I'm glad he aggrees with me!!! How can I help you?. Try hughowens@yahoo.com. Thanks Hugh owens. Owner of Cal 48#11, KOHO

From: Kevin and Nancy Moore, knmragdoll@snowcrest.net , To: Dan Dalrymple, go2erie@bright.net, Subject: OUR CAL-25 1965 #52, Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 9:10 PM

Dan, My wife and I truly appreciate the effort you have put into your website. It is nice to find another who appreciates the old Cals as we do. We got RAGDOLL 8yrs ago, totally gutted her and basically stated from scratch. What a learning experience!!! My wife was joking one day saying "wouldnt' a tie-dye sail be cool?!" quite conservitive I said "No!!! sails are WHITE!" but as you can see... it is COOL!! Yes hand tie-dyed to my design, we get quite a few lookie loos from the rest of the boating community.

She got a new West System epoxy bottom last year, original had very few blisters. We are in Whiskeytown lake near Redding CA at the time but look forward to taking her to the bay , S.F., then down to So. CA the Channel Is. for a little scuba diving and bigger water. I have worked on many different makes of fiberglass boats doing bottom repair and glasswork, I am ever more impressed with the Cals durability and just being a tuff well built, great sailing vessel.Thanks again for a great web page, sincerely, Kevin and Nancy Moore

Editor's note~ Kevin and Nancy fowarded a photo of their Cal with the tie-dyed sail. Looks great! ~end editor's note.

From: Jim Stephens, fr8tr8@attglobal.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal36, Date: Friday, March 10, 2000 7:55 PM

Hello, I'm Jim Stephens, thanks for your informative Cal site. I just purchased a Cal 36 and will be sailing her on lake Erie. Any 36' info you have would be helpful. Any documentation i receive i will gladly share with your web site as well. Sincerely, Jim Stephens

From: J.N. , Sailoside@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: 30 CAL, Date: Monday, March 13, 2000 2:36 PM

HELP! Hi, I have a 30' cal, 1965, manufactured by Jensen marine. This boat has a full keel with barn door rudder, atomic 4, but otherwise classic cal/Lapworth designs. I have had this boat for a few years but could not find a true history about her. It originally had bright yellow gelcoat, raced about Texas and the Bahamas from 1965 through the 70's.

I do want to find the original owner and complete history of this boat, and the development of the Cal 30. There seems to be very little information about this size and model boat. Can you offer any information or avenue to the information I need?

These boats are very comfortable and fast, I can out perform most boats, up to 38' even with longer water lines and 50% more sail area. I refurbished her last year with all new wiring, r&r atomic 4, inverter, muli-battery banks, and so on. Although completely refurbished, it remains as stock looking as posable, thus I am able to register it in Fla. as an antique vessel. Thank you for your time and help. J.NeJame

From: Todd Mestrez, tmestrez@nwonline.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 39, Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:45 PM.

just wanted to drop a note saying that I love this site.... we have a Cal 39, 1971 that we race/cruise out of Sandusky Ohio, check this site when you get a chance. . http://members.xoom.com/knotaclew/ ,

From: Gerard L. Field, field.av@erols.com , To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: cal 2-227, Date: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 5:21 PM

april 19, 2000, Dan, Please advise me on the following if you can: The hoses that goes from the cockpit drains (Cal 2-27) to the exits on the lower transom are over three feet long and snake around the hull floor. Should they be this long? should,(can) they go direct without water backing up into the cockpit? Should there be some dip in the hoses like the plumbing under a sink in a house?

I am trying to get a traveler on the transom top. This requires a compound curve of the track: about 3 inches horizontally and about 3 inches vertically as the transom curves fore and aft and up and down. Is there anyone who has the drawings and the know-how to make me a traveler track? The local riggers go glassy eyed when they see the job, Harken says they will bend the track for me if I send them the track and a template of the shape. Maybe a cal 2-227 owner you knowabout has a track like that and lead me to where I can get one. Thanks. regards, Gerard L. Field From: Dan and Karen Dalrymple To: Gerard L. Field Subject: Re: cal 2-27 traveler Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 7:00 PM

Editor's reply~ Gerard, Again, about the cockpit drain hoses, I was just looked on my boat 2-27 and they neatly go from the cockpit drains, thru a 90 degree bend and directly out the transom. No long snake, no loop. Each one is only about a foot long. Water has never come up into my cockpit. A word of caution. My drain tubes are of a corrigated style that cannot be terminated, only in certain places. Maybe this is the reason that your's are so long.

I CAN help you with your traveler. For what it's worth, I unbolted my transom mounted traveler in order to repair a crack in the glass under it. Even though the traveler was bent in two directions, as soon as it was unbolted from the transom, it became a straight piece. I can't tell you the brand name but it was probably original Jensen Marine installed equipment. I couldn't believe that after 23 years of being bent, that it became as straight as a ruler when it was unbolted. I marked it on the bottom so that I could install it exactly as original, not to bend it opposite for the next 23 years. ~end editor's reply.

From: Gerard L. Field, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Friday, April 21, 2000 10:41 AM

dan, thanks for your reply.

i see that the drain hoses are corrogated but have straight ends to fit onto the through-hull fitting.

the traveler track i bought is the latest harken stuff and i will probably have to have it bent to fit. i will have to make a template showing the length of the track and the max chord, vertically and horizontally.

incidentally, i have the original owners manual, such as it is, for this boat. if you want a copy, send me an address and i will send you one. sincerely, gerard field

From: Best, Thomas , Thomas.Best@puc.state.tx.us , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 20, Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 5:57 PM

Any idea how much torque to apply to a Cal 20 keel bolt? I bought new ones from Steve Seal and he doesn't know. Also, is 5200 an appropriate material for the seal between keel and hull? Thanks in advance, Tom

Editor's note --> About the torque, I don't know either but there are charts that give torque settings on bolts in general, just choose the metal type and size. About the 5200, I've used it under the waterline with NO problems. I think it is EXACTLY what you need to bed your keel. Great stuff, that 3M 5200. <-- end note.

From: finbeven, finbeven@email.msn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 40's, Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 8:27 PM

Editor's note~ This was a lengthy email but VERY interesting. See my comments at bottom of this email. ~end editor's note.

To: Dan Dalyrmple, Dan...As you can see from the following, I am something of a Cal 40 fanatic. One of the other owners created the spec. list. I just filled in the blanks.

SPECS and OWNER DATA, 1965 Cal 40 "Radiant", Owner Name: Fin Beven, Owner E-mail: finbeven@MSN.com , Other Owner Info for Contact (Optional ) Fin Beven, 77 N. Oak Knoll, Pasadena, CA

Interesting Data, BOAT DATA, Boat Name: Radiant Sail #7124, Year 1965, Hull Number 24, Previous Names: Holiday Too, Previous Owers: Bob Allen, Ken Croan . I bought the boat in 1980.

History Races /Results: Skip & Scott Allen won Transpac in '67; They won several class championships, as did Ken Croan. We've won twice, and still hunting for #3. The boat won the Congressional Cup when sailed by Scott Allen in '67, Skip Allen in '68, Dick Deaver in '76, and Ted Turner in '77. \(I did the bow in '68 and '76).

History Cruising /Destinations: Original Delivery Port : Newport Beach, CA, Boat Now Laying: Los Angeles Harbor, Los Angeles Yacht Club, PHRF Rating - 111 LA Harbor. Base rating is 114.

Other Interesting Data: In 1983 the boat was stripped of all exterior hardware, teak trim, portholes, mast & rig and trucked to Dennis Choat's (Dencho) shipyard in Long Beach. Distressed non-skid was ground off, boot-stripe was re-drawn as straight-and level, topsides were faired and painted with LP, and new non-skid was applied in the "stock" pattern. (we have re-LP'd twice since then)

BOAT STATUS If Modified or Repaired or Known Weakness, Please Describe, No structural modifications.

RIGGING: Mast: Replaced as stock following dismasting in 1969., Mast Tune: Currently plumb, as far forward as possible at the partners. All halyards are internal (an easy modification which I did the first year we had the boat).

Spreaders: Aluminum. (I was nearly dismasted on a San Francisco Cal 40 in 1969 when the leeward spreader broke at the bolt-line that holds it to the spreader bracket).

Standing Rigging: All rod (I was replacing anyway, it's easy to clean, and shines like crazy. Very "Radiant". As with many of our local racers, the forward lowers have been removed. I recently removed the tangs as well (obvious toe-stubbers, and unattractive) My plan is to move the upper terminal for the standard lower to the forward hole at the spreader bracket, leaving the aft hole for runners or lazy-jacks, depending.

Running Rigging: Wire/dacron main halyard & dacron headsail and spinnaker halyards for cruising, mostly Spectra for racing (minimal stretch and it doesn't absorb water). The "good stuff" (even the main-sheet) is always put away after races, so it should last a long time). > Mast Winches: Nearly standard, mast mounted. Spinlock flat-mounted jammers for spinnaker halyard and topping lift. And old Shaeffer jammer and ball-swedge for the main halyard. Because most of our racing is short-course, windward-leeward, so we generally run with just one genoa and one spinnaker halyard.

Boom: We replaced the old roller-reefing boom with a new one by Sparcraft in 1985. We had "ears" welded on the mast to accept the boom and vang attachments. Main-sheet runs internal, as does the outhaul, reef, and flattening reef.

Spinnaker Pole: We use a 3" alum. pole, set up for dip-pole jibes. It's too small for ocean racing, but OK for our short leeward legs and at 18 pounds, the foredeck is happy..

Main Sheet: Stock 4:1 to a self-tailing Barient 18 mounted on the cabin-top, out-board of the main hatch slide. Traveler is a continuous line to an Antall "box" (a continuous line winch) that is mounted on the aft side of the cabin, just out-board and to port of the main hatch-way. It is operated by a standard winch-handle. Lots of leverage, easy to shift in the tacks, but you can't "pump the main" with it. We have the solid Hall-Spars vang to provide constant leach tension, and its a very neat installation with all lines running below-deck. The roller-bearing traveler is mounted on the forward edge of the stern seat. This permits a full cushion across the back, and the main-sheet doesn't interfere with using (sunning) on that seat when we're reaching home from a weekend at Catalina.

Vang: Hall Spars

Running Backs: none, as yet.

Backstay: Navtech Hydraulic...Works fine. We seem to be faster with less pressure. 1200# at 10 kts TWS, Roller Furling: No. It seems like you need more headsail selection for efficient sailing, racing or cruising. Besides, I've still got two kids who'll help me fold sails. We have a double-groove head-foil and capacity for dual genoa halyards.

Cutter Rig: Years ago I re-cut an old 200% genoa into a Jib-Top and a staysail out of an old light 150. The staysail was flown off of the topping lift. It seemed pretty fast, but only worth the effort on an ocean race. I consigned it to the re-sale loft several years ago. I'd replace it with quality sails if we ever start ocean racing.

Chain Plates, Stock, (forward-lower tangs removed as indicated above).

STRUCTURAL- DECK HULL COMPONENTS: Beam (Steel) Looks OK, except for some rust on the tab in the head from head over-spray. I coated the tab with rubberized caulking. Rudder: Stock, but we had quite a bit of horizontal and vertical "play" at the rudder shaft. I replaced the spacer-rings under the rudder head with teflon rings, and the guys at Cabrillo Boat yard shimmed the rudder shaft. I think that they used a mixture of graphite and resin, though I not clear about the process, though I think that they essentially plugged the bottom with the rudder and greased-up shaft in place, and then poured in the resin mixture from the top. Note: I and several others are in the process of buying a new rudder designed by Carl Schumacher. Slightly narrower, slightly deeper, elliptical, more balanced. Hatches: Stock , but all have been re-built a time or two. Dorade Box: We have solar powered Nico-Marine mushrooms near the mast and in the stern hatch cover Decking: Minor spider webbing filled and refinished, replaced nonskid surface. Deck Hull Joint: Teak was removed, joint was pried apart where practical, and seam re-caulked with something similar to 5200. Bulkheads: OK Bulkhead tabbing: OK Decking Plywood: OK Hull: After years of basically ignoring the 100 or so blisters that we had, and with the possibility that the hull had never been stripped, we went down to bare glass and fixed the blisters 3 years ago. Topsides: Sterling. Keel: Same as hull, Tiller: Just being replaced with laminated teak, as the old one was de-laminating at back end. The tip of the new tiller will be faired into a horizontal "T", just wide enough to support the female plug-fitting for the removable tiller extension. Tiller Bracket (the casting that holds it to the rudder-head) Significant cracks just forward of the bolt that holds it to the rudder head. I just had a new SS bracket welded.

Life Lines: Double life-lines, gate with fore-and-aft support struts at center of boat, each side. Easiest location for boarding, rafting, and it keeps the wet swimmers out of the cockpit. Swim Ladder: I had a custom ladder built. Stainless tubes with teak treads. It does not fold, so the bottom steps don't rock up. And, the bottom two steps are just the stainless tubes (no teak treads), so waves and current can roll through without causing the ladder to slam against the hull. It stores easily in the "junk bunk" (stbd. side torpedo berth). Toe Rail: Stock Teak, but I couldn't stop the fastener-bleeding problem, so I replaced it 3 years ago. Port lights: replaced with Go-Marine, Portholes : replaced with Lewmar, Headliner None, Penetrating bolts screws have "sex-nuts" (basically, a threaded barrel with a screw-head) flush to headliner to help protect scalps and look good. It's been faired and painted with LP, as has the rest of the interior painted surfaces. Gel Coat: LP, Sterling. Through Hulls: Mostly Marlon (Forespar "plastic")

Other Info. COMPARTMENTS / STATIONS: Stair/Engine Box: Small mahogany box, formica top, Stainless steel ladder with teak treads. Anchor Locker Stock. Ice Box: Stock box, Norcold 12V. refrigeration, liquid-foam insulation on all sides and under. Closed-cell foam on lid and under counter. Head: Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper. Robust, but uses a lot of water. Pumps into a custom-fitted 20 gal. stainless holding tank in lower portion of the hanging locker. Drawers: Stock. V Berth: Major rebuild. The original owners had removed the port-side cabinet before the '67 Transpac. I cut out most of the shelf on each side, leaving a 2" wide flange. I then built non-storage partitions on each side, wider aft, to re-shape the bed space into more of a rectangle. I raised the level of the berth approx. 4'. Because the boat gets wider as it goes up, this increased the width of the berth at the forward end (and it increased the storage under the bunk). I extended the length of the bunk approx. 6" down the center. This still left room to stand in the forward cabin area, and the raised height of the berth makes entry and exit through the hatch somewhat easier. This arrangement left space for a small seats port and starboard with storage under. With the 4" firm mattress it's a comfortable bed. We sleep with our heads forward where the bulkhead separating it from the anchor locker works like a head-board, and each side has a halogen reading light. Galley: Stock. Sole: Stock. Stern Lazarette: Essentially stock with wooden hangers installed for rope storage. In the area that is under the aft seat of the cockpit I have installed a "well" to hold two 1.2 gal. alum. propane tanks. Access to this "well" is through a round, gasketed port cut in the seat. All of my engine gauges are mounted in the aft wall of the cockpit...you can actually see them from the driving position. I only wish that I could have them read out through my Signet "Smart Pack" instruments, but more on that later. Because of our small engine box, we just have a fixed window where the original instrument panel used to be. Hanging Locker: As mentioned above, s/s holding tank just below the lip of the locker door. Above that are two shelves, one at about the level of the lip, and on half-way between there and the deck. I'm something of a nut about things being put away, so when we have guests aboard, the can keep their sea-bags and other gear on these shelves.

Chart Desk: Stock configuration on ice-box surface. In forward ½ of outboard storage we have 2 shelves for glasses and coffee mugs. Slots have been cut in the aft ½ to hold the most-often-used liquor bottles. Sliding plexiglass hides it all. The aft wall has the Cruising Equipment battery monitor, the Garmin GPS plotter, stereo, permanently mounted cell phone, and VHF.

Torpedo Berths: Starboard: most of the excess woodwork for the old engine housing has been removed, leaving a very clean, clear area aft. Just inside the berth area is my circuit breaker panel (AC and DC). The panel is fastened to the fore-and-aft bin-divider at the bottom, and to the inside of the cockpit molding at the top. The panel is about 18" wide, running fore-and-aft. Mounted to the inside of the bin-divider are the battery charger, the refrig. compressor, the amps for the stereo, and the "brain" for the cell-phone. The CD changer is mounted under the deck. We never sleep in this bunk (which we refer to as the "junk-bunk"). It has no cushion, but is covered with indoor-outdoor carpet. Port: The bin-divider has been removed and the outboard portion filled in to create a near-double bunk. The aft portion of the bunk wraps around the back side of the engine box to further widen the bunk. (Obviously, the fuel tank is no longer here. It's in the bilge). Slide-Out berths: Stock. Pilot Berth: Stock.

INSTRUMENTATION : NEXUS. We have three "jumbos" mounted on the aft side of the mast, just below the goose-neck. Their wires lead into the mast and down to a junction box in the head, then aft to the "brain-box". The GPS is integrated into this so that I can get all speed/wind/nav information from these on-deck presentations. The numbers are big enough to be easily readable from the back of the boat, so anyone standing aft of the mast can see them. And rarely is anyone standing or sitting in front of them.

AUXILLARY POWER: Engine: Grey Marine 4 banger, flat head, gas. Engine Controls: Morse removable-handle shifter on starboard side of cockpint well; push-pull cable for throttle control mounted at forward left corner of cockpit well. Transmission "V" Drive Standard Propeller Martec Folding, Two blade.

TANKAGE: Fuel Tank: Fuel Tank, Aluminum, 35 gallon in bilge. Fills through a long, 1" hose from starboard deck just aft of the cabin, and then leads down just behind the engine and through the port-side engine mount and down into the bilge to the tank. The aft edge of the tank is about 1' forward of the aft edge of the lead. Two 4D gel batteries sit (one on top of the other) on that remaining 1', and are cantalevered over the bilge, supported by a ¼" piece of "G-10" (factory formed fiberglass) cut to the shape of the bilge, and supported at the back end by a s/s wire up to the cabin sole. The fuel tank has a 1" dip-stick access port. It's cap is just barely above the hole cut for it in the cabin-sole and the carpet. To verify fuel level we just remove the cap and "stick" the tank with a ¼" dowel. Water Tank: 16 gallon s/s tanks under each slide-out bunk. These are pressure-fed from a female hose fitting in the cockpit and vented back to the same area. When both vents start to "spit", the tanks are full. These tanks feed the galley elect. pump. 20 gallon bladder in head cabinet which feeds the electrical pump for the head faucet and the deck-shower (a 3" x 14' ABS tube, fresh pressure water into the aft end, a 6' hose and shut-off sprinkler-head at the forward end). This set-up produces plenty of warm, fresh water for a quick rinse-off after the day's swimming. Holding Tank: 20 gal s/s tank with float-monitor in bottom of hanging locker. There is just enough room to run a 1 ½" hose under the "bridge" that supports the mast. And while I'm in the area, we used to get trapped water under the mast, in that "well" you can reach from under the head. While the bilge-fuel tank was out, all I had to do was drill a few holes in the block of wood they put in there during construction. Now it drains just fine.

ELECTRICAL: Charging: Engine Driven: 100 amp alternator controlled by a Cruising Equipment Co. "Amp Hour + 2" voltage regulator/battery monitor. Shore charging: Newmar 15 amp. charger. Battery System: 2 @ 4D Gel's (180 amp hour each) mounted in the bilge as discussed above. Because we have an easy-to-start gas engine, because we are a sail boat, and (worst case) because we have a "Vessel Assist" program, I am inclined to use both batteries (Set on "ALL") most of the time. I watch the voltage rather closely over the days on-board, and when it gets down below 12V, we charge, and get the efficiency of charging relatively low batteries. Generally, we can go for 2 days easily without charging, and while running 12V refrigeration, stereo, lights, etc. DC Distribution: 3 Marinetics sub-panels with six breakers on each panel. Interior Lighting: Incandescent "dome" style s/s fixtures, one on the overhead just aft of the mast (I ran its power source up through the mast and out), one under the cockpit bridgedeck, and one on each aft wall of the forward cabin for general illumination. Each bunk has an elegant ABI (1806CH-D) chrome reading lamp (20 watt halogen with dimmer). I have Aqua Signal florescents in the galley, but may change these for something with a little more light. They work OK but I really don't like the florescent color, and we have plenty of battery to support the lighting we do. AC Electrical System: Shore power circuited through a Marinetics AC panel with double-pole master breaker, polarity indicator, and 4 sub-breakers. It then powers the AC/DV refrigeration, the 115V outlets, the Newmar charger. Bonding: the engine and electrical panels are bonded to the one bronze through-hull for the lower port cockpit drain.

GOFAST AND MISC: Sails: All by North. Relatively flat dacron main with Kevlar at head and clew per local class limitations. Mylar 155 (weighs 35# per local class limitations). .6 Poly primary chute. .5, .75, and 1.5 Nylon back-ups. Kevlar-Mylar #2 (140%)and works great in 16 Kts+ TWS. New, and hardly used yet is a 7 oz Dacron, full-hoist "blade", which is sheeted to the middle of the deck, just aft of the mast. I think that this will be the perfect sail for 20 kts+. TWS. However, you can only sheet such a sail if you remove the forward lowers. We have a full set of cruising sails, so we wash and fold the "good stuff" after racing (we even fold the spinnakers) so they last a long time. We also have an over-sized genaker (3' wider and 3' taller than a standard 180% spinnaker). The genaker shape gives almost effortless steering on a 15 kt. TWS beam reach, and is VERY fast and VERY fun. So far, we've used it just for cruising. We fly it either off the regular pole, set low (about boom level) and we've also experimented with a "sprit" (a spinnaker pole fastened at the aft end to a heavy s/s Shaeffer pad-eye mounted to the forward starboard corner of the cabin house, and extended through the pulpit, and held down to the bow-eyes). I bent one pole doing this, even though I had reinforced it. So the concept either needs more money or more engineering, or both. Winches: the original Barient 28's as primaries (for genoa and afterguys), moved to the forward end of the winch island (they are aft in some boats which made sense in 1967 when the boats sailed with 180% genoas under the old CCA rule). Barient 25's for the spinnaker sheets, self-tailing 18 for the main, lead to the port-side cabin top. Split fore-guy: runs from a single block at the end of the pole, then down to twin blocks in the middle of the foredeck, then out-board of each stanchion back to a small Harken turning block on the deck just inside of the rail, and opposite the middle of the winch-island on each side. It then enters the winch island and secures to a jammer mounted to the inside top, just inside the teak lip. Stainless (s/s) rub-bar on the teak to protect it. With this, the person who is adjusting the afterguy can also adjust the foreguy, or it can as easily be adjusted from the other side. And because most of the foreguy path is out by the rail in the "gutter", there is rarely a "butt-cleat" problem. Generally, all deck blocks and jammers are from Harken.

Computers & Software: None.

Auto pilot: Navico, seems to work OK.

Sail Track Movement: by "screw-pin". I've considered a roller-bearing set-up, but since our racing is against other Cal-40's that also have the same set-up, I'm not sure how much relative advantage this would offer. Besides, I like the look of my polished s/s track.

Faring the keel and bottom. Yes. Heating: none. Refrigeration: Norcold, mounted in the forward-outboard corner of the box. Works great. Generally, we just take ice-cubes for cocktails when we cruise for 3-4 days.

Fire Protection: Automatic Halon system in engine compartment, Other fire extinguishers in the hanging locker, the port torpedo bunk, and under the deck just forward of the aft hatch..

Cal 40 Strategies: Beat the Eddys (Callisto, #50), and hope that Jack Woodhull (Persephone, #1) doesn't show up. In windward-leeward races, a few more bodies on the rail are fast (in L.A., at least, where we have a fairly consistent 15 kt. afternoon westerly). The basics: get the weight out of the ends, reduce weight where possible, gear break-downs are the skipper's fault, smooth bottom, good sails (with good spreader patches and spreader boots), consistent crew and practice with them, conservative tactics. Concentrate on target boat-speeds. It's easy to sail the boats either too high (and slow) after a tack, or too "hot" once you're up to speed. Know your tacking and jibing angles.

Creative Ideas: In '77 I co-skippered a 40 in the Transpac. Crew of 6. We had three relatively good drivers, so we split into three watches of 2 each, three hours on and six off. I am totally sold on the results. We were better rested, we never hesitated to get everybody up for a sail change, and we squeeked out a corrected time win by less than 1 minute after 12 days of sailing!

Editor's comments~ A 1965 Cal 40 designed by Bill Lapworth, built by Jensen Marine. RACED HARD, 35 years old, TWO time Transpac winner, Congressional Cup winner, and NO BASIC STRUCTURAL CHANGES or MODIFICATIONS! Dismasted in 1969 and (quote) " Mast: Replaced as stock following dismasting in 1969. " (unquote).

35 years of maximum sailing with no basic structural changes! That does about say it all... "Radiant", 35 years young, NO roller furling, NO wheel, still uses a tiller. Still running the original Gray Marine, gasoline, 4 banger. Basically not much more than high grade general maintenance for 35 years and she's STILL looking for that 3rd Transpac win. Did Lapworth and Jensen build a solid boat? or WHAT?

Good luck to you, Radiant. I hope that you win a couple more Transpacs in the NEXT 35 years. Someday, God willing, I'm gonna own a Cal 40. dsd ~end editor's comments.

From: Alan Aderem, aaderem@u.washington.edu ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: querie regarding Cal 2-29, Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:53 AM

Dear Dan, I wonder whether you can help out. I have a 1976 Cal 2-29 and I am trying to locate a rub rail for it. I know someone from the old Cal factory is manufacturing and selling them since this was advertised in a Cal 2-29 web site that is now defunct. Do you have any ideas as to how I might proceed. Many thanks, Alan Aderem

Editor's note~ Alan, that defunct website is probably this one right here! Sorry about that... These Q&A pages were removed for about 9 months. Anyhow, check back thru these pages for a supplier for Cal rubrail. Let me know if and where you find them, Thanks. ~end editor's note.

From: Skolnick, Robert RSkolnick@universalaccess.net, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal Q&A, Date: Monday, February 21, 2000 10:49 AM.

hi, i have a cal 28 that was built in 1965 by lapworth . i am going to host a cal page with no limit as to size. i would like to put your Q&A on my web site. if you zip and email them to me i put your website on my server for free with no limits in exchange. the web will be up by march 26. also you had a Q&A on rub rails for the cal that had the name of a marina in the Boston area.

i am restoring my 28 and need the rub rails. thank you, Robert Skolnick, email rskol@bellsouth.net or rskolnick@universalaccess.net , if you would like to see a website that i have done go to http://www.universalaccess.net

Editor's note~ I gave Robert permission to use these Q&A pages, zipped them up back in February and emailed them to Robert. I haven't heard any more from him. If anyone finds his Cal website, let me know. Thanks, dsd ~end editor's note.

From: Gerard L. Field field.av@erols.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:17 PM.

Dan, I recently bought a cal 2-27, number CABCO 534. It is one of the few built without an inboard engine and it has a 10 hp Honda on the back. I intend to get back into racing as this boat seems to point high and go fast. This boat has almost no race equipment except a spinnaker track on the mast. The genoa tracks are on the toe rail and much too far out for anything.

I could use from you, if you have it, the following data:

• 1) the rig seems higher than the specs I have found: the mast seems closer to 36.5 feet from the deck. The hoist on the foretriangle, between shacles upper and lower is like 36.5 or 37 feet. Can you help me on this? Was there a short and tall rig available at that time?
• 2) The E is 12 feet on one spec, 10.3 feet on another, 10.25 feet on anothe, and 10feet 8 inches on another. Can you tell me the official ditance from the back of the mast to the black band?
• 3) The P is variously 30' 10", 30.83 feet, 30' 8". Can you tell me the official distance between the black bands on the mast?
• 4) Can you supply me with a deck layout drawing?
• 5) Can you, or do you know someone, racing a 2-27 that can give me a drawing for the layout of inboard genoa tracks? I'd like a diagram as to where to put the spinnaker turning blocks as the stern yurns in sharply in the last few feet.

I will try the boat in PHRF here, probably in the local PHRF class "C" with pearson 30's, CAT 27's and similar. As this is the light air capital of the U.S., the boat might do well. If you know of any very good, used, 2-27 spinnakers available, please let me know. Thanks for any help. Sincerely, Gerard L. Field

From: Dave Hill, dave@fairfieldautomation.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal22, Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 2:45 AM.

Hello, We purchased a 1987 Cal22 last year, but can't find any information about it. You seem to be a wealth of Cal data - is there somewhere I can turn to get some Cal 22 information?

I realize that the company has been sold (twice, I think) and that the molds are supposedly somewhere in Massachusetts or Rhode Island, but that doesn't really help me much. Do you know any Cal22 owners groups, or web sites? Thanks in advance for your help. Dave Hill, Aboard "Silent Cal" out of Black Rock Harbor, CT

From: Ellen Seh, eseh@mindspring.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal page posting, Date: Saturday, April 22, 2000 3:12 PM.

Hi, Thanks for all the work on your great website! I've had my Cal 29 for almost nine years now, and the love affair is still going strong.

For all this time, though, I've never located her keel bolts (am I embarrassing myself with this question?), and haven't had anyone else succeed in identifying them for me. Anyone know where the keel bolts are on the Cal 29? Also, are there any Cal 29 Associations or groups out there, whether virtual or real? Thanks, in advance,

Ellen ~~~~_/)~~~~

Editor's note~ Ellen, I don't think that your Cal 29 HAS any keel bolts! My Cal 2-27 looks like it was laid up with the keel as a part of the lay-up. The lead must be lowered into the glass keel cavity after the hull is complete. This is a much better way to build a sailboat as it eliminates all the keel bolt problems and also allows the lead ballast to be placed in a lower, more foward position. ~end editor's note.

From: EDITOR, old Cal Yacht site, Dan Dalrymple

FOR SALE ... Volvo-Penta MD-10A inboard engine, transmission, shaft & prop package for sale. Will fit Cal 24, Cal 25, Cal 27, Cal 29. see BELOW

This inboard engine package that I'm selling includes the MD-10A Volvo four stroke, two cylinder, 15 horsepower gasoline engine, transmission, engine control panel, shaft, prop, strut, fuel tank, distributer, water pump, exhaust system, and cockpit controls. It's perfect for a new installation or cheap enough for a "parts" engine for someone who already owns one of these.

$595 plus actual shipping costs to your area is my asking price. No handling or other hidden charges. I'll package it up and prepare it for shipment free of charge. It weighs over 300 pounds so will need to ship by motor freight. I removed this Volvo Penta MD-10A from my own Cal 2-27. It was running perfectly when removed. It was the BEST starting engine I've ever owned. If you're interested or have any questions just leave an email (mailbox, bottom of this page) for me.

I updated to a Mercury 4 stroke outboard. Believe me, if I could have purchased a nice little running "spare" like this one, for this low price, I would have kept my inboard. I tried to buy one of these engines for parts from a east coast yard. They wanted $1200 plus shipping for an engine that wasn't even running when they removed it!. This one runs perfectly! It drips a little oil into the belly pan and the generator section of the starter/generator doesn't work. If you already own one of these dependable little engines, then you know what a "sweety" she is. This would make a perfect spare "drop in" engine/tranny or simply a cheap "parts" source.

FOR SALE ... Volvo-Penta MD-10A inboard engine, transmission, shaft, prop package for sale. see ABOVE.

From: Marco Coda sail@landsend.bc.ca To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: O'Day 322 Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 1:56 PM

Hello, I have just visited several of your sailing pages and really enjoyed them. To me Cals have always had a great reputation as strong well built sailboats. Do you have any information on the O'Day 322 and it's quality of construction. I'm speculating that since Bangor Punta owned Cal and O'Day that their quality should be similar. Any ideas or thoughts on this would be appreciated. Sincerely, Marco Coda

From: Hugh Owens hughowens@juno.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: HI there, i got a cal 48 website, Date: Saturday, March 18, 2000 3:08 AM.

hi, i have a cal 48 website, it is almost completed. It has quite a bit of information and pictures. Hans, webmaster.

From: jack hamel usjack@hotmail.com To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 46, Date: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 9:29 PM

I'm interested in any info on the cal 46 or the Cal 46 Cruising Assn. Thank you. Jack

From: Erling H. Heistad Erling.H.Heistad@Dartmouth.EDU To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: old cal 27/1970, Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 11:06 PM

--- Forwarded Message from Kim V. Rheinlander --- Hi Dan, I have delighted in sailing my cal 27 for the last 8 years in the gulf of maine and the bay of fundy. From Mass. to Nova Scotia. I would love a little help in figureing what one she is. She doesn't seem to fit into the three hull types you mention. She is hull 70104, has a beam of 8'4" pop top with a Danish Vire 12 IB. I understand that she had origionaly had a Vire 7. Which design do you think she is? Do you know what PHRF rating she would have? displacment? sail area? hull speed?

I love her and we have sailed her to the cold Canadian water each summer . She is small for a cabin heater, but on the other side, the bay of fundy keeps the drinks very cool in the bilge with out useing any ice. I would love to know what her rating is. We have very often been asked as we do very well when sailing with some much larger boats. I love your webbsite but i was not able to respond to your active mail box so i copied your address and I am sending this via regular E-mail. thanks, erling

I emailed Erling and asked him to double check the beam on this boat.

(Erling's second email) Hi Dan, I just got a chance to go to the boat to check the beam and it is in fact a nine foot . What is the beam of the later boats? Do you have any information at all on the early ones? This is hull #104. Do you know of any one else that has one? This one has a flip top not a sliding hatch on the pop top. I think that later ones had a sliding hatch. Before I got mine I remember seeing one that had a light over the galley. perhaps a later add on. Any specks that you have would be appreciated. great little boat. erling

Editor's note: The nine foot beam proves that this is one of the first Cal designs. The 2-27 has a 9 foot 3 inch beam.

From: Steve Podowitz podowitz@mediaone.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal's bigger boats? Date: Friday, May 05, 2000 12:59 PM.

I'm interested in the Cal Cruising series -- the first boat, the Cal Cruising 46 motorsailer was intriguing; later boats also fascinating but not as original. Do you have anything on her? does anybody on the web?

From: Mary Baskerville mmamah@usa.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 39/40, Date: Friday, May 05, 2000 1:06 PM.

hello, i recently bought a cal 39, but i believe it is a 40 because of the info i found here. what i want to know is if you could send me, via snail mail, any info on a cal 40 interior layout so i can rebuild mine, plus any running rigging info and layout. my address is cal owner, 2500 samish way #53,bellingham, wn. 98226. thank you so verry much.

Editor's note: I emailed Mary to tell her that I would send the small amount of information that I have, never recieved a reply.

From: Eric Elwell eric.elwell@iol-12.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: CAL Website... Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 10:21 AM.

Thank you for your very informative site on a boat that is somewhat mysterious and hard to find info on these days. I have just purchased a 1984 Cal 24-2 (I think!), laid out like the line drawings of your Cal 24 site. All specs seem to match. Line drawing in my docs. credits C. Raymond Hunt & Asso. for the design... is that true? Were they just the 'marine architect' of record at the time mine was produced? Warm regards, Eric Elwell, eric.elwell@iol-12.net

From: Mary Griffiths Mary.Griffiths@AeroTaxi.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 4:29 PM.

Hello, My husband and I are thinking of sailing our Cal 9.2 around the world someday and would like any advice you may have. It's always interesting to hear what people have to say about sailing a 7,000 lb. boat across an ocean. Mary

From: Jim Mast jsmast@swbell.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Balboa, Date: Friday, May 12, 2000 8:59 PM.

Dan, I am looking for information concerning the Balboa motorhome that I understand was made by Jensen Marine. Do you have any idea where I might contact the former owners about there RV molds? If you could point me in the right direction... Thanks in advance, Sincerely, Jim Mast, Houston, TX

From: Jephotog@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Sailboat info, Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 4:20 PM.

Hi Dan, I discovered your web sight about Cal 27s and further found more info on other boats as well. I am in the process of doing research on boats in the 26-28 foot range. Some of the boats of interest to me are the Cal 27 and Catalina 27. Since you have owned both boats and have the only web-site I can find dedicated to the Cal 27, I was hoping you could answer some questions on these two boats concerning their traits and differences? Thanks, Jordan Epstein, Jackson, Wy.

The Cal sailed stronger... The Catalina was prettier. Catalina survived the new 10% Federal Excise Tax that President Ronald Reagan allowed to be imposed on our US sailboat industry in the late 1980s but Cal didn't... Cal went broke, along with about a hundred other US boat manufacturers, including Cape Dory, Lancer, Irwin, S-2, and Gulfstar. Even though the unjust excise tax was quickly repealed, our US sailboat manufacturing industry has never recuperated from it. The French, Swedes, British and Aussies are now far ahead of us in sailing technology. If they weren't, we'd have our America's Cup back! Sorry to be blunt but it still upsets me that President Reagan let that unfair Federal Excise Tax cross his desk without a veto. He hurt our boating industry and he hurt American labor.

From: KP C kpc3@hotmail.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal20, Date: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 2:52 AM.

Dan, I came across your Cal boat web site and thought you might be interested in my Cal 20 "Chalupa". Please check out my web site - CruiseWeb at: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/5471 http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/5471/cal20.htm There are some photos and line drawings of the Cal20. Feel free to use the line drawings if you like. Enjoyed reading about all the Cal boats on your sites. Thanks. KP Chin

From: RCcaptain@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 24 ruddder post bushing, Date: Sunday, May 21, 2000 2:12 PM.

Ahoy there, My name is Rich, and I own a Cal 24 on Long Island Sound in Ct. The rudder post has side to side play in it as if a bushing is worn. My ? is is this a major problem, how do you fix it, and where do I purchase the parts. If I remove the tiller will the rudder & post fall out? Do I have to haul the boat? Can I just hold the rudder up and replace the bushing while the boats in the water? Do you have any good parts connections? Any and all input is appreciated. Great web site, any others you know of? Thanks for your help, Rich

Editor's note: Yes, it IS a major problem because it'll drive you nuts during rough weather. My Cal 2-27 was the same way. There are no parts, no bushings, that I know of. Yes, the rudder will probably fall out if you remove the cap while in the water! Yes, the boat needs to be out of the water for this repair. Actually the rudder shouldn't fall out since they are usually originally designed to be lighter than water. They should float but most have absorbed water thru the years and will sink.

Here's how I fixed my sloppy rudderpost on my Cal 2-27. Pull the boat, drop the rudder. Coat the stainless steel rudderpost liberally with fiberglass mold release agent. Swab out the inside of the rudder tube with a swab soaked in acetone. Allow to dry, sand inside of rudder tube with 100 grip sandpaper. (use a drill/wood dowel with sandpaper attached) Re-insert the rudder, center the rudderpost in the tube. Apply modeling clay under the bottom of the rudder tube to seal the bottom of the tube liquid-tight. Mix epoxy resin, slow hardener, and graphite powder and pour into the top of the rudder tube, around the rudderpost. Pour the rudderpost tube full of this epoxy mixture. Allow to harden then force the rudderpost to break loose.

The rudderpost may be snug at first but it should soon loosen. If it doesn't, you may need to remove the rudder and ream the tube slightly with fine sandpaper. Mine loosened up fine. All these fiberglass supplies can be purchased cheaply thru www.raka.com . Raka's fiberglass products are great and only cost about a third of most local prices. No, I do NOT work for Raka. They're just nice people with good, inexpensive products ans a nice website. Quick UPS shipping too.

Tips: Be sure to use a fairly slow hardener since you sometimes are pouring a pretty thick layer of epoxy. A fast hardner could cause the poured bearing to heat and ruin the quality of the finished epoxy bearing. Also be very careful while pouring the epoxy/graphite mixture. It is COAL BLACK and will stain anything that it touches. COVER your topsides to protect them.

From: Bill Crawford crawford@pacificrim.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Beam on early Cal 27, Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 11:35 AM

Hi Dan, Thanks for the CAL info you put on the net. A friend is selling his Cal 27 and I'm thinking about buying, your WEB site has gone far to help me understand the history behind these boats (The Cal line is new to me, we have been sailing a Catalina 22 for years and that was the only brand I have done any research on).

I believe my friends boat was one of the first 27' made by Cal/Jensen, year is 1970 and hull number is #10. You say on your WEB site that the first model (Cal 27) had a beam of only 8', but this boat has a beam of 9'. I see where someone in your Q&A section (Section 2, a posting from Gina Downing) is claiming that her early model Cal 27 also has a beam of 9'. Any ideas about why the discrepancy? Just wondering if I'm not looking at what I think I'm looking at. Thanks! Bill Crawford, possible future Cal 27 owner. Ferndale, Washington. crawford@pacificrim.net

Editor's note: The answer to this one was simple... I WAS WRONG ! Boy, I don't know where I came up with that 8 foot beam figure! I also never realized that anyone ever really READS all this stuff that I type into this website. The beam of the first Cal 27 design was 9 feet even. Thanks Bill. Good luck with your Cal purchase. Dan Dalrymple, Wooster, Ohio. Editor of the Sailing Old Cal Yachts website.

From: Bill Crawford crawford@pacificrim.net , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: Marine head available? in early Cal 27. Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 6:58 PM.

Hi Dan, I THINK you are saying on the call27all page that the marine head did not appear until model 2-27 (that is not exactly what you said, but I think that is what you are implying when you talk about the new features of the 2-27). The current owner says his 1970 Cal 27 came with a marine head (he purchased the boat in 1978 from the original purchaser, and the marine head was installed at that time). Or so he thinks. I've seen the fiberglass ledge to hold the marine head that appears to have been a part of the original manufacture and designed to hold the marine head (it is part of the liner that makes up the V Berth surface), and I have seen the through-hull fittings for seawater and discharge.

When it became illegal to discharge within 3 miles of shore, he pulled the marine head and put in a porta pottie (did not want to give up storage space for the holding tank that would be required to keep the marine head legal), so all that is left to see is the ledge and the capped through-hull fittings. Thanks again! Bill Crawford

Editor's note: Thanks again, bill. Actually, I wasn't insinuating that the early 27 didn't offer a marine head, I just worded it poorly. I'll just post this email to correct things.

By-the-way, I did exactly the same thing with my direct discharge marine head. I installed a porta-potty. I like it a LOT better (for my use) than an internal holding tank. We don't use it often but when we do, there are plenty of porta-potty dumps in our area. Mostly we just use the head/showers in my marina. Spotlessly clean and they work just like the ones we have at home.

From: mark@ao.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 246 Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 11:56 AM

How do I find the 246 owners group?

Old Cal Yachts webpage. A webpage, edited by Dan Dalrymple, and dedicated to one of the greatest Sailboat designers in the world, Bill Lapworth, who designed the Cal 40 in 1963. The Cal 40 remains a great sailboat design to this very day. Someday I'm gonna own one. Da