I retired in 1994 to be with my wife while she was ill. She passed away in 2000, I remarried in 2005, another great girl. I got tired of retirement, started driving semi in 2010, now retired from that.  Being almost 74 now, I have time to devote to this website.  There still seems to be a lot of interest in Cal Yachts.

If you want to post to these Q&A pages, click here to send me an email.
All comments are hand-posted and may be slightly edited. If you want an email posted here, use -Post on Cal Q&A-  as the subject, Include your return email address in the text. Thanks.     This note added on 12/08/2012

PAGE DOWN to read messages . . . Cal Q&A page, page #3.

This 3rd Q&A page now covers emails received from 7/5/99 thru the present. Most Cal owners with questions simply want their e-mails posted on a Q&A section so that other users (perhaps with "first-hand" answers to their questions) can reply directly to them. So, just leave me an e-mail with your question and I'll post it here. There is no charge or fee for this. It is absolutly free. If your e-mail address is included in the post and you get a direct reply, I'd appreciate if you would foward a copy of the reply to me so that I could post it. The answer may help someone else that has a similar problem. Any addresses or phone numbers in the text of your e-mail will be posted unless you tell me to omit them.

HOW to USE these Q&A pages... Got a Cal question? Just load up one of my Q&A pages and use your "FIND" feature of your browser to search the page for your question. To learn about your "find" feature on your browser, click on "HELP", then "INDEX", then "FIND". If you're using IE, hold down "control" while you tap the "F" key to activate it. Try to keep your searches simple. For instance if you need rubrail or have a rubrail problem, just type the single word "rubrail" (no quotes) into your search box. You'll find every question that has the word "rubrail" in it. How do I get my email posted? If you email me, and I think that other readers might be interested in your email, I'll post it. I add these emails into the Q&A section at my convenience (they are not posted automatically), sometimes it takes a while. I upgraded to a cable modem and was forced to change my ISP, thus, my email address. Please don't send email to go2erie@bright.net as this address will soon be gone. My new email address is: go2erie@sssnet.com Thanks

From: Gary Mason masonr@kingston.net To: cal-list@sailnet.com . Subject: Re: Cal25 secondary bonding . . . Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 11:29 PM

I'd love to buy a Cal25 here on Lake Champlain. I just got it (Cal 25) surveyed and was told that the "tabling" or secondary bonding around the "tank horse" and where the bulkheads join the hull were ruptured. The joints had come loose, like sheet rock tape in a corner. I was told that it would affect the structural integrity of the boat. This boat is 17 years old. Does anyone have any experience with this? The boat yard estimated that it would cost $600-700 to repair.

Gary's reply: This is normal for a cal 25 mind you 17 years old sounds like it was abused a might. Mine's over 20 and the tabbing is fine replacing the tabbing can be done quite easily by yourself if you're willing to work with epoxy I'm sure there is enough expertise on this list to help you replace it yourself.

During my recent 2-29 purchase the surveyor reported wet core in the cockpit sole, the cabin roof on both sides of the companionway hatch, on the foredeck, and in several other smaller places. He determined this mostly by using a moisture meter. In addition the cabin roof is "bouncy" in the flat area around the companionway. Can anybody tell me the deck structure in those areas before I start cutting (in the Fall)? Has anybody undertaken this project? Thanks for your help.

Bob Lakari, Cal 2-29

I rebuilt the cabin top deck of my Cal 2-29 (NEPENTHE, #489) three summers ago. The headliner was 1/4 inch plywood covered with a headliner material fastened by battens and screws. It was easily removable.

The deck structure (from top down) was about a 1/4 - 3/8 inch fiberglass, 1/2 inch plywood, with a single layer of fiberglass on the bottom. The bottom layer of fiberglass was easily cut away. The plywood (two sections with a longitudinal joint) was fully saturated with water in places and for the most part was easy to remove. Portions which were dry had to be removed with a chisel. I removed the full width of plywood from the cabin aft bulkhead to about 2 feet aft of the head/cabin bulkhead. The plywood further forward of this was sound (and didn't remove easily).

I rebuilt the deck using a 1/2 inch medium density foam core (Klegecell PL55) with about 1/4 inch of fiberglass on the bottom. My fabrication method was as follows:

• 1) Mask everything (I used several layers of newspaper). It's a messy job.
• 2) Sand underside of deck (disk sander)
• 3) Cut the foam into about 2 ft x 4 ft section
• 4) Attach foam to underside of deck using resin and a layer of 1 oz mat, held in place with battens and 2x4s wedged against bunk, counter, etc. until cured.
• 5) Check for voids between foam and deck. Fill with syringe and resin /microballon paste. Fill gaps between foam pieces with same paste.
• 6) Glass underside of foam with 1808 DBM (double bias with mat) fiberglass cloth. Total of about 5 layers.

The finished structure, although a big improvement compared to before the rebuild, was not as stiff as I would have liked. The next summer I finished off the overhead with 4" x 5/16" ash, attached with screws and epoxy. This added stiffness and ended up looking pretty nice.

Some thoughts:

• 1) I debated for a while on foam versus plywood for reconstruction. Foam won out because 1) it's easier to bend to the shape of the deck; 2) provides better surface for glassing; and 3) won't absorb water in the future. I think if I had to do it again I would still use foam, but would use a higher density (PL75) and thicker (perhaps as thick as 3/4 inch) to get more stiffness. (If I had to do the forward berth ares I think I would use plywood since the deck in that area is almost flat. Same for the cockpit).
• 2) I used a good polyester resin (isophthallic) instead of epoxy, both because of lower cost but primarily for much faster cure time.
• 3) I used a house fan mounted over the forward hatch and blowing out (drawing air into the boat through the companionway hatch).
• 4) I got my materials from Fiberglass Coatings, Inc in Florida. You can get a catalog by calling (800) 272-7890.
• 5) I found "The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual" by Allan Viatses a great reference for both general fiberglass techniques as well as core replacement information.

Good Luck.

Hi Carl, Congratulations on tackling, and completing, a messy job. I have a couple of comments if I may:

• You should never change the type of core unless you are going to a stiffer material. Sure 1/2" ply is difficult to bend, but what is usually done is to laminate 2 layers of 1/4". This is very easy to bend to shape and a laminate of 2 x 1/4" is stronger than 1 x 1/2"
• Polyester resin, even Iso, will not reliably adher to old polyester. Even if it does adher, the bond is no where near as strong as epoxy provides. For that fact alone I consider the slight added expense for epoxy is well worth it
• Vinylester is nearly as good as epoxy, but is more expensive.
• Where did you get the idea that epxoy takes a long time to cure??? In summer temps I have to use a special "slow" hardener just so I can get some working time with epoxy.
• Please don't kid yourself that foam does not absorb water... It certainly does, evidence all the saturated rudders in existance, not to mention saturated foam deck cores. Closed cell or not, it still absorbs water in time.
• I seriously question your statement that foam provides a better surface for glassing. Plywood will absorb a certain amount of resin (especially epoxy) which immediately provides a superior bond. A caveat here... If you are bonding plywood **do not** use polyester resin as it does not bond to wood with anything like the certainty of epoxy.

Regards, BC

What's recommended for removing wax? I will be doing some gel coat repair & know that the previous owner applied turtle wax to the topsides. Also, suggestions on restoring the original white & medium blue gel coat [ it's in faded but generally good condition] would be appreciated. I was concidering sanding the gel coat with 1500 grit, then compounding & waxing it. Any wax recommended that will stand up to New England summers? Joe DeMers

Joe: You can get a wax and silicone remover from auto body supply shops. Follow instructions and use lots of rags or paper towels (so you don't just spread the stuff out). There are silicone fish-eye preventers that are additives to your paint or finish, but I've read that they work by introducing silicones into your new finish and generally cause more problems than they solve. Perhaps others have experience using them. Chris Campbell

Except the "industrial" wax remover will not work on the Collinite wax. I know. We tried to remove it the conventional way before applying vinyl lettering. Nada. Fell right off.

Collinite says that only its cleaner and elbow grease will take off the wax. Hope this helps... And.... Have a happy and SAFE time on the water! Ken Kloeber

For wax removal, and removing the original mold release agent (yes it will still be around even after all these years), get some Interlux 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash... Use 2 people (one to apply and the other to immediately wipe off) and lots of cloths... If you don't change the cloths frequently you just start spreading the wax around. BC

Any Cal 34 owners in the Puget Sound area want spare parts for an Atomic4 and backup reduction gear and V-drive? We all know how expensive even thermostats can be.

I have an Atomic4, transmission, and Walter V-drive that came out of my Cal 34. I believe that the block is cracked in that I had water in the cylinders. Remachining the head did not solve the problem. Also the exhaust manifold checked out ok. The transmission and V-drive were operational when removed from boat.

Asking $250, Ron

Hello All, I've got a 86' Cal 33 that I assume has all its original standing rigging (its about 15 years old). The boat had been stored (previous owner) with the mast in for at least the last few winters. I've starting to notice subtle but growing rust stains on the deck in the area of the shroud connection points. This rust can only be coming (slowly) from the rigging/turnbuckles. On closer inspection, the standing rigging wire is not squeaky shining clean, but appears to have some rust within. My questions ...

• 1. Can this just be cleaned ? If so, with what recommended product ?
• 2. Just replace it all ? (which after 15 years I'm inclined to do this winter). If so, what type of wire is preferred ?

Cheers, Paul Duffy

I have a heat exchanger, expansion tank and a Jabsco pump that were on my fresh water cooled Atomic4. I'd like to sell the package to someone in the Puget Sound area (ie can pick it up) and am asking $75 for the lot. Thanks, Ron

I've found three different companies that make Cal Rubrail. D&R marine Inc., WEFCO Rubber Manufacturing Co., and Salisbury. Has anyone had any dealings with these companies? How does the quality of their product compare? D&R claims their product is non-chalking. Can anyone confirm that? Cheers. Woody

ALLAN W. BART" wrote: Hi, I am using my cal with a cockpit traveler system and I was wondering must i also use a vang arrangement, i would appreciate your comments. allan

Hi, Allan. Traveler sets the boom height going up wind (unless you get a spring loaded vang). In lighter air, a windward traveler position will let the boom ride higher for the same angle to the wind. Vang sets the boom height reaching and running. Without the vang, you will get excessive curl in the main when off the wind.

Cheers, Charlie Husar, '74 CAL 25 - 1657, "Chicken Little", Annapolis, MD

-----Original Message----- From: WILLPATTEN@aol.com [SMTP:WILLPATTEN@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, July 10, 1999 5:28 PM To: cal-list@sailnet.com Cc to: go2erie@bright.net . Subject: Re: Roller Furling question

I just bought an '82 Cal 25 on Lake Champlain. Great boat. What makes yours a 2-25?

1st reply, William Wagner wrote: Actually I was wrong about the year, she's an '81. As for the differences between the regular 25 and the MK2, I couldn't tell you. That's just what the told me it was. I really didn't know much about Cals before I saw this boat and fell in love (most of my research was done into newer boats until I finally faced that fact that I'd never be able to afford a new boat). I've tried to find info online but there doesn't seem to be much out there. If anyone knows of a web site or something that might have that kind of info, I'd be happy to hear it.

2nd reply writes: Bill, original CAL 25 was flat deck with pop top from the Lapworth line that first separated the keel form the rudder to improve agility of boat (among other things). Very much a sister ship of original CAL 40, 28, and 27 T/2 among others of the line). The original CAL 25 was built from the mid 60s to the mid 70s - 1977 was the last year I believe - with some 1800+ unit in existence). The boat was/is a cruiser racer with emphasis on the racer. Fair amount of room below, but it is horizontal rather than vertical.

The CAL 2-25 (sometimes called an MK2 - because it sounds sexier?) was started in the mid 70s with a cruising emphasis. The dog house gives close to stand-up head room. Last time I was in one, I remember the cabin sole being molded glas rather than wood. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe she is a Lapworth. I can't quite remember when all the companies started going broke and selling out. Jensen goes to Pearson goes to O'Day, etc.) She has an inboard (on some) and a lot of space. She does not have the old deep bilge. She is a sister to the 2-27, 2-29, 2-30, 2-34 among others.

Cheers, Charlie Husar, '74 CAL 25 - Chicken Little, Annapolis, MD

Dan: Just acquired a 1977 Cal 34 and am in the process of bringing her back to life. None of the three mast lights work and I fear there may be a wiring disconnect inside the mast. Do you know where I could get a wiring diagram or set of plans that would sho where the wires can be accessed, since the mast sits on a 2 by 8 post and there are no obvious places where the wires exit or enter. Thanks in advance.

Rob Shellow, Bethesda, MD, imarcorp@mindspring.com

Editor's note~ Yes Rob, there are connections in the base of the mast. These are always troublemakers. The best time to clean them up and check them out is when the mast is down. There is usually no way to get to these connections while the mast is stepped. dd ~end editor's note.

Received: (from dfew@juno.com) by m11.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id ER74TVXS; Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:26:39 EST To: go2erie@bright.net Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:25:33 -0800,Subject: Picture on web Page of Cal 24 footer

Dan ---The picture you said was a Cal -24 and had a correction offered by some "old timer" that it was a Cal 25 is indeed a 24 foot Cal. It is the 2nd generation 24 foot Cal known as the Cal 2-24. It is identifiable primarily because of the double aft lowers. Were the entire picture shown you would also see that it was a 15/16 rig and it had a bolt on cast iron keel. The early Cal 25 was a Flush Deck mast head rig with single lowers and internal ballast. I own a Cal 25-II, mast head rig with double lowers, and inboard, 1980 model, one of Bill Lapworth's last designs before Hunt took over.

I e-mailed you once before but never received a response so was not sure you received my e-mail. I have most of the brochures for Cals built up to about 1980 under 30 ft. The USsailing data books are also a valuable source of configuration data if you are intrested.

Regards Dave Few Chairman, Northern California PHRF Committee.

From: SWhhite@aol.com To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 27 leaking rudder post. Date: Thursday, November 25, 1999 9:36 PM

I have a 27 foot Cal. Hull #153. While at the dock she does not leak a drop. However, under power water comes up through the top of the rudder post housing. I am not sure how to tackle this problem.

From: David R. Stapells, stapells@audiospeech.ubc.ca , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple, go2erie@mail.bright.net Subject: tidal grid... Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 PM

Hi Dan, I've enjoyed your various pages! I have a question re: my Cal 2-29. (We purchased a 1974 Cal 29 last summer -- interestingly, it was built up here in North Vancouver BC! We've managed 51 days out in her since June --loved them all.) My question is: Do you know if the Cal 2-29 can be easily/safely taken onto a tidal grid?

I was all set to do a do-it-yourself bottom cleaning and zinc replacement on our club's tidal grid when freinds suggested I check around first to see if Cal 29s can safely be put on a grid (are they balanced, etc). We hauled her out with a travellift when we first got her -- certainly looks like she can go on a grid. Any ideas??

Much appreciated, David Stapells, Vancouver, BC Canada stapells@audiospeech.ubc.ca

My reply: (I didn't know what a "tidal grid" was.) Sorry About That, editor. We don't have any "tidal grids" here in Lake Erie.

Hi David, I don't understand what you mean by "put on a tidal grid". Cal 29s have traveled the seven seas, if that's what you mean. They're not really my favorite choice for ocean travel but they've been there. The problems with a 29 footer for ocean crossings is that there's not enough room to store all the water, food, life rafts, and other safety equipment without severely overloading the boat.

Actually, tides don't really effect sailing during mid-ocean travel. Unless you read the tide charts, you don't know if it's low or high tide while you're sailing in mid-ocean. Tides effect sailors while coastal cruising, however. The rising and lowering of the water level causes water to rush in and out of bays and channels causing high currents at times. So coastal cruising has far more effects on a sailboat than does mid-ocean cruising. If you're sailing near Vancouver, BC, you must already be experiencing these tidal effects. If your club has a "tidal grid" type of race through this type of situation, I'm sure that your Cal will do well.

Dan Dalrymple, editor of the website:

Hi Dan, Thanks for your quick reply.

A misinterpretation indeed! A "tidal grid" (could be a west-coast Canada term) is a docking area (usually with pilings -- sometimes with a stone -- ouch -- wall) where the tidal range is large enough (and the bottom flat/clean/solid enough) that we can put a boat "on the hard" for the duration of low tide. One can then clean (and repaint) bottom; change zincs, etc.

The English language is something else, eh?

My original question concerned whether the balance of the Cal 29 (and the strength of its fin keel) was such that we can put her in the tidal grid (leaning against many fat fenders against wooden pilings) for a few hours. (Wouldn't want it to tip forward or backwards!) I was all set to do this when a friend, who is VERY knowledgeable about boats but doesn't know Cals, suggested we double check. (I know Catalina 27s can).

Yes, here in B.C. we definitely have tidal effects! Just to get out of Vancouver Harbour we have to check the current, as they are up to 4-5 knots.... Then there's the many passes (8-13 knot currents... even higher further north) in the islands where we have to time our arrival for slack tide.

Much as I love my Cal 29, I would not think of anything but coastal cruising (probably within 50 km of shore max) on her. (Although, not for LOA/LWL issues -- the Pardey's and others would disagree with 29' being "too small" -- provided it was a more seaworthy boat.)

I like your webpages! Sincerely, David Stapells, Vancouver, B.C., SV Lover's Moon

From: Michael Lehmkuhl ghz@mindspring.com ,To:go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 40- Pearson Renegade, Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 7:05 PM

Dan, Was looking over the information you have on your site re the Cal 40. Nice resource! Nice boat! I'd like to link to your page from my Pearson Renegade site and I'm asking you provide a return link when you get the chance. You will notice some interesting similarities between the Cal 40 and the 27 foot Renegade-- most of them below the waterline! I will also have to revise some of the text to pay appropriate homage to Lapworth. Thanks,

Mike Lehmkuhl, Renegade # 3, ATHENE, http://www.mindspring.com/~ghz

From: Paul Huelle pehs@elpn.com , Subject: Cal 25?? , Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 10:40 PM

Dan, Do you have anything on Cal 25? I am a graphic artist working on a project which requires pictorial information for Cal 25 and some other boats. Thanks. Paul Huelle

Dan, After cruising around in your extensive website I found the page on Cal 24/25. Do you have the the lines for the the 25 or are the lines of the Cal 24 similar? Thank you. Paul Huelle

From: Lawson Forrester lawsonf@america.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal Boats, Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:35 PM

I am glad to find this web page that you have dedicated to the Cal Boats. I own a 1973 Cal T-2, a 27'. It is in great sailing shape, perhaps due to sailing in the fresh water of Lake Lanier NE of Atlanta. I am in desperate need of a rub rail and would like your help. Please respond to me via e-mail if you have any suggestions. Thanks, Lawson Forrester

Editor's note~ Rub rails seem to be a real problem with old Cals. Check out the older Q&A sections right here on this site. There are several sources listed in my Q&A sections #1 and #2. None are cheap. Let me know if any of those old sources are still active. ~end editor's note.

From: Brian Cleverly anzam1@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: CAL brochures etc., Date: Sunday, December 26, 1999 1:41 AM

Hi Dan, I've just re-visited your web site (after a long absence) and see you are after further sales brochures etc.

Regards, Brian Cleverly

From: Lawson Forrester, lawsonf@america.net , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple, go2erie@mail.bright.net ,Subject: Sailboat-Cal T-2, Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 12:35 AM

Editor's note~ Here's some information that Lawson sent about the T-2. Lawson also sent a couple of nice photos. ~end editor's note.

Thanks for the quick response. Several years ago, I lost most of the specs on the boat, however it was designed to be a half ton racer. The hull is the same as the Cal 27(not 2-27) and draws 4' 6" and has a tall rig. The deck is flat from the mast to the bow and the interior is identical to the 27. I have attempted to attach a scanned picture of the boat with this e-mail.

When I bought the boat in 1976 it was in new condition with a 6 hp Evinrude outboard motor. I recently upgraded to a 15 hp motor. I raced the boat very hard for about 5 years from 1976 to 1981 with the major competition being the Morgan 27's and the tall rig Catalina 27's. I have a complete sail inventory consisting of a main sail, storm jib, 150 jenny, a 170 jenny and spinnaker. Presently I mostly cruise Lake Lanier single handed, which is easy with all the lines run back to the cockpit.

Lake Lanier is a large man made lake constructed back in 1952 by the corps of engineers for flood control and generation of electricity for Georgia Power. The shore line is close to 500 miles and nice for sailing. The majority of all large boats remain in the water year round. My boat has only been out of the water on two occasions for one week each time for bottom cleaning and repainting. I do use scuba gear and clean the bottom two or three times each year.

Stay in touch. Lawson Forrester

From: Bruce Fraser bruce@gs-strategy.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Loved your old cal site, Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 3:03 PM

Hey Dan: I live in Vancouver, and have cruised the gulf islands and other local waters here all my life. I just sold my beloved C & C 25, and bought a 1974 Cal 2-27 ("After Five"). I love the boat. She is stiff and strong, surprisingly quick, dry and safe in a blow, and there's enough room below to play volleyball (comapred to my C&C).

So I've been looking to find out more about her heritage, and there is surprisingly little on the net as I'm sure you are aware. This made your site a welcome find! Any way, I'm to pull her sails off for the winter right now, but keep up the good work. Also- I have an original copy of the sales brochure (for '75 2-27) in my possesion... Anyway, thanks for the info and merry christmas from the west coast. Cheers, Bruce Fraser

PS: I also enjoyed your reviews of other favourite boats/designs. Ilearned to sail on my father's Alberg 30, then sailed to Mexico and Tahiti aboard an Alberg 37, and owned a beautiful little Carl Alberg designed sloop called a Sea Sprite 23 before purchasing my C&C. Bruce Fraser

Editor's note~ I've heard of the Cal 2-27 "After Five". I can't think of where right now. You and I think the same about the Cal 2-27s. ~end editor's note.

From: Del Wiese dwiese@cfl.rr.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: CAL28, Date: Friday, December 24, 1999 10:29 AM

I have a 1968 CAL28 with an Atomic 4. I have the original owner's manual and a scanner. Would you be interested in receiving this information?

Editor's note~ Yes, I'm always interested in more information on Cal Yachts. I'm slow getting it posted but I never lose it and will get it in sometime, somehow. ~end editor's note.

I live in Florida and sail on the Indian River (a saltwater lagoon) with occassional trips to the Bahamas.

I owned a 1971 CAL25 for 18 years before buying the 28. The flush deck designs are super for Florida, we spend very little time down below so the limited head room is not a problem and the open deck space is great for racing or cruising.

Appreciate your web site. Have a Merry Christmas! Del Wiese

From: Bob Bailey bbbbailey@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 34 1 & Cal 34 2, Date: Sunday, December 26, 1999 3:19 AM

(Cal 34-1 & Cal 34-2) am looking for information and specifications on these well remembered boats from the early 1970's. Have you had any responses to your quiry.

Thank you, Bob Bailey, Pasadena CA

From: Peter W. Rapelje prapelje@optonline.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Post on Q&A, Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 10:02 PM

My Son has a 1984 Cal 31. It appears that the aluminum fuel tank under the port berth is leaking. Does anyone know of a replacement tank? Would it be practical to repair the tank using fiberglass & epoxy? Peter Rapelje, prapelje@optonline.net

Editor's note~ I hate to sound like a broken record and no, I do not work for Defender Marine Supply but they have several replacemant fuel tanks in their Marine Buyer's Guide 2000 (catalog). This catalog is free and can be obtained by calling their 800 number and requesting it. Their number is 800-628-8225. On page 180 they offer Tempo fuel tanks from 11 to 50 gallons, for permanent installation in various sizes and shapes. The prices for these tanks run from $79 to $175. (diesel tanks require an extra $20 fitting) They also offer on the same page, Todd Fuel Tanks in MORE capacities, shapes and sizes. These Todd tanks run from 9 to 55 gallons for about $114 to about $275.

I know people who have repaired fuel tanks with epoxy but that's not for me. Gasoline is too volatile and diesel fuel is too stinky (yuk) to take a chance on another leak. Sailors have enough dangers facing them to take a chance on a leaking fuel tank and possibly a fire. ~end editor's note.

From: Sonja Beardsley sbeardsley@ci.fairfax.va.us To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: 1981 CAL 35, Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 8:29 PM

Would like information on a 1981 CAL 35'. Boat looks to be in great shape. Was used as a club racer. Universal diesel. Any information, location of review, etc much appreciated.

From: Kurt.Langford@fluor.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 40's, Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 8:31 PM, I hope this attachment attaches.(See attached file: CAL40.doc)

Mr. Dalyrmple, Greetings from a fellow Cal 40/Bill Lapworth design fan. It’s nice to see that I am not the only one! If just finding your website (by searching for “Cal 40” and “Bill Lapworth”) isn’t enough testimony to my fanaticism, I offer as proof to the degree of my devotion the fact that I named my only daughter after a Cal 40, “Emily Ann.” I have to say that your pledge to “someday own one, God willing”, and your genuine nut-case enthusiasm for the 40 sends chills down my spine.

I grew up sailing in Southern California in the late ‘60’s and ‘70’s and had quite a bit of exposure the the old Cal boats. I mostly sailed aboard boats manufacturerd by others; Ericsons and Yankees, but was always in awe of the Cals - especially the 40’s. Later on I was the skipper of a sleek double-ended Calkins 50 “Dulcinea” that Jack Jensen’s ashes were skattered from (That was late 1980 or early 1981 - not “recently” as mentioned in your site). We used to weekend Dulcinea in the same island cove as crew-cutted Bill Lapworth who also weekended there in his Cal 3-30.

The first boat that I ever raced on was a Cal 30; hull number 58, “Gayle.” What a sweetie - except for the so-flat bow that would pound along to weather! I also crewed aboard the 40’s “Viva” (on the cover of “One Design & Offshore Yachtsman” 1968 or so), “Williwaw”, “Persephone” (hull number 1 - if you don’t count “Gypsy” - with her wood deck), and one of the last 40’s; “Lynla.”

The very last Cal 40, hull number 90-something, was commissioned right next to an Ericson that I was commissioning (painting the bottom on), and it was named “Golden City.” It was being shipped to South Africa. It was known at the time that “Golden City” would be the last 40. Jensen was breaking up the molds.

I must note that my “Cal-enthusiasm” is not quite as broadly spread as yours. I only hold the early, “first batch”, of Cals in such high esteem - and not even all of them. The 20, the first 30 (for it’s sweetness), the awesome 2-30, the 25 is nice, the original 36 (except for the rig - that fell down a lot), of course most of all the 40, maybe the grand 48, and prehaps the most practical design of all-time; the kinda-ugly 28 all fit into this batch (Jensen sailed a 28 to Tahiti!). The 29’s OK too. The 34 was always too much of a “tank” for me. Later on the original speedy 27 certainly got my attention (even without any headroom - I’m just not as fond of the later trunk cabin versions - they’re not the way the artist originally intended). The 33 was very handy for a One Tonner, and for some reason I’ve always liked the “attitude” look of the T-4 - even though I’m sure that it has the typical IOR hull shape problems. (The T-4 was not developed for the PHRF Quarter Ton Rule - whatever that was. The T-4 was designed to the MORC measurement rule, and to rate at the “Quarter Ton” level. The MORC rule was based on the awful IOR rule - but for boats under 30’ in length. Prior to that the measurement rule for <30’ boats was the MORF rule which was based on the old CCA measurement rule that the 40 did so well under.)

The hodge-podge of later Cal boats I thought didn’t have the straightforward, farmer practicality of this special group (I’d certainly take a nice 2-39 though). There were other Lapworth designs that weren’t made by Jensen Marine that did have this Lapworth magic though; Robin Lee Graham’s “Dove” (which was not a Cal 24 at all, ever - but was an “L-24”, or “Lapworth 24” - which had the same hull as the raised deck version which was called a “Gladiator 24.” The hull of these is not nearly the same as the lower freeboarded, flatter bottomed, centerboarded original Cal 24.) The movie “Dove” was shot using a Columbia 26 MkII. Robin actually completed about the last 20% of his voyage in a Bristol 34. I still have the three National Geographics covering the voyage of the Dove.

The old wooden Lapworth 36’s were cool (except for the hulls pulling apart at the bow), and a 30’ Lapworth designed race course arch-rival of ours; “Vixen”, which was destinctly Lapworthian. Don’t forget the two bow-spritted, plum bowed Lapworth 32’s that terrorized a few Transpacs (races to Hawaii) back then; “Spirit” (I think), and “l’sprit” - which was lost with all hands on the delivery back in 1968 or 70. There was a custom 44’ aft cabin sloop, “Nalu” that was very, very nice (aluminum I think). A surprise to your Lapworth eye might be the long-ended little 26’ “Endeavor” sloops that had several fiberglass builders including Schock. I had use of one for a couple of years and loved it. Bill also designed a 13’ open hulled cat-boat called a “Metcalf” that are still raced out of Balboa Yacht Club in Newport California. I had use of one of those as a youngster. It’s a mini Cal 40 with the dophin bow and that long v-run aft - only a lot tippier.

At home (I’m not there right now) I am writing a never-ending saga of my sailing days back then. It includes some Cal 40 praise-filled anecdotes and also a list from my memory of about 40 of the original Cal 40 names. I also list the “bobbed” 40’s - the shortened 37’ hulls that were either built that way or were later shortened (which was a sin). I don’t know if you were around back then, but these original Cal 40 ass-kickin’ racehorse names also give me chills. Seems to me that this list in it’s entirety would be worth compiling to some nuts like us. Let me know if you’d like me to e-mail it to you for accuritizing by others as well as additions to it. Seems to me that only the original names of these noble steeds should make the list however.

Thanks, what fun! And Thanks for the Cal 40 profile - it’s up in my cubicle now. Do you have a sailplan? Kurt Langford, kurt.langford@adpmarshall.com or klangford@dakotacom.net

P.S. - If you see an old, worn-out, blue hulled Yankee 30 (hull #1, sail #7966 “Independence”) that was last seen headed out Chesapeake way, give her a little pat on the transom for me - and let me know. We sailed a lot of miles together.

Also - I see you’re collecting old sailing magazines of sorts. If you ever come across any of the original “Lands End” catalogs, grab ‘em, they were so cool. They were only catalogs of sailboat hardware. Each year they’d have a photo spread of a different famous sailboat featured. I recall one year was the Gary Mull aluminum 50 footer “Dora IV”. Other years were Buddy Melges’ Olympic Soling “Teal”, and Charlie Morgans varnished 12 meter “Heritage.”

P.S.S. - I remember reading in Latitude 38 a couple of years ago that there was a book being written about the old “plastic fantastics” of the ‘60’s. Do you know anything about this?

Editor's note~ Yes Kurt, we agree on Cal 40s. Sorry that it took so long for me to post this email, it's just what we need in this Q&A section. ~end editor's note.

From: William H. Hutchinson whhutchi@redrose.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 2-27, Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:24 PM

Dan, I enjoyed your web site very much. I have owned a Cal 2-27 since new in 1976 and, while I would like to have a bigger boat for range and space, I know it won't likely be a significantly better boat, and certainly not for the price an aggravation. I am in need of replacing the spreaders for the second time. I replaced the original spruce with fir because it was available near me, but I have a lead on some clear spruce pieces this time. I have been told that towards the end of the life (Cal 2-27), aluminum spreaders were sold, though I'm not sure if that was with the 2-27 or the Mark III and if they are interchangeable. Do you have have knowledge of that or leads on stashes of parts for these boats? Thanks very much. Bill Hutchinson Hull # 235, Halcyon, Eastern Shore of Chesapeake Bay

From: Paul Huelle pehs@elpn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 25 lines, Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 2:06 PM

Dan, I found your website and have enjoyed perusing the material on your favorite yachts. I am a marine artist and am seeking material on the Cal 25 for an upcoming drawing. Do you have any knowledge concerning where I might find a copy of the lines for this boat? Sincerely, Paul Huelle, Yankee Clipper Art

From: Paul Huelle To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple Subject: Re: Cal 25 lines Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 4:52 PM

Dan and Karen Dalrymple wrote:

Hello Paul, Which Cal 25 were you wanting? There were several different designs. There was a later trunk cabin 25 with fin keel and spade rudder. There was an earlier 25 "flat top" design. Dan Dalrymple, editor of the website: http://www.bright.net/~go2erie/index.html This site contains my Old Cal Yacht pages, Herbal cure page, Muzzle Loading ballistics, my Family History page and more. Double click on the above url, you might like it.

Paul replies:

Dan and Karen, I am still trying to perfect the absurd - you mean, eventually, I have to do the impossible too! Should have guessed... Right now, I want the hull shape and sail plan for the "flat top" Cal 25. Did both Cal 25's share the same hull? Paul Huelle, Yankee Clipper Art

From: Bill Allen bna@smart.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 21, Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 10:37 PM

Dan, I have a cal 21 - #39 , # 39 if my memory serves me right. Have teaked the seats and passage way. Results were great. Have only had it out maybe 6 or 7 times and it seems to challenge nicely any boat near its size. I am interested in selling it (Cal 21) and wonder if you would know of any cal magazine or club where I could advertise it. also it would be fun to gather a little more info on the boat. Any links would be appreciated. thanks, bill allen

From: Janhall73@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 9.2, Date: Thursday, January 06, 2000 3:26 PM

I own a 1983 9.2R...

It is an excellent handling and very fast boat...mine has been modified by adding 300 hundred lbs to the keel.. (Holland designed in space for this) plus an iron foot was added to the keel for an adiitional 80 lbs. In addition to the weight, the rigging has been redesigned (with Holland's help) to attach to the bulkhead and the keel as the original design was only plated to the deck.

We also added 18 inches to the boom...it just clears the backstay! The boat has been competitive for 17 years and does well in PHRF cruising class. The modifacations extend the range of this boat from light air to 20 plus knots comfortably and she is super in to 18kts before you even have to think of reefing, I have singlehanded this boat in 18kts, no reef, with a 150 up and it was exciting and akin to riding a rocket.....

On the way down to winter storage my son in law and I sailed her from Marblehead, Ma to the Cape Cod Canal entrance (49 miles) in 7 hours with winds that ranged from 12 to 18kts from the ssw...we saw consistant 5.2 to 5.9 kts on the speedo all the way.

The 9.2 is a great up wind boat and performs equally well on all points of sail. Bob , hubradio@aol

From: Carl and Christine Beckstedt III cruzantime@worldnet.att.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 2-27 Rudder, Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 6:39 PM

Hi Dan. Great website! My wife and I used it extensively in buying our first big boat last September; a 1978 Cal 2-27. I was trying to get to your Q & A to ask a couple of questions but I couldn't find it. I hope you don't mind that I contacted you through your family history email link.

Unfortunately, our new boat was injured by Hurricane Lenny last November and the rudder bent (among other things) when it landed on the hard. Do you know: (1) how much a used rudder and "pipe" cost, and (2) where we could find one? I know where one is for sale, but I think the seller is asking way too much. But, at the same time, I'm not looking forward to making one. I just wanted to know what a fair price would be. Appreciate the help. Carl

PS How do we connect to your Q&A page? Thanks.

From: WGillikin@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 28, Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 3:32 PM

I am in the process of moving up from my '69 Cal 28 (sailed for 12 years) to an '82 Cal 39. Cal's are great boats.

I happen to have the Cal 28 Owner's Guide, a copy of the original 'California 28' sales brochure, and some digital pictures of my boat. I would be happy to provide you whatever you like.

From: Ken Davis kdavis@ticketweb.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 24s, Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 10:05 PM

Hiya, Just got skimmed your "Old Cal" web site (I will be returning to read further), and I had a quick question for ya; Can you direct me to a web site/organization that can tell me more about the 67' Cal 24 I just bought?

I have been told that there is a huge Cal 24 sailing community, but I have yet to find them. Thanks for anything you could throw my way. -Ken NaniDesuKa@aol.com

From: Darrell Hannon Beachcity@worldnet.att.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Cal 27 Owners Manual, Date: Thursday, January 13, 2000 12:14 PM

I just purchased a 1971 Cal 27. Unfortunately it had no owners manual. Do you have any idea where I could get info on this? It has the pop-top and a Volvo Penta engine. My previous experience with sailboats was with a Lightning out of Rocky River. Thank you. Enjoy your site very much.

From: john montella john_montella@email.msn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: cal 25, Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 4:30 PM

hi, thanks for the info on the history of the cal boats. i have just bought a 1978 cal 25 mark2 and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction on how to obtain the spec sheets and any pertinent info on this model. thanks for your help, john

From: Austin Greer austingreer@yahoo.com , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Robin Graham, Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 2:38 AM

Dear Sir, I am trying to get in touch with Robin Lee Graham. I am a huge fan of his and I wanted to write him a letter. Do you have his address or do you know of anyone that has his address. Thanks For Your Help, Austin Greer Mobile AL. PS Please E-MAIL ME at: austingreer@yahoo.com

From: Dennis OMalley dennis.omalley@worldnet.att.net, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: your web page,Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 4:57 PM

Just wanted to let you know that your web page is great. On these cold winter days, it's nice to go "shopping"! Thanks again.

From: Sandy Freeman sandykf@earthlink.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: sale and message board ? (Q&A sections: per editor) Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 12:58 PM

Hi Dan, Say I was looking through your site this morning and noticed that the link to your message and sale board was gone ?? I'm looking in the wrong place ? wouldn't be the first time :-)

There was a Cal 40 listed for sale that I'm very interested in talking to the owner about. I belive the boat is down in San Francisco. Thanks in advance for any help Have a great day, Sandy Freeman, sandykf@earthlink.net

The Q&A section has returned! per editor dsd

From: Ian Stephenson yachts@yachtsls.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 44, Date: Friday, January 21, 2000 10:08 AM

Nice web site: I am curious to know if you have any info on the Cal 44. It was built by Lear Seigler in the 80s, problably a second generation builder. Anything at all would be helpful. I understand they only built a couple of dozen. I was aboard one last fall in Windsor and would like to know more. If you need or want info about Whitby 42s or Alberg 37s, maybe I can reciprocate. Thanks for any and all help..Regards, Douglas Stephenson

From: Nick G. Tarlson ntarl@dictyon.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 20s, Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 6:08 PM

I enjoyed seeing your web site about the Cal sailboats. We have a fleet of Cal 20s here in the San Francisco Sea Scouts, also a Cal 27 and "Cal 25"...:-)

One suggestion on the 20s, Steve Seals makes parts and has a rigging guide on the web, in fact I was looking for it when I ran across your page. Would be a useful link to add to your Cal 20 page, I would think. Thanks again, Nick Tarlson

From: Bob bob@erienet.net , To: Dan Dalrymple go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Re: folding prop ??, Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 8:10 AM

Hey Dan. I'm from Lorain and have a 32 Bayfield. In board diesel. Should I consider a folding prop? Will it make that much difference? What about control backing? Right now it tends to drift to port. Thanks for your time. Bob Palinski. See you at the Islands!!!

My reply to Bob. That depends on what you want to gain the speed for. If you're racing phrf, the folding prop will give you more sailing speed for sure, but your phrf rating will also change. Now you HAVE to sail faster to make up for the different rating. Sometimes a person needs to think about this for a while.

If you just enjoy sailing faster, no doubt the folding prop is worth the expense. Bayfields are great boats but not exactly the "Tartan Ten" of the sailing world. The folding prop, however, will still give you more sailing speed. The folding prop will NOT help your reverse. It will make it worse (unless you go to a Max-Prop for about a grand$) The Max-prop will give you more power in reverse but will probably not help the pulling to the left at all.

From: DBoboc9556@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net ,Subject: Lapworth 24, Date: Monday, January 31, 2000 11:57 AM

Hello Dan, I just found your web site. I was very pleased to find some info on the old Cals, as the very first book I read about boating was The Dove by Robin Lee Graham.

I have some old Yachting magazines that have some ads about the old Lapworth 24. It said they were built by Continental plastics in California. I was wondering if you might have any sources for drawings or plans of the Lapworth 24; a few years ago I bought a set of lines drawings from bill Lapworth for the wooden prototype of the L-24, but I was really interested in finding something on the fiberglass production version. thanks, Dave Boboc

From: Bill Halderson halderson@whitelion.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Post on Q&A Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 12:16 PM

Hi. Does anyone know the book value of a 1981 Cal 31? Are there any for sale out there? Janice Halderson halderson@whitelion.net

Editor's note~ Take a look at http://www.yachtworld.com/boats . They have LOTS of Cals listed. GOOD place to look, good place to buy. ~end editor's note.

From: Jonas Larsen jonaslarsen@mediaone.net , To: go2erie@bright.net , Subject: Sails for a '69 Cal 28, Date: Saturday, April 15, 2000 8:38 PM

I have a 1969 Cal 28 and I'm in need of a set of good used sails or cheap new sails, where should I go?

From: Lindsay Pannell lindsay-air@prodigy.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 6:09 AM

hey, how are you? just thought I would write to let you know that my father has an lapworth design cal jensen 24 around 62 or 63 he is very proud of. we're in the process of completly refitting the boat and are wanting to go back with the teak toerail just not real sure of the process or should i say the easiest process. if you could e-mail me back with tips on how to replace such things as the teak toerail etc. I would apprieciate it and so would my father . one more thing, i'm sure he would love a newsletter if you do something as such. he also has most if not all original documents and history of ownership and such on the boat that he would share or at least fax copys to you for your web page. I myself have just look a a boat called a kittywake 24 supposedly a alberg design do know of any info for my before I consider purchasing? anyway your reply would be greatly appreciated thanks. brandon pannell, e-mail lindsay-air@prodigy.net , little rock, ar 72211

Editor's note~ Sorry, Brandon, No newsletter yet. I'll post this in my Q&A section, maybe you guys'll get some help with that toerail. And yes, I'm familiar with the Kittywake 24 and it is an Alberg design. Great little boat. Good luck to you and your dad in restoring the Cal 24. You'll remember that project for the rest of your life. email me back and let me know how the project's coming along. ~end editor's note.

From: Johngnmb@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net,Subject: Your Cal web page, Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 8:39 PM

Dan, I tried to get to the Cal 29 page through your link several times and it loads 30% one time then 95% another time, but never seems to completely load the photos or line drawings (Drawings are the primary interest). Is there a problem with the site or me? The reason I'm interested is I'm looking at a Cal 29 and this is the only information I've been able to locate. Thanks in advance for any help. John Gajdos

From: To: Subject: Lapworth 24 Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 11:56 PM

Hello Dan, You may remember I sent you an e-mail a few days ago about the Lapworth 24; I had mentioned that I though it was built by Continental plastics. Here is an ad I scanned from the March 1963 issue of Yachting magazine. Dave Boboc

Editor's note~ Dave sent me a nice scanned brochure on the Lapworth 24, I can't post the scan here but here are the specs: LOA= 24' 0", LWL=20' 0", Beam= 7' 6", Draft= 4' 0", Displacement (unladen)= 4350 pounds, Ballast (lead)= 1650 pounds, Main 171 sq ft, Working jib 126 sq ft, Genoa 195 sq ft, Spinnaker 385 sq ft. Roller reefing, Self-bailing cockpit, inboard power, extruded aluminum spar with stainless steel rigging, bronze rudder shaft and bearings, sleeps four, wood cabinets, marine head, complete galley. ~end editor's note.

From: Jim/Kate Hauser/Hunter khunter@w-link.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 34 info?, Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 3:10 AM.

Hello, Just ran across your website on Cal sailboats. I agree with you on the Cal 40, but it's beyhond my budget. I've become intrigued with the Cal 34. Where on the web can I get some more information on one? Appreciate any ideas. Yours, Jim Hauser, Vashon Island, Washington

From: Chuck vanDe Wetering To: Subject: Congratulations on a nice page Date: Sunday, February 06, 2000 12:16 PM

Enjoyed looking at your boat page. Good luck covering the Cals. I will try to add you as a link on my San Juan 23 webpage if you like. Chuck Vande Wetering, PO Box 2205, Friday Harbor, Wa 98250, wwp62@interisland.net http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/5493

".All I ask is...the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking..."

From: Chris Nihill cNihill@compuserve.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 33 Sailboats, Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 11:32 AM

Listed below is a discription of the Cal 33 built in 1972 that I own...

Cal 33 Designed by Bill Lapworth and built in the 70's by the now defunct Jensen Marine in Costa Mesa, CA. makers of the popular Cal 20. Designed as raiser & cruiser, the boat specifications are as follows: length OA 32'-6, length WL 27'-6, beam 10'-4, draft 6'-0, displacement 10,000, ballast 4,800 lbs. Lead, with sail are of 536 sp. Ft. (100% foretriangle), and a 30 gal. Fuel tank. Sails usually included Main, Genoa, Spinnaker and Spinnaker Staysail. The original engine was the Atomic Four. The boat offers a 6'-1 tall, spacious interior cabin full of mahogany and a full galley with a gimballed stove.

The narrow beam and deep draft gives this boat excellent sailing performance. Offshore draft is really appreciated. Many of these boats included option's such as: wheel steering, roller reefing, hot/cold pressure water, and shore power systems. With age, the things to watch out for are soft cabin roofs and leaking portholes. Original portholes were aluminum and susceptible to corrosion. Recommend replacing Atomic Fours with the Yanmar 30GMC and adding a holding tank. If you have a monel fuel tank, clean it out prior to switching to diesel. The boat if in good condition is an simple boat and excellent value if it has been upgraded. Chris Nihill, 516-922-2435

From: vasmith vasmith@peganet.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: CAL 35, Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:12 PM

Some time ago I sent you photos, specs, etc. on the CAL 35. Did you get them?? You may want to edit your spec sheet for the boat by adding 5" draft for some models of the Mark II version. Victor. vasmith@peganet.com

Editor's note~ Yes I got them, I still have them and am trying to get a page posted on the Cal 35. It WILL happen. Sorry that it hasn't happened already. ~end editor's note.

Hello, I've been looking all over the Web for a source on Cal sailboats, but haven't found anything about the 34 footer. I certainly hope you don't mind me e-mailing you, but you're the closest I've come to finding anything on Cals's. Do you know anyone or any sight that has the spec's on the Cal 34, 1977 model? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks for your time, Bob Holloway, Sunnyvale, CA

Bob, I have information on the different 34s. I still am trying to get a page posted on the Cal 34's. It WILL happen. Sorry that it hasn't happened already.

Editor's note~ Here are some rubrail questions from previous Q&A pages. These are older posts so the phone numbers and addresses may not be good any more. Let me know... ~end editor's note.

Here's another way to tackle this deteriorated rubrail problem. Replace the molded rubber rubrails with wooden rails. These wood rubrails are easy to make, very durable and they do look great. They can be made from most any durable wood such as white oak, black locust, or even wild cherry. If you really want to spend big bucks use teak. They can be one piece or can be laminated. Dan Dalrymple, editor, Old Cal Yachts homepage.

Reply #5. I found the addresses and phone numbers of a couple manufacturers that make rubber rubrails. Salisbury makes many types of extruded rubber products for marine use. They probably have the best selection of products. They may not have an exact replacement but they would be a good bet for something that resembles the original rubrails. Their address and phone numbers: Salisbury, 7520 Long Ave, Skokie, IL 60077, voice tel 867-679-6700, FAX 867-679-2401. Salisbury would be my #1 chioce for rubrails.

Wefco Rubber Manufacturing, 21000 Osborne St. #2, Conaga Park, CA 91304, voice tel 818-886-8872, FAX 818-886-8875. They list themselves as making a product called "Boat Gunnel" but I'm not sure that they make rubrails for boats. Dan Dalrymple, editor, Old Cal Yachts homepage.

Reply #6 . Subject: Re: Cal-29 rub rail Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 08:29:45 -0400 (EDT) From: "Warren P. Hitlin", wph@aps.org , To: go2erie@bright.net

I found some info at work (an old print-out of an email). The name I have is Rudy Nickerson at DNR Marine in Massachusettes. The phone number is (508)644-3001. This print-out is dated 11/22/95 so things may have changed. I probably can find the invoice at home if the above info has changed. The rub rail cost me about $200. They are also supposed to have a wharehouse full of old Cal parts! I hope this helps, if not let me know and I'll search for the invoice.. Warren

Reply #7 . Subject: Where to buy replacement rub rail Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:06:09 -0400 From: "Thomas C. Grant" tgrant@bellsouth.net , To: go2erie@bright.net

I am a newcommer to your webpage and was looking through the old questions/answers and came across several people that were looking for rubrail. I own a CAL31 and needed replacement rub rail. The following company has the rubrail and will ship it directly to you. D&R Marine, Inc / 31J Mill Street / P.O. Box 921 / Assonet, MA 02702 . Hope this helps those looking. Tom Grant

From: Paul Pollock, mondo@aloha.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 36, Date: Saturday, February 19, 2000 1:05 AM

Dan, I have enjoyed your site very much. There does not seem to be a lot of information on Cal boats on the net and your site stands out.

I am building a site for Pikake, a Cal 36 I purchased a few months ago. The address is : http://www.aloha.net/~mondo/ , I hope to document info on the 36 as well as show my progress to restore Pikake. I wanted to ask if: 1) you have any information on Cal 36s, and 2) can I add your site to my links page. Any information you may have is appreciated. Best regards, Paul Andrew Pollock, Kailua, Hawaii,

Editors reply: Sorry Paul but I have nothing on the Cal 36 and to answer your second question, SURE! anyone that wants to add a link for my site into their site, has my permission! The more, the merrier...

From: Janhall73@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 9.2R, Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 3:19 PM

I sent you an e-mail concerning the 9.2r.... I own an much modified '83 Cal 9.2R...it is still competitive in club racing and 8-10 years ago the boat was very competitive...winning the Marblehead-Halifax...Block Island races, etc.

Cal didn't follow all of Holland's recomendations, they shortened the boom, lessened the ballast and several other design shortcuts... my boats former owner contacted Holland and brought the boat up to spec...vast improvement.

The 9.2R handles much like a J-24, quick, responsive and a bit touchy at first...a friend of mine has a Catalina 30 tall rig....and the difference between the two boats is like comparing a Porsche to a SUV! RJ Van Klootwyk, Boston, Ma

From: Carole Danek caroltim@leading.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 30 owner, Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:39 PM

We are refurbishing and are looking for any information about the 1966 Cal 30, hull number 75. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Contact or pass along any information to Tim , caroltim@leading.net

From: TAdams5535@aol.com ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 9:31 PM

Hi my name is Tom Adams and I have just purchased a cal 2-27 hull number 100. I was looking for a boat for my wife and I and partly due to your web site and all the information about cals that you offered I decided to buy one. I just happen to get lucky and found one when it was for sale. I will be sailing it around the eastern part of Lake Ontario and Henderson harbor area. Thanks for all the info on your site. I will let you know how she handles after I spend a few hours at the helm. Thanks again.

Editor's reply to Tom~ Tom, I'm sure that you will enjoy your new boat. My 2-27 was manufactured VERY close to yours. Mine's a '74. Your 2-27 might be the first one that Jensen made since they usually started numbering with a 3 digit number instead of starting with #1. What engine do you have in your Cal? Dan Dalrymple ~end editor's reply.

From: TAdams5535@aol.com , To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: Re: cal 2-27, Date: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:59 PM.

Hello again. Thanks for the reply. I know the hull number is 100 but it would be really neat to find out that it was actually the first one built. It is a 1974 and it has the Volvo Penta MD-10A as it auxiliary. I also have the original owners manual with the California address on it. It looks as thought the boat was bought in Conn., or delivered there at first and it might have spent some time in the Michigan area according to some of the papers in the portfolio that came with the boat. Hope to talk to you soon, Tom Adams

From: PJudd@jerryleigh.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 28, Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 8:08 PM.

I am searching the web for specs on a Cal 28'. I keep running into your listing on the web but can't get any other information. Do you know what the specs are? Thank you very much for any information you can give. I'm specifically interested in space below deck. Does it have a bed area below the cockpit? Can it sleep 2 couples comfortably? Patty, PJUDD@JERRYLEIGH.COM

From: HughO45166@aol.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 48, Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 8:48 PM

I'm a cal lover from way back and when it came time to unload my wetsnail I knew the next one would be a Cal. The 40's seemed too small for our family but I found a sad Cal 48 in Tampa and brought it back to Pocatello Idaho where I've been hard at it for the last 2 yrs or so. What info can i offer you? what's with 2mg web site? Get a new ISP! You may not have room for the 48 info but it is clearly the most beautuful CAL. You;re doing such a great job pulling all this together so We appreciate it. I talked to Bill Lapworth and that is his opinion so I'm glad he aggrees with me!!! How can I help you?. Try hughowens@yahoo.com. Thanks Hugh owens. Owner of Cal 48#11, KOHO

From: Kevin and Nancy Moore, knmragdoll@snowcrest.net , To: Dan Dalrymple, go2erie@bright.net, Subject: OUR CAL-25 1965 #52, Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 9:10 PM

Dan, My wife and I truly appreciate the effort you have put into your website. It is nice to find another who appreciates the old Cals as we do. We got RAGDOLL 8yrs ago, totally gutted her and basically stated from scratch. What a learning experience!!! My wife was joking one day saying "wouldnt' a tie-dye sail be cool?!" quite conservitive I said "No!!! sails are WHITE!" but as you can see... it is COOL!! Yes hand tie-dyed to my design, we get quite a few lookie loos from the rest of the boating community.

She got a new West System epoxy bottom last year, original had very few blisters. We are in Whiskeytown lake near Redding CA at the time but look forward to taking her to the bay , S.F., then down to So. CA the Channel Is. for a little scuba diving and bigger water. I have worked on many different makes of fiberglass boats doing bottom repair and glasswork, I am ever more impressed with the Cals durability and just being a tuff well built, great sailing vessel.Thanks again for a great web page, sincerely, Kevin and Nancy Moore

Editor's note~ Kevin and Nancy fowarded a photo of their Cal with the tie-dyed sail. Looks great! ~end editor's note.

From: Jim Stephens, fr8tr8@attglobal.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal36, Date: Friday, March 10, 2000 7:55 PM

Hello, I'm Jim Stephens, thanks for your informative Cal site. I just purchased a Cal 36 and will be sailing her on lake Erie. Any 36' info you have would be helpful. Any documentation i receive i will gladly share with your web site as well. Sincerely, Jim Stephens

From: J.N. , Sailoside@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: 30 CAL, Date: Monday, March 13, 2000 2:36 PM

HELP! Hi, I have a 30' cal, 1965, manufactured by Jensen marine. This boat has a full keel with barn door rudder, atomic 4, but otherwise classic cal/Lapworth designs. I have had this boat for a few years but could not find a true history about her. It originally had bright yellow gelcoat, raced about Texas and the Bahamas from 1965 through the 70's.

I do want to find the original owner and complete history of this boat, and the development of the Cal 30. There seems to be very little information about this size and model boat. Can you offer any information or avenue to the information I need?

These boats are very comfortable and fast, I can out perform most boats, up to 38' even with longer water lines and 50% more sail area. I refurbished her last year with all new wiring, r&r atomic 4, inverter, muli-battery banks, and so on. Although completely refurbished, it remains as stock looking as posable, thus I am able to register it in Fla. as an antique vessel. Thank you for your time and help. J.NeJame

From: Todd Mestrez, tmestrez@nwonline.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 39, Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:45 PM.

just wanted to drop a note saying that I love this site.... we have a Cal 39, 1971 that we race/cruise out of Sandusky Ohio, check this site when you get a chance. . http://members.xoom.com/knotaclew/ ,

From: Gerard L. Field, field.av@erols.com , To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: cal 2-227, Date: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 5:21 PM

april 19, 2000, Dan, Please advise me on the following if you can: The hoses that goes from the cockpit drains (Cal 2-27) to the exits on the lower transom are over three feet long and snake around the hull floor. Should they be this long? should,(can) they go direct without water backing up into the cockpit? Should there be some dip in the hoses like the plumbing under a sink in a house?

I am trying to get a traveler on the transom top. This requires a compound curve of the track: about 3 inches horizontally and about 3 inches vertically as the transom curves fore and aft and up and down. Is there anyone who has the drawings and the know-how to make me a traveler track? The local riggers go glassy eyed when they see the job, Harken says they will bend the track for me if I send them the track and a template of the shape. Maybe a cal 2-227 owner you knowabout has a track like that and lead me to where I can get one. Thanks. regards, Gerard L. Field From: Dan and Karen Dalrymple To: Gerard L. Field Subject: Re: cal 2-27 traveler Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 7:00 PM

Editor's reply~ Gerard, Again, about the cockpit drain hoses, I was just looked on my boat 2-27 and they neatly go from the cockpit drains, thru a 90 degree bend and directly out the transom. No long snake, no loop. Each one is only about a foot long. Water has never come up into my cockpit. A word of caution. My drain tubes are of a corrigated style that cannot be terminated, only in certain places. Maybe this is the reason that your's are so long.

I CAN help you with your traveler. For what it's worth, I unbolted my transom mounted traveler in order to repair a crack in the glass under it. Even though the traveler was bent in two directions, as soon as it was unbolted from the transom, it became a straight piece. I can't tell you the brand name but it was probably original Jensen Marine installed equipment. I couldn't believe that after 23 years of being bent, that it became as straight as a ruler when it was unbolted. I marked it on the bottom so that I could install it exactly as original, not to bend it opposite for the next 23 years. ~end editor's reply.

From: Gerard L. Field, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Friday, April 21, 2000 10:41 AM

dan, thanks for your reply.

i see that the drain hoses are corrogated but have straight ends to fit onto the through-hull fitting.

the traveler track i bought is the latest harken stuff and i will probably have to have it bent to fit. i will have to make a template showing the length of the track and the max chord, vertically and horizontally.

incidentally, i have the original owners manual, such as it is, for this boat. if you want a copy, send me an address and i will send you one. sincerely, gerard field

From: Best, Thomas , Thomas.Best@puc.state.tx.us , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 20, Date: Thursday, April 20, 2000 5:57 PM

Any idea how much torque to apply to a Cal 20 keel bolt? I bought new ones from Steve Seal and he doesn't know. Also, is 5200 an appropriate material for the seal between keel and hull? Thanks in advance, Tom

Editor's note --> About the torque, I don't know either but there are charts that give torque settings on bolts in general, just choose the metal type and size. About the 5200, I've used it under the waterline with NO problems. I think it is EXACTLY what you need to bed your keel. Great stuff, that 3M 5200. <-- end note.

From: finbeven, finbeven@email.msn.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 40's, Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 8:27 PM

Editor's note~ This was a lengthy email but VERY interesting. See my comments at bottom of this email. ~end editor's note.

To: Dan Dalyrmple, Dan...As you can see from the following, I am something of a Cal 40 fanatic. One of the other owners created the spec. list. I just filled in the blanks.

SPECS and OWNER DATA, 1965 Cal 40 "Radiant", Owner Name: Fin Beven, Owner E-mail: finbeven@MSN.com , Other Owner Info for Contact (Optional ) Fin Beven, 77 N. Oak Knoll, Pasadena, CA

Interesting Data, BOAT DATA, Boat Name: Radiant Sail #7124, Year 1965, Hull Number 24, Previous Names: Holiday Too, Previous Owers: Bob Allen, Ken Croan . I bought the boat in 1980.

History Races /Results: Skip & Scott Allen won Transpac in '67; They won several class championships, as did Ken Croan. We've won twice, and still hunting for #3. The boat won the Congressional Cup when sailed by Scott Allen in '67, Skip Allen in '68, Dick Deaver in '76, and Ted Turner in '77. \(I did the bow in '68 and '76).

History Cruising /Destinations: Original Delivery Port : Newport Beach, CA, Boat Now Laying: Los Angeles Harbor, Los Angeles Yacht Club, PHRF Rating - 111 LA Harbor. Base rating is 114.

Other Interesting Data: In 1983 the boat was stripped of all exterior hardware, teak trim, portholes, mast & rig and trucked to Dennis Choat's (Dencho) shipyard in Long Beach. Distressed non-skid was ground off, boot-stripe was re-drawn as straight-and level, topsides were faired and painted with LP, and new non-skid was applied in the "stock" pattern. (we have re-LP'd twice since then)

BOAT STATUS If Modified or Repaired or Known Weakness, Please Describe, No structural modifications.

RIGGING: Mast: Replaced as stock following dismasting in 1969., Mast Tune: Currently plumb, as far forward as possible at the partners. All halyards are internal (an easy modification which I did the first year we had the boat).

Spreaders: Aluminum. (I was nearly dismasted on a San Francisco Cal 40 in 1969 when the leeward spreader broke at the bolt-line that holds it to the spreader bracket).

Standing Rigging: All rod (I was replacing anyway, it's easy to clean, and shines like crazy. Very "Radiant". As with many of our local racers, the forward lowers have been removed. I recently removed the tangs as well (obvious toe-stubbers, and unattractive) My plan is to move the upper terminal for the standard lower to the forward hole at the spreader bracket, leaving the aft hole for runners or lazy-jacks, depending.

Running Rigging: Wire/dacron main halyard & dacron headsail and spinnaker halyards for cruising, mostly Spectra for racing (minimal stretch and it doesn't absorb water). The "good stuff" (even the main-sheet) is always put away after races, so it should last a long time). > Mast Winches: Nearly standard, mast mounted. Spinlock flat-mounted jammers for spinnaker halyard and topping lift. And old Shaeffer jammer and ball-swedge for the main halyard. Because most of our racing is short-course, windward-leeward, so we generally run with just one genoa and one spinnaker halyard.

Boom: We replaced the old roller-reefing boom with a new one by Sparcraft in 1985. We had "ears" welded on the mast to accept the boom and vang attachments. Main-sheet runs internal, as does the outhaul, reef, and flattening reef.

Spinnaker Pole: We use a 3" alum. pole, set up for dip-pole jibes. It's too small for ocean racing, but OK for our short leeward legs and at 18 pounds, the foredeck is happy..

Main Sheet: Stock 4:1 to a self-tailing Barient 18 mounted on the cabin-top, out-board of the main hatch slide. Traveler is a continuous line to an Antall "box" (a continuous line winch) that is mounted on the aft side of the cabin, just out-board and to port of the main hatch-way. It is operated by a standard winch-handle. Lots of leverage, easy to shift in the tacks, but you can't "pump the main" with it. We have the solid Hall-Spars vang to provide constant leach tension, and its a very neat installation with all lines running below-deck. The roller-bearing traveler is mounted on the forward edge of the stern seat. This permits a full cushion across the back, and the main-sheet doesn't interfere with using (sunning) on that seat when we're reaching home from a weekend at Catalina.

Vang: Hall Spars

Running Backs: none, as yet.

Backstay: Navtech Hydraulic...Works fine. We seem to be faster with less pressure. 1200# at 10 kts TWS, Roller Furling: No. It seems like you need more headsail selection for efficient sailing, racing or cruising. Besides, I've still got two kids who'll help me fold sails. We have a double-groove head-foil and capacity for dual genoa halyards.

Cutter Rig: Years ago I re-cut an old 200% genoa into a Jib-Top and a staysail out of an old light 150. The staysail was flown off of the topping lift. It seemed pretty fast, but only worth the effort on an ocean race. I consigned it to the re-sale loft several years ago. I'd replace it with quality sails if we ever start ocean racing.

Chain Plates, Stock, (forward-lower tangs removed as indicated above).

STRUCTURAL- DECK HULL COMPONENTS: Beam (Steel) Looks OK, except for some rust on the tab in the head from head over-spray. I coated the tab with rubberized caulking. Rudder: Stock, but we had quite a bit of horizontal and vertical "play" at the rudder shaft. I replaced the spacer-rings under the rudder head with teflon rings, and the guys at Cabrillo Boat yard shimmed the rudder shaft. I think that they used a mixture of graphite and resin, though I not clear about the process, though I think that they essentially plugged the bottom with the rudder and greased-up shaft in place, and then poured in the resin mixture from the top. Note: I and several others are in the process of buying a new rudder designed by Carl Schumacher. Slightly narrower, slightly deeper, elliptical, more balanced. Hatches: Stock , but all have been re-built a time or two. Dorade Box: We have solar powered Nico-Marine mushrooms near the mast and in the stern hatch cover Decking: Minor spider webbing filled and refinished, replaced nonskid surface. Deck Hull Joint: Teak was removed, joint was pried apart where practical, and seam re-caulked with something similar to 5200. Bulkheads: OK Bulkhead tabbing: OK Decking Plywood: OK Hull: After years of basically ignoring the 100 or so blisters that we had, and with the possibility that the hull had never been stripped, we went down to bare glass and fixed the blisters 3 years ago. Topsides: Sterling. Keel: Same as hull, Tiller: Just being replaced with laminated teak, as the old one was de-laminating at back end. The tip of the new tiller will be faired into a horizontal "T", just wide enough to support the female plug-fitting for the removable tiller extension. Tiller Bracket (the casting that holds it to the rudder-head) Significant cracks just forward of the bolt that holds it to the rudder head. I just had a new SS bracket welded.

Life Lines: Double life-lines, gate with fore-and-aft support struts at center of boat, each side. Easiest location for boarding, rafting, and it keeps the wet swimmers out of the cockpit. Swim Ladder: I had a custom ladder built. Stainless tubes with teak treads. It does not fold, so the bottom steps don't rock up. And, the bottom two steps are just the stainless tubes (no teak treads), so waves and current can roll through without causing the ladder to slam against the hull. It stores easily in the "junk bunk" (stbd. side torpedo berth). Toe Rail: Stock Teak, but I couldn't stop the fastener-bleeding problem, so I replaced it 3 years ago. Port lights: replaced with Go-Marine, Portholes : replaced with Lewmar, Headliner None, Penetrating bolts screws have "sex-nuts" (basically, a threaded barrel with a screw-head) flush to headliner to help protect scalps and look good. It's been faired and painted with LP, as has the rest of the interior painted surfaces. Gel Coat: LP, Sterling. Through Hulls: Mostly Marlon (Forespar "plastic")

Other Info. COMPARTMENTS / STATIONS: Stair/Engine Box: Small mahogany box, formica top, Stainless steel ladder with teak treads. Anchor Locker Stock. Ice Box: Stock box, Norcold 12V. refrigeration, liquid-foam insulation on all sides and under. Closed-cell foam on lid and under counter. Head: Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper. Robust, but uses a lot of water. Pumps into a custom-fitted 20 gal. stainless holding tank in lower portion of the hanging locker. Drawers: Stock. V Berth: Major rebuild. The original owners had removed the port-side cabinet before the '67 Transpac. I cut out most of the shelf on each side, leaving a 2" wide flange. I then built non-storage partitions on each side, wider aft, to re-shape the bed space into more of a rectangle. I raised the level of the berth approx. 4'. Because the boat gets wider as it goes up, this increased the width of the berth at the forward end (and it increased the storage under the bunk). I extended the length of the bunk approx. 6" down the center. This still left room to stand in the forward cabin area, and the raised height of the berth makes entry and exit through the hatch somewhat easier. This arrangement left space for a small seats port and starboard with storage under. With the 4" firm mattress it's a comfortable bed. We sleep with our heads forward where the bulkhead separating it from the anchor locker works like a head-board, and each side has a halogen reading light. Galley: Stock. Sole: Stock. Stern Lazarette: Essentially stock with wooden hangers installed for rope storage. In the area that is under the aft seat of the cockpit I have installed a "well" to hold two 1.2 gal. alum. propane tanks. Access to this "well" is through a round, gasketed port cut in the seat. All of my engine gauges are mounted in the aft wall of the cockpit...you can actually see them from the driving position. I only wish that I could have them read out through my Signet "Smart Pack" instruments, but more on that later. Because of our small engine box, we just have a fixed window where the original instrument panel used to be. Hanging Locker: As mentioned above, s/s holding tank just below the lip of the locker door. Above that are two shelves, one at about the level of the lip, and on half-way between there and the deck. I'm something of a nut about things being put away, so when we have guests aboard, the can keep their sea-bags and other gear on these shelves.

Chart Desk: Stock configuration on ice-box surface. In forward ½ of outboard storage we have 2 shelves for glasses and coffee mugs. Slots have been cut in the aft ½ to hold the most-often-used liquor bottles. Sliding plexiglass hides it all. The aft wall has the Cruising Equipment battery monitor, the Garmin GPS plotter, stereo, permanently mounted cell phone, and VHF.

Torpedo Berths: Starboard: most of the excess woodwork for the old engine housing has been removed, leaving a very clean, clear area aft. Just inside the berth area is my circuit breaker panel (AC and DC). The panel is fastened to the fore-and-aft bin-divider at the bottom, and to the inside of the cockpit molding at the top. The panel is about 18" wide, running fore-and-aft. Mounted to the inside of the bin-divider are the battery charger, the refrig. compressor, the amps for the stereo, and the "brain" for the cell-phone. The CD changer is mounted under the deck. We never sleep in this bunk (which we refer to as the "junk-bunk"). It has no cushion, but is covered with indoor-outdoor carpet. Port: The bin-divider has been removed and the outboard portion filled in to create a near-double bunk. The aft portion of the bunk wraps around the back side of the engine box to further widen the bunk. (Obviously, the fuel tank is no longer here. It's in the bilge). Slide-Out berths: Stock. Pilot Berth: Stock.

INSTRUMENTATION : NEXUS. We have three "jumbos" mounted on the aft side of the mast, just below the goose-neck. Their wires lead into the mast and down to a junction box in the head, then aft to the "brain-box". The GPS is integrated into this so that I can get all speed/wind/nav information from these on-deck presentations. The numbers are big enough to be easily readable from the back of the boat, so anyone standing aft of the mast can see them. And rarely is anyone standing or sitting in front of them.

AUXILLARY POWER: Engine: Grey Marine 4 banger, flat head, gas. Engine Controls: Morse removable-handle shifter on starboard side of cockpint well; push-pull cable for throttle control mounted at forward left corner of cockpit well. Transmission "V" Drive Standard Propeller Martec Folding, Two blade.

TANKAGE: Fuel Tank: Fuel Tank, Aluminum, 35 gallon in bilge. Fills through a long, 1" hose from starboard deck just aft of the cabin, and then leads down just behind the engine and through the port-side engine mount and down into the bilge to the tank. The aft edge of the tank is about 1' forward of the aft edge of the lead. Two 4D gel batteries sit (one on top of the other) on that remaining 1', and are cantalevered over the bilge, supported by a ¼" piece of "G-10" (factory formed fiberglass) cut to the shape of the bilge, and supported at the back end by a s/s wire up to the cabin sole. The fuel tank has a 1" dip-stick access port. It's cap is just barely above the hole cut for it in the cabin-sole and the carpet. To verify fuel level we just remove the cap and "stick" the tank with a ¼" dowel. Water Tank: 16 gallon s/s tanks under each slide-out bunk. These are pressure-fed from a female hose fitting in the cockpit and vented back to the same area. When both vents start to "spit", the tanks are full. These tanks feed the galley elect. pump. 20 gallon bladder in head cabinet which feeds the electrical pump for the head faucet and the deck-shower (a 3" x 14' ABS tube, fresh pressure water into the aft end, a 6' hose and shut-off sprinkler-head at the forward end). This set-up produces plenty of warm, fresh water for a quick rinse-off after the day's swimming. Holding Tank: 20 gal s/s tank with float-monitor in bottom of hanging locker. There is just enough room to run a 1 ½" hose under the "bridge" that supports the mast. And while I'm in the area, we used to get trapped water under the mast, in that "well" you can reach from under the head. While the bilge-fuel tank was out, all I had to do was drill a few holes in the block of wood they put in there during construction. Now it drains just fine.

ELECTRICAL: Charging: Engine Driven: 100 amp alternator controlled by a Cruising Equipment Co. "Amp Hour + 2" voltage regulator/battery monitor. Shore charging: Newmar 15 amp. charger. Battery System: 2 @ 4D Gel's (180 amp hour each) mounted in the bilge as discussed above. Because we have an easy-to-start gas engine, because we are a sail boat, and (worst case) because we have a "Vessel Assist" program, I am inclined to use both batteries (Set on "ALL") most of the time. I watch the voltage rather closely over the days on-board, and when it gets down below 12V, we charge, and get the efficiency of charging relatively low batteries. Generally, we can go for 2 days easily without charging, and while running 12V refrigeration, stereo, lights, etc. DC Distribution: 3 Marinetics sub-panels with six breakers on each panel. Interior Lighting: Incandescent "dome" style s/s fixtures, one on the overhead just aft of the mast (I ran its power source up through the mast and out), one under the cockpit bridgedeck, and one on each aft wall of the forward cabin for general illumination. Each bunk has an elegant ABI (1806CH-D) chrome reading lamp (20 watt halogen with dimmer). I have Aqua Signal florescents in the galley, but may change these for something with a little more light. They work OK but I really don't like the florescent color, and we have plenty of battery to support the lighting we do. AC Electrical System: Shore power circuited through a Marinetics AC panel with double-pole master breaker, polarity indicator, and 4 sub-breakers. It then powers the AC/DV refrigeration, the 115V outlets, the Newmar charger. Bonding: the engine and electrical panels are bonded to the one bronze through-hull for the lower port cockpit drain.

GOFAST AND MISC: Sails: All by North. Relatively flat dacron main with Kevlar at head and clew per local class limitations. Mylar 155 (weighs 35# per local class limitations). .6 Poly primary chute. .5, .75, and 1.5 Nylon back-ups. Kevlar-Mylar #2 (140%)and works great in 16 Kts+ TWS. New, and hardly used yet is a 7 oz Dacron, full-hoist "blade", which is sheeted to the middle of the deck, just aft of the mast. I think that this will be the perfect sail for 20 kts+. TWS. However, you can only sheet such a sail if you remove the forward lowers. We have a full set of cruising sails, so we wash and fold the "good stuff" after racing (we even fold the spinnakers) so they last a long time. We also have an over-sized genaker (3' wider and 3' taller than a standard 180% spinnaker). The genaker shape gives almost effortless steering on a 15 kt. TWS beam reach, and is VERY fast and VERY fun. So far, we've used it just for cruising. We fly it either off the regular pole, set low (about boom level) and we've also experimented with a "sprit" (a spinnaker pole fastened at the aft end to a heavy s/s Shaeffer pad-eye mounted to the forward starboard corner of the cabin house, and extended through the pulpit, and held down to the bow-eyes). I bent one pole doing this, even though I had reinforced it. So the concept either needs more money or more engineering, or both. Winches: the original Barient 28's as primaries (for genoa and afterguys), moved to the forward end of the winch island (they are aft in some boats which made sense in 1967 when the boats sailed with 180% genoas under the old CCA rule). Barient 25's for the spinnaker sheets, self-tailing 18 for the main, lead to the port-side cabin top. Split fore-guy: runs from a single block at the end of the pole, then down to twin blocks in the middle of the foredeck, then out-board of each stanchion back to a small Harken turning block on the deck just inside of the rail, and opposite the middle of the winch-island on each side. It then enters the winch island and secures to a jammer mounted to the inside top, just inside the teak lip. Stainless (s/s) rub-bar on the teak to protect it. With this, the person who is adjusting the afterguy can also adjust the foreguy, or it can as easily be adjusted from the other side. And because most of the foreguy path is out by the rail in the "gutter", there is rarely a "butt-cleat" problem. Generally, all deck blocks and jammers are from Harken.

Computers & Software: None.

Auto pilot: Navico, seems to work OK.

Sail Track Movement: by "screw-pin". I've considered a roller-bearing set-up, but since our racing is against other Cal-40's that also have the same set-up, I'm not sure how much relative advantage this would offer. Besides, I like the look of my polished s/s track.

Faring the keel and bottom. Yes. Heating: none. Refrigeration: Norcold, mounted in the forward-outboard corner of the box. Works great. Generally, we just take ice-cubes for cocktails when we cruise for 3-4 days.

Fire Protection: Automatic Halon system in engine compartment, Other fire extinguishers in the hanging locker, the port torpedo bunk, and under the deck just forward of the aft hatch..

Cal 40 Strategies: Beat the Eddys (Callisto, #50), and hope that Jack Woodhull (Persephone, #1) doesn't show up. In windward-leeward races, a few more bodies on the rail are fast (in L.A., at least, where we have a fairly consistent 15 kt. afternoon westerly). The basics: get the weight out of the ends, reduce weight where possible, gear break-downs are the skipper's fault, smooth bottom, good sails (with good spreader patches and spreader boots), consistent crew and practice with them, conservative tactics. Concentrate on target boat-speeds. It's easy to sail the boats either too high (and slow) after a tack, or too "hot" once you're up to speed. Know your tacking and jibing angles.

Creative Ideas: In '77 I co-skippered a 40 in the Transpac. Crew of 6. We had three relatively good drivers, so we split into three watches of 2 each, three hours on and six off. I am totally sold on the results. We were better rested, we never hesitated to get everybody up for a sail change, and we squeeked out a corrected time win by less than 1 minute after 12 days of sailing!

Editor's comments~ A 1965 Cal 40 designed by Bill Lapworth, built by Jensen Marine. RACED HARD, 35 years old, TWO time Transpac winner, Congressional Cup winner, and NO BASIC STRUCTURAL CHANGES or MODIFICATIONS! Dismasted in 1969 and (quote) " Mast: Replaced as stock following dismasting in 1969. " (unquote).

35 years of maximum sailing with no basic structural changes! That does about say it all... "Radiant", 35 years young, NO roller furling, NO wheel, still uses a tiller. Still running the original Gray Marine, gasoline, 4 banger. Basically not much more than high grade general maintenance for 35 years and she's STILL looking for that 3rd Transpac win. Did Lapworth and Jensen build a solid boat? or WHAT?

Good luck to you, Radiant. I hope that you win a couple more Transpacs in the NEXT 35 years. Someday, God willing, I'm gonna own a Cal 40. dsd ~end editor's comments.

From: Alan Aderem, aaderem@u.washington.edu ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: querie regarding Cal 2-29, Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:53 AM

Dear Dan, I wonder whether you can help out. I have a 1976 Cal 2-29 and I am trying to locate a rub rail for it. I know someone from the old Cal factory is manufacturing and selling them since this was advertised in a Cal 2-29 web site that is now defunct. Do you have any ideas as to how I might proceed. Many thanks, Alan Aderem

Editor's note~ Alan, that defunct website is probably this one right here! Sorry about that... These Q&A pages were removed for about 9 months. Anyhow, check back thru these pages for a supplier for Cal rubrail. Let me know if and where you find them, Thanks. ~end editor's note.

From: Skolnick, Robert RSkolnick@universalaccess.net, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal Q&A, Date: Monday, February 21, 2000 10:49 AM.

hi, i have a cal 28 that was built in 1965 by lapworth . i am going to host a cal page with no limit as to size. i would like to put your Q&A on my web site. if you zip and email them to me i put your website on my server for free with no limits in exchange. the web will be up by march 26. also you had a Q&A on rub rails for the cal that had the name of a marina in the Boston area.

i am restoring my 28 and need the rub rails. thank you, Robert Skolnick, email rskol@bellsouth.net or rskolnick@universalaccess.net , if you would like to see a website that i have done go to http://www.universalaccess.net

Editor's note~ I gave Robert permission to use these Q&A pages, zipped them up back in February and emailed them to Robert. I haven't heard any more from him. If anyone finds his Cal website, let me know. Thanks, dsd ~end editor's note.

From: Gerard L. Field field.av@erols.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 2-27, Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:17 PM.

Dan, I recently bought a cal 2-27, number CABCO 534. It is one of the few built without an inboard engine and it has a 10 hp Honda on the back. I intend to get back into racing as this boat seems to point high and go fast. This boat has almost no race equipment except a spinnaker track on the mast. The genoa tracks are on the toe rail and much too far out for anything.

I could use from you, if you have it, the following data:

• 1) the rig seems higher than the specs I have found: the mast seems closer to 36.5 feet from the deck. The hoist on the foretriangle, between shacles upper and lower is like 36.5 or 37 feet. Can you help me on this? Was there a short and tall rig available at that time?
• 2) The E is 12 feet on one spec, 10.3 feet on another, 10.25 feet on anothe, and 10feet 8 inches on another. Can you tell me the official ditance from the back of the mast to the black band?
• 3) The P is variously 30' 10", 30.83 feet, 30' 8". Can you tell me the official distance between the black bands on the mast?
• 4) Can you supply me with a deck layout drawing?
• 5) Can you, or do you know someone, racing a 2-27 that can give me a drawing for the layout of inboard genoa tracks? I'd like a diagram as to where to put the spinnaker turning blocks as the stern yurns in sharply in the last few feet.

I will try the boat in PHRF here, probably in the local PHRF class "C" with pearson 30's, CAT 27's and similar. As this is the light air capital of the U.S., the boat might do well. If you know of any very good, used, 2-27 spinnakers available, please let me know. Thanks for any help. Sincerely, Gerard L. Field

From: Dave Hill, dave@fairfieldautomation.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal22, Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 2:45 AM.

Hello, We purchased a 1987 Cal22 last year, but can't find any information about it. You seem to be a wealth of Cal data - is there somewhere I can turn to get some Cal 22 information?

I realize that the company has been sold (twice, I think) and that the molds are supposedly somewhere in Massachusetts or Rhode Island, but that doesn't really help me much. Do you know any Cal22 owners groups, or web sites? Thanks in advance for your help. Dave Hill, Aboard "Silent Cal" out of Black Rock Harbor, CT

From: Ellen Seh, eseh@mindspring.com, To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal page posting, Date: Saturday, April 22, 2000 3:12 PM.

Hi, Thanks for all the work on your great website! I've had my Cal 29 for almost nine years now, and the love affair is still going strong.

For all this time, though, I've never located her keel bolts (am I embarrassing myself with this question?), and haven't had anyone else succeed in identifying them for me. Anyone know where the keel bolts are on the Cal 29? Also, are there any Cal 29 Associations or groups out there, whether virtual or real? Thanks, in advance,

Ellen ~~~~_/)~~~~

Editor's note~ Ellen, I don't think that your Cal 29 HAS any keel bolts! My Cal 2-27 looks like it was laid up with the keel as a part of the lay-up. The lead must be lowered into the glass keel cavity after the hull is complete. This is a much better way to build a sailboat as it eliminates all the keel bolt problems and also allows the lead ballast to be placed in a lower, more foward position. ~end editor's note.

From: EDITOR, old Cal Yacht site, Dan Dalrymple

FOR SALE ... Volvo-Penta MD-10A inboard engine, transmission, shaft & prop package for sale. Will fit Cal 24, Cal 25, Cal 27, Cal 29. see BELOW

This inboard engine package that I'm selling includes the MD-10A Volvo four stroke, two cylinder, 15 horsepower gasoline engine, transmission, engine control panel, shaft, prop, strut, fuel tank, distributer, water pump, exhaust system, and cockpit controls. It's perfect for a new installation or cheap enough for a "parts" engine for someone who already owns one of these.

$595 plus actual shipping costs to your area is my asking price. No handling or other hidden charges. I'll package it up and prepare it for shipment free of charge. It weighs over 300 pounds so will need to ship by motor freight. I removed this Volvo Penta MD-10A from my own Cal 2-27. It was running perfectly when removed. It was the BEST starting engine I've ever owned. If you're interested or have any questions just leave an email (mailbox, bottom of this page) for me.

I updated to a Mercury 4 stroke outboard. Believe me, if I could have purchased a nice little running "spare" like this one, for this low price, I would have kept my inboard. I tried to buy one of these engines for parts from a east coast yard. They wanted $1200 plus shipping for an engine that wasn't even running when they removed it!. This one runs perfectly! It drips a little oil into the belly pan and the generator section of the starter/generator doesn't work. If you already own one of these dependable little engines, then you know what a "sweety" she is. This would make a perfect spare "drop in" engine/tranny or simply a cheap "parts" source.

FOR SALE ... Volvo-Penta MD-10A inboard engine, transmission, shaft, prop package for sale. see ABOVE.

From: Marco Coda sail@landsend.bc.ca To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: O'Day 322 Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 1:56 PM

Hello, I have just visited several of your sailing pages and really enjoyed them. To me Cals have always had a great reputation as strong well built sailboats. Do you have any information on the O'Day 322 and it's quality of construction. I'm speculating that since Bangor Punta owned Cal and O'Day that their quality should be similar. Any ideas or thoughts on this would be appreciated. Sincerely, Marco Coda

From: Hugh Owens hughowens@juno.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: HI there, i got a cal 48 website, Date: Saturday, March 18, 2000 3:08 AM.

hi, i have a cal 48 website, it is almost completed. It has quite a bit of information and pictures. Hans, webmaster.

From: jack hamel usjack@hotmail.com To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 46, Date: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 9:29 PM

I'm interested in any info on the cal 46 or the Cal 46 Cruising Assn. Thank you. Jack

From: Erling H. Heistad Erling.H.Heistad@Dartmouth.EDU To: go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: old cal 27/1970, Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 11:06 PM

--- Forwarded Message from Kim V. Rheinlander --- Hi Dan, I have delighted in sailing my cal 27 for the last 8 years in the gulf of maine and the bay of fundy. From Mass. to Nova Scotia. I would love a little help in figureing what one she is. She doesn't seem to fit into the three hull types you mention. She is hull 70104, has a beam of 8'4" pop top with a Danish Vire 12 IB. I understand that she had origionaly had a Vire 7. Which design do you think she is? Do you know what PHRF rating she would have? displacment? sail area? hull speed?

I love her and we have sailed her to the cold Canadian water each summer . She is small for a cabin heater, but on the other side, the bay of fundy keeps the drinks very cool in the bilge with out useing any ice. I would love to know what her rating is. We have very often been asked as we do very well when sailing with some much larger boats. I love your webbsite but i was not able to respond to your active mail box so i copied your address and I am sending this via regular E-mail. thanks, erling

I emailed Erling and asked him to double check the beam on this boat.

(Erling's second email) Hi Dan, I just got a chance to go to the boat to check the beam and it is in fact a nine foot . What is the beam of the later boats? Do you have any information at all on the early ones? This is hull #104. Do you know of any one else that has one? This one has a flip top not a sliding hatch on the pop top. I think that later ones had a sliding hatch. Before I got mine I remember seeing one that had a light over the galley. perhaps a later add on. Any specks that you have would be appreciated. great little boat. erling

Editor's note: The nine foot beam proves that this is one of the first Cal designs. The 2-27 has a 9 foot 3 inch beam.

From: Steve Podowitz podowitz@mediaone.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal's bigger boats? Date: Friday, May 05, 2000 12:59 PM.

I'm interested in the Cal Cruising series -- the first boat, the Cal Cruising 46 motorsailer was intriguing; later boats also fascinating but not as original. Do you have anything on her? does anybody on the web?

From: Mary Baskerville mmamah@usa.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: cal 39/40, Date: Friday, May 05, 2000 1:06 PM.

hello, i recently bought a cal 39, but i believe it is a 40 because of the info i found here. what i want to know is if you could send me, via snail mail, any info on a cal 40 interior layout so i can rebuild mine, plus any running rigging info and layout. my address is cal owner, 2500 samish way #53,bellingham, wn. 98226. thank you so verry much.

Editor's note: I emailed Mary to tell her that I would send the small amount of information that I have, never recieved a reply.

From: Eric Elwell eric.elwell@iol-12.net To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: CAL Website... Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 10:21 AM.

Thank you for your very informative site on a boat that is somewhat mysterious and hard to find info on these days. I have just purchased a 1984 Cal 24-2 (I think!), laid out like the line drawings of your Cal 24 site. All specs seem to match. Line drawing in my docs. credits C. Raymond Hunt & Asso. for the design... is that true? Were they just the 'marine architect' of record at the time mine was produced? Warm regards, Eric Elwell, eric.elwell@iol-12.net

From: Mary Griffiths Mary.Griffiths@AeroTaxi.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 4:29 PM.

Hello, My husband and I are thinking of sailing our Cal 9.2 around the world someday and would like any advice you may have. It's always interesting to hear what people have to say about sailing a 7,000 lb. boat across an ocean. Mary

From: Jim Mast jsmast@swbell.net ,To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Balboa, Date: Friday, May 12, 2000 8:59 PM.

Dan, I am looking for information concerning the Balboa motorhome that I understand was made by Jensen Marine. Do you have any idea where I might contact the former owners about there RV molds? If you could point me in the right direction... Thanks in advance, Sincerely, Jim Mast, Houston, TX

From: Jephotog@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Sailboat info, Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 4:20 PM.

Hi Dan, I discovered your web sight about Cal 27s and further found more info on other boats as well. I am in the process of doing research on boats in the 26-28 foot range. Some of the boats of interest to me are the Cal 27 and Catalina 27. Since you have owned both boats and have the only web-site I can find dedicated to the Cal 27, I was hoping you could answer some questions on these two boats concerning their traits and differences? Thanks, Jordan Epstein, Jackson, Wy.

The Cal sailed stronger... The Catalina was prettier. Catalina survived the new 10% Federal Excise Tax that President Ronald Reagan allowed to be imposed on our US sailboat industry in the late 1980s but Cal didn't... Cal went broke, along with about a hundred other US boat manufacturers, including Cape Dory, Lancer, Irwin, S-2, and Gulfstar. Even though the unjust excise tax was quickly repealed, our US sailboat manufacturing industry has never recuperated from it. The French, Swedes, British and Aussies are now far ahead of us in sailing technology. If they weren't, we'd have our America's Cup back! Sorry to be blunt but it still upsets me that President Reagan let that unfair Federal Excise Tax cross his desk without a veto. He hurt our boating industry and he hurt American labor.

From: KP C kpc3@hotmail.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal20, Date: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 2:52 AM.

Dan, I came across your Cal boat web site and thought you might be interested in my Cal 20 "Chalupa". Please check out my web site - CruiseWeb at: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/5471 http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/5471/cal20.htm There are some photos and line drawings of the Cal20. Feel free to use the line drawings if you like. Enjoyed reading about all the Cal boats on your sites. Thanks. KP Chin

From: RCcaptain@aol.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 24 ruddder post bushing, Date: Sunday, May 21, 2000 2:12 PM.

Ahoy there, My name is Rich, and I own a Cal 24 on Long Island Sound in Ct. The rudder post has side to side play in it as if a bushing is worn. My ? is is this a major problem, how do you fix it, and where do I purchase the parts. If I remove the tiller will the rudder & post fall out? Do I have to haul the boat? Can I just hold the rudder up and replace the bushing while the boats in the water? Do you have any good parts connections? Any and all input is appreciated. Great web site, any others you know of? Thanks for your help, Rich

Editor's note: Yes, it IS a major problem because it'll drive you nuts during rough weather. My Cal 2-27 was the same way. There are no parts, no bushings, that I know of. Yes, the rudder will probably fall out if you remove the cap while in the water! Yes, the boat needs to be out of the water for this repair. Actually the rudder shouldn't fall out since they are usually originally designed to be lighter than water. They should float but most have absorbed water thru the years and will sink.

Here's how I fixed my sloppy rudderpost on my Cal 2-27. Pull the boat, drop the rudder. Coat the stainless steel rudderpost liberally with fiberglass mold release agent. Swab out the inside of the rudder tube with a swab soaked in acetone. Allow to dry, sand inside of rudder tube with 100 grip sandpaper. (use a drill/wood dowel with sandpaper attached) Re-insert the rudder, center the rudderpost in the tube. Apply modeling clay under the bottom of the rudder tube to seal the bottom of the tube liquid-tight. Mix epoxy resin, slow hardener, and graphite powder and pour into the top of the rudder tube, around the rudderpost. Pour the rudderpost tube full of this epoxy mixture. Allow to harden then force the rudderpost to break loose.

The rudderpost may be snug at first but it should soon loosen. If it doesn't, you may need to remove the rudder and ream the tube slightly with fine sandpaper. Mine loosened up fine. All these fiberglass supplies can be purchased cheaply thru www.raka.com . Raka's fiberglass products are great and only cost about a third of most local prices. No, I do NOT work for Raka. They're just nice people with good, inexpensive products ans a nice website. Quick UPS shipping too.

Tips: Be sure to use a fairly slow hardener since you sometimes are pouring a pretty thick layer of epoxy. A fast hardner could cause the poured bearing to heat and ruin the quality of the finished epoxy bearing. Also be very careful while pouring the epoxy/graphite mixture. It is COAL BLACK and will stain anything that it touches. COVER your topsides to protect them.

From: Bill Crawford crawford@pacificrim.net , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Beam on early Cal 27, Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 11:35 AM

Hi Dan, Thanks for the CAL info you put on the net. A friend is selling his Cal 27 and I'm thinking about buying, your WEB site has gone far to help me understand the history behind these boats (The Cal line is new to me, we have been sailing a Catalina 22 for years and that was the only brand I have done any research on).

I believe my friends boat was one of the first 27' made by Cal/Jensen, year is 1970 and hull number is #10. You say on your WEB site that the first model (Cal 27) had a beam of only 8', but this boat has a beam of 9'. I see where someone in your Q&A section (Section 2, a posting from Gina Downing) is claiming that her early model Cal 27 also has a beam of 9'. Any ideas about why the discrepancy? Just wondering if I'm not looking at what I think I'm looking at. Thanks! Bill Crawford, possible future Cal 27 owner. Ferndale, Washington. crawford@pacificrim.net

Editor's note: The answer to this one was simple... I WAS WRONG ! Boy, I don't know where I came up with that 8 foot beam figure! I also never realized that anyone ever really READS all this stuff that I type into this website. The beam of the first Cal 27 design was 9 feet even. Thanks Bill. Good luck with your Cal purchase. Dan Dalrymple, Wooster, Ohio. Editor of the Sailing Old Cal Yachts website.

From: Bill Crawford crawford@pacificrim.net , To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple go2erie@mail.bright.net, Subject: Marine head available? in early Cal 27. Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 6:58 PM.

Hi Dan, I THINK you are saying on the call27all page that the marine head did not appear until model 2-27 (that is not exactly what you said, but I think that is what you are implying when you talk about the new features of the 2-27). The current owner says his 1970 Cal 27 came with a marine head (he purchased the boat in 1978 from the original purchaser, and the marine head was installed at that time). Or so he thinks. I've seen the fiberglass ledge to hold the marine head that appears to have been a part of the original manufacture and designed to hold the marine head (it is part of the liner that makes up the V Berth surface), and I have seen the through-hull fittings for seawater and discharge.

When it became illegal to discharge within 3 miles of shore, he pulled the marine head and put in a porta pottie (did not want to give up storage space for the holding tank that would be required to keep the marine head legal), so all that is left to see is the ledge and the capped through-hull fittings. Thanks again! Bill Crawford

Editor's note: Thanks again, bill. Actually, I wasn't insinuating that the early 27 didn't offer a marine head, I just worded it poorly. I'll just post this email to correct things.

By-the-way, I did exactly the same thing with my direct discharge marine head. I installed a porta-potty. I like it a LOT better (for my use) than an internal holding tank. We don't use it often but when we do, there are plenty of porta-potty dumps in our area. Mostly we just use the head/showers in my marina. Spotlessly clean and they work just like the ones we have at home.

From: mark@ao.com , To: go2erie@bright.net, Subject: Cal 246 Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 11:56 AM

How do I find the 246 owners group?

Old Cal Yachts webpage. A webpage, edited by Dan Dalrymple, and dedicated to one of the greatest Sailboat designers in the world, Bill Lapworth, who designed the Cal 40 in 1963. The Cal 40 remains a great sailboat design to this very day. Someday I'm gonna own one. Dan Dalrymple

Return to my Old Cal Yachts page. This is where you just came from. It contains facts and information on Jack Jensen, Bill Lapworth and Cal Yachts.

Return to the index of my website. This index will guide you to all parts of this website including my Favorite Lake Erie boats. My Cal Yachts Question and Answer (Q&A) pages, muzzle loading ballistics, my webpage on herbal cures and more...

If you want to post or reply to this Q&A page, click here to send me an email. All comments are hand-posted and may be slightly edited. If you want an email posted here, use -Post on Q&A- as the subject, Include your return email address in the text.

I'm a Cal 31 owner, a 1980. It's got a Universel diesel #5416, 16 hp, and a 135 Genoa. The CQR anchor is too big for the anchor locker. I'd be glad to hear about anchor storage solutions. I've seen a large Danforth hooked to the pulpit of one.

The teak cabinetry in older Cal 31s, i.e. 1979, 1980, models has more finish: lathe-turned work and cabinet doors. The keel also seems deeper than in mid-80s models, which are also longer, fore and aft. I've heard that manufacturing switched to RI and FL around 1980.

The 31 is actually 31' 6" and it's not a bluewater design. It is tender, heels way over going upwind at 15 kts. The cockpit is not large, thanks to a roomy salon, which also has cabinetry port & starboard of the companionway, so no quarterberth. Its PHRF rating ranges from 156 to 165, which is on the fast side for a cruising boat. Practical Sailor Magazine's review was very favorable. About 360 Cal 31's were produced from 1979 to '85 or '86.

I'd be glad to correspond with other owners, to discuss a whole bunch of questions.

Nearer you than me is an extremely attractive Cal 31 for sale - always stored indoors, a 1979 that hasn't seen daylight since '92, a one-owner boat. A "seriously motivated seller", due to illness, is at the low end of asking prices, 24.9k ... - Chris Barr, Boston, MA cbarr@mediaone.net

On this page I also have a link to the Cal 25 Fleet page, a page dedicated to the preservation of the Cal 25. Mike Hoffman

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:29:10 -0500, From: chris barr cbarr@mediaone.net , Reply-To: cbarr@mediaone.net, X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0, To: Dan and Karen Dalrymple go2erie@bright.net , Subject: [Fwd: Things that go "POP".] ,

While returning from the Coastal Cup race this year a potentially lethal incident occurred. As all of you California coast sailers know, Point Conception is the battleground of colliding currents and winds. Always a bouncy ride, this year saw broken booms and thrashed sails during the race. The same conditions existed when it was time to take PERPETUAL MOTION, a Cal 31, back home to the Bay Area. This boat had been carefully prepared and equipped for this ocean race in challenging conditions. All proceeded as planned as we motor sailed up the Santa Barbara channel.

The swell grew increasing large and steep as we approached Pt. Conception. Just as we encountered the wind shift line we went over a particularly steep wave. The boat fell several feet and "belly flopped" in the next trough. Not the worst smack the boat had taken, but still bone jarring and rig shaking. The Skipper was putting on his foulies at the time and said with complete calm "We are taking on water!". The three of us looked at each other with that "nooooo" look. By now the cabin was flooding rapidly. Ice coolers, emergency life raft, shoes and anything else on the sole of the cabin was now floating.

The owner/skipper dove in to the cabin and started yanking access panels, sail bags, fenders and all the other carefully stowed stuff out of the way. He started in the stern, looking for the huge flow of seawater pouring in. In the meantime I started steering for the beach (5 miles away) while the remaining man madly pumped. The raft came out on deck as we all made eye contact. In a couple of more minutes we were going to need that raft if we didn't stop the flooding! As the water reached the settee level the skipper worked his way to the forward through-hulls that served the head.

The through-hull had been pushed right through the hull, tearing off the reinforcement fiberglass pad. Close inspection of the fitting and pad showed that the original hole had been cut oversized. To fix the problem the boat builder had simply resigned in the bronze fitting and slapped some glass cloth over the inside of the hull as reinforcement. That would probably have held, except for the hull paint that wasn't removed before glassing on the pad. Resin doesn't stick to paint very well and as the boat smashed down on the water the hydraulic pressure punched in the fitting.

Was this defect visible to an inspection, no! The boat had been raced in San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean for years without a problem. Cal 31s are known for solid construction quality and this boat was in excellent condition.

This incident occurred in daylight and clear skies. It was windy (21kts and rising) with 10-12 foot seas but nothing unusual for the ocean. Had this occurred at "dark 30" we might have lost the boat because the flooding would have remained undiscovered until the off-watch crew floated off their bunks.

What did we learn from this incident? The value of a hammer and wooden plugs. The package says, "these could save your boat", believe that! Having all the possible leak points in the hull know by every crew member is vital if you are going to find the source of massive flooding in time. It truly was amazing how fast the boat was filling through a hole the size of a donut!

My wife and I hope to join the list of LiveAboards and cruisers next year after my retirement. Mike and Nancy

Editor's note: Good luck in your retirements. My thruhull fittings are 23 years old now so this spring's projects on my Cal 2-27 will include removing the three thruhulls in the head compartment since I now have a holding tank. that'll eliminate two of them and I'll also run the drain from the washbasin in the head area into the bilge. We don't use that basin very often. I should only have two thruhulls left, engine intake and galley sink. I'll probably end up running the galley sink into the bilge also since I don't use the sink much. The only problem with this is that sink drainage might turn the bilge sour. Having only one thruhull fitting in the entire bottom of my Cal 2-27 will be worth taking a chance on a sour bilge.

From: PalmerCrk@aol.com Received: from PalmerCrk@aol.com by imo20.mx.aol.com (IMOv18.1) id IIQDa07123 for go2erie@bright.net ; Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:53:27 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: 83d4afcd.366a29e7@aol.com Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:53:27 EST To: go2erie@bright.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: cal specs

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 10:29:42 -0500 From: Chris Collins c.collins@asee.org Organization: ASEE X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Cal 2-27

Dan, I was just on your Cal web site and really appreciate the information you have collected. I have an opportunity to buy a beautifully maintained, loaded, 1978 Cal 2-27 for around $8,000. It's not the boat I had in mind--I tend to like the older traditional boats like the Bristols--but it's VERY nice and very roomy.

I currently have a 1993 Precision 23 (for sale, if you know anyone looking) that I love, but my wife will no longer sail on after of an encounter with a storm followed by gusty 36 knot winds. You see why I'm asking the questions above? The more comfortable my wife is the more sailing I get to do.

Thanks for any input you might have. Chris Collins c.collins@asee.org

Note: I received a jpg file from Bette, notebook.jpg, but it was only 2k and looked like the very corner of some Cal docs. Something went amiss with the jpg between here and Newport Beach, Bette. Sorry about that. Dan

Please be advised that I purchased a 87 Cal 33 last August 98. I had to redocument the vessel. I found the ID #'s (faintly) on the upper right corner of the transom and also located in an area they call the lazarette which is the locker located in the cockpit on the port side. I found the number embossed on the port hull slightly astern of the hatch opening and up where the hull meets the deck. I hope this information helps.

By the way, We are finding our Cal 33 to be wonderful beyond our expectations. We operate in and out of Narraganset bay in Newport, RI and it just loves heavy weather and passes many other sail boats even in a light breeze.

Editor's note: I replied to Mr. Niddam a couple times. I advised him that Yanmar will tell an owner what size prop to use. They need to know the type of sailboat, the waterline length, the beam, and the weight.

Steve Seal is a rigger in the San Francisco Bay Area. He has every part I have ever needed for a Cal 20 I have been sailing Cal 20's for 21 years). Some of the parts like the rub rail may be able to be used on other Cal Boats. His address is Steve Seal, 1327 Sherman Street, Alameda, CA 94501. . . (510) 521-7730 . He is honest as the day is long and comes with my highest recomendations

To the person wanting to have a sail stop. I tap a 1/4 20 screw into the slot. Be sure to use a stainless steel screw of a marine type of stainless 304 or 306 Hope this helps. Richard Taylor, Andalusia hull # 749

Hi, I got a Cal 31 3 seasons ago, here in Massachusetts. I'm pretty well starved for information on the boat and would be glad to hear about other owners, or info on the web page. My boat doesn't even have a manual, which I have seen aboard Cal 31s in brokers' yards. Mine's a 1980, which shows some signs of being built in Costa Mesa - the propane tank had a label from a local propane company, and the engine has a label from a local marine engine shop. The interior woodwork is more detailed and extensive than in an '82, and the mast is about 3' taller than the '82 and later models, with a correspondingly shorter keel, which is also longer. It has a Universal diesel model 5416.

Thanks for this web page. Brian Cleverly pointed it out to me. - Chris Barr, Boston, MA

I've got some 39-4 pics (factory shots) that I will send you and full specs, etc. Also, photos of earlier ones. Richard L. Spangenberg, mailto: rls@itweb.com

I loved your site. I am a new, last June, owner of a CAL 25. It was built in 1984. I was very interested in your history and photos.

The boat, reflections (new name), needed and still needs a lot of clean up and maintance. But I love to sail it. I have encountered two problems to date. I am large 6'3" 290#, there is no good place to sleep. I am too long for the V birth and too wide for the sides. Even my wife has trouble on the bench seats.

Dick Laughlin, Richardson Texas, Refelctions on Texoma

Editor's note: I can help on two of these three questions. About the fiberglass crack near the winch . . . Cal used a plywood core on many parts of the deck. If water leaks into this core, for example thru the winch's mounting holes, it soaks into the plywood core causing it to swell and oftentimes cracking the fiberglass. This is even more of a problem in the northern states due to the moisture expanding by freezing in the winter.

So . . . FIRST THING, find where the water is getting into the core and get it sealed! Then repair the crack by whatever means is best. I had a nasty crack under my stern pulpit, near the top of my transom caused by water leaking into the core around an engine dorade vent. I made a cardboard template of the shape of the transom top, used the template to cut a 10" x 4" x 1/8" thick stainless plate large enough to cover and strengthen the crack, welded a short piece of tubing onto it for a flagstaff mount, bedded it in 3M 5200 securely over the crack with 26 stainless bolts. I drilled the bolt holes around the edge of the plate, thru the top of the transom, about every inch or so, countersinking the bolt heads into the 1/8" plate. It looks like a beautiful flagstaff mount or maybe a step plate. Whatever, it looks great and is stronger than original.

About the sails, in a nutshell. If the sails are nice and soft and easy to handle, they're probably shot. If they're crispy, crunchy, don't bag up well, make a lot of noise when handled, they're probably good sails. Any reliable sailmaker will look at them and tell you their condition. Don't throw the old ones away. I bought my new main this year without reef points. If I go out in heavy air, I'll use my old sail with it's two large reef points. (My main is quick and easy to change.) I'll save my new main for light air club racing while it's nice and crisp and crunchy. I can add reef points to the new sail later, after I lose a couple of races and get mad at it.

Want to try sailmaking? Here's a winter project. If you have a good sewing machine and want to have a try at sailmaking. Click here for my one and only sailmaking experience. I would never try to make or build a complete sail but here's a project for a couple that want to "get their feet wet" in sail repair. I did it and it worked fine.

I sail in the gulf out of Shell Point, near Tallahassee where I live. I bought the boat this last year from the original owner and it is in excellent condition. Just bought a new 9.9 Honda for it which I would recommend to anyone for fuel economy and quietness. Good luck and keep up the good work. Gil Boettcher, gboettcher@ibm.net

I was wondering if you know of anyone who has seriously addressed the storage space problem on the 2-27. It looks as if installing cabinets on the aft bulkhead above the galley and port and starboard above the settees would not be too difficult (or am I a bit too enthusiastic?). Also, can you recommend a good autopilot suitable for the 2-27. I know nothing about them. Here's a good question . . . If you were starting from day one with your new 2-27, what modifications would you make, or want to make?

Just bought a Cal 40 from the ORIGINAL owner this past October...Hull # 35 or 36 (How can I confirm?). She is in great condition and in the original configuration, with the torpedo tube berths and original GrayMarine 4 cylinder gas engine (runs like a charm after a recent rebuild...before I bought her).

I saw the E-mail you received from Dave Bowers regarding his Cal 40 and the modifications he made to make her more comfortable for cruising. I wonder if he would mind if you passed along his E-mail address so I might get in touch with him. I would love to get pictures of his interior so I might get some ideas.

I also have some information and line drawings with specs you may be interested in. I have to have them photocopied and then I will E-mail or snail mail them to you. I have the original engine manuals also. Let me know what you are looking for and I'll see what I have.

I've been looking for a site like this for awhile and was lucky enough to stumble across a reference from another site. I now have you bookmarked and I'll be dropping in often...to give and take. Thanks, thanks, thanks! Rob

Dan, I just found your site and it is great. We have a 1968 Cal 40 #139 "MANANA". We are the third owners and the name has not changed. We bought her 4/4/92 and are in process of getting her ready to head down to the Islands and south america. She is docked at Watergate Yachting Center in Clear Lake just south of Houston Tx. We have done some updating down below but have not change much from the original plans. We also are opening the Quarter berths with openings from the cockpit.

There is an I-beam at the center of the boat that all the rigging is tied to and my question is, has this been a problem? Have other owners had to repalce this, if so what was the process and cost. Ours is still in good shape but shows the signs of rust. I have mantanined it by cleaning and painting it on a regular bases. We had the hull painted two years ago with awlgrip and am in the process of stripping all the wood and hardware including windows in preparation for having the deck filled and painted. this is going to end up being a one year project with only working on weekends. We will have a pro. do the actual filling and painting but we did all the teardown and will put it all back togeather. We would like to hear from you and others who have done some simular type projects on their CAL's. You can reach me at jstlman@aol.com Keep up the good work. Jim

http://marina.fortunecity.com/caldonia/230/home.html

There is a scanned copy of my Dad's drawing now posted at that site. Rod Johnson,"NODROG" 1970 Cal 21

Editor's note: I couldn't find the drawing at that site. Someone else try and let me know... dd

I recently purchased a Cal 40 (#35 or #36-don't know for sure) and I'm trying to get as much info as I can. Also looking for ideas and suggestions to upgrade her into a more comfortable cruiser...she's virtually original.

If anyone would be kind enough to send, fax, or e-mail the article/issue I'd greatly appreciate it. I'll pick up any costs involved. Thanks, Rob Stiglitz, eMail: rfalcons@lawrence.csnet.net Fax: (718) 368-4510, Address:59 Avon Rd., Hewlett, NY 11557.

Dan, Hi, I came across this site while searching for information on Cal boats. It is a very interesting site with a lot of information. Thank you for taking the time to develop such a neat place to visit. Anyway I have a Cal 21 that I have a few questions about the original setup. I noticed that Angela Hunter Richardson (posting 24) stated that she had copies of the original specs. I would be interested in obtaining a copy. However her e-mail or even standard mail address were not included. Would it be possible to obtain either so I can contact her? Also in posting #27 reply 2 Rod Johnson "NODROG" stated he had a drawing for the centerboard trunk plug and that he had a 21 originally owned new by his father. I would also like to contact him concerning the original method of raising and lowering the centerboard and a method for locking it in place when lowered. Again no e-mail or address was supplied. I would also like to contact him. So either would be appreciated.

Good morning to Mr. Dan Dalrymple from the great Pacific Northwest. 1/4/99 from Jacqui MacConnell (age 51), and her son, Orion Adair MacConnell (age 13). Bellingham, Washington

Hello Dan. Your pages are remarkable.

There is a Lapworth designed Cal 33 (1972) for sale in my town that greatly interests me. And it seems overpriced for what's on it, and for what is not. Asking $24,900. Atomic 4. Budget is a concern. Particularly as I can see so much needing fixed or replaced, or just properly re-installed.

Basic boat, basic design: good, good. This design even has a slight skeg for it's rudder. My purposes would be safe, comfortable, accomodating, and, as we learn more, fast sailing. Mostly buddy-boating until my son and I are competant skippers. Later, overnight San Juan gunkholing with Orion and his chums. Possible club racing on Wednesday and Thursday nights, and then, if we're still into it and the sun hasn't set yet, the oceans lie open to us from here........ Alaska, the Queen Charlottes, whatever. I've been pick-up race crew, first mate, and go-along cruiser for fourteen years. Have also just passed the Coast Guard Aux. basic safety class. But never been Skipper, solo. And I'm very respectful of that difference.

I will fax stuff on her to you. There are two things you could do for me, if you are willing. Zero rush. Zero obligation. Tell me anything you already know, or can point me toward, in terms of this Lapworth model (not the beamier 33 built later in the 80's), and the company or Lapworth career histories.I would love to read a couple anthologies, if available. Thanks in advance should you have the time and interest for the challenge. Mr. Dalrymple, a grand new year to you and yours. Thank you again for you appealing site. Hope some of my leads are new and pleasureable to you.

Thank you. Sincerely, Jacqui MacConnell, and son Orion

Editor's note: I shortened this e-mail a bit. You got me on this Cal 33. I looked at the photos that you referred me to and the boat is beautiful. She's all Cal on the outside but looks "better than Lapworth" inside except for the problems that you mentioned. I hope that you and your son find a boat, preferrably a Cal, and can sail out your dreams. I have toured southeast AK and would love to return there in a sailboat. About this 33 foot design by Lapworth, you already know more about her than I do. If I get your copies of the documents, I'll post them here. Thanks, dd

I have a CAL25. On the bottom of the boom on the mast end there is a cam cleat that goes through the bottom of the boom. One side is used for reefing and the other side is used for the cunningham. Does any one know who made these parts or where I can buy them? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Great web page, but I would like to correct one factual error: Contrary to your statement, Robin Graham did not circumnavigate in a Cal 24. He made it about 3/4 of the way and then moved to a larger boat, something in the 30-foot range as I recall, and then completed the circumnavigation. Robin has been a hero of mine for many years so I'd just like to see the record set straight. Thanks. 73, Bill W7TI

She has been through a couple of name changes, including "Nauti-cal", a dreadful pun on the prior "Zero-Zero" and the manufacturers name, but easy to get crew T-shirts for. She currently calls herself Juniper.

I would appreciate any further news of her adventures. Bye, Hugo.

Just saw the message from Steve Cole. Glad to hear he is still kicking. Hope you get an opportunity to post his messages in the future. I would be very interested in his sea stories.

Great page! Keep up the good work. Gil Boettcher Cal 24 "Moderation"

Great Page!!! I owned a Cal 29 for years. A great boat!!! I have a water color painting of our cal offshore in Jax. Fla. I'll try to send a photo of it at some point. A famous maine marine artist was commissioned by norcold to paint it in a " Freeze the moment" sweepstakes that we won. Love the page !!!

Dan, Thanks for Dave's E-mail address. I've already been in touch with him and he pointed me to his web page. If you haven't seen his boat, it's certainly worth a look. (http://www.woodex-meco.com/astarte/). (Ed note: I corrected this address) His boat is gorgeous. Gave me lots of ideas and he was kind enough to include his phone #.

As far as the info I can provide to you on the Cal 40 (specs., line drawing, etc.), I will take the papers to work on Monday to photocopy and will drop them in the mail as soon as I can. Ed Note: Thanks, I received the information and line drawings, dd) I also have some info on Bill Lapworth that may be interesting, which I'll also include. Again, thanks for the info and the web site. Rob

Note: in another email . . . Dan, Glad you can use some of the info I sent you and I'm glad I could be of some help. As for my home port, Hewlett is where my home is, on Long Island's south shore, about 20 miles east of New York City. I sail out of Oyster Bay, which is on the north shore of Long Island, and my cruising area is generally Long Island Sound into New England and sometimes down into New York Harbor. If your ever plan a trip to New York please look me up and maybe we can arrange a sail together. If you think I may be able to provide any further info please drop me a line and I'll see what I can dig up. If I find anything I think you might be able to use I'll be sure and forward it. Anyway, thanks for your efforts with the Web page and I hope I can be of further help in the future. Rob

Note: in another email... Dan, Sorry about the hyperlink to Dave' webpage. Something happened when I copied it to your page and it was incomplete. Try this one: http://www.woodex-meco.com/astarte/

Rob

Hi, I am looking for some history on my Cal 24. She seems to have started life as Zero-Zero, sailing out of Hawaii, through the Panama canal to the UK. From there she made for Cape Town. Like the Dove, which stopped in Durban, her crew then switched to a bigger boat to pass Cape Augulas at the South end of Africa.

I have a 1986 Cal 33 along with the original sales brochure. This says that Peter Boyce designed this model of Cal 33. I don't know anything about the designer, but I would appreciate your comments on this model. I can send you info if you like, however, my scanner is down and I can not send brochure at this time.

I have a 1967 which my family and I cruised the Eastern Caribbean with. It is a great boat. We did St. Martin to Trinidad 450 miles in 52 hours. That is 8.6 knots for two days with cruising sails and one person on watch. Anyway we are not using the boat and would consider selling her to the right buyer. The boat is still very stock but she does have a Pro furl, a 50hp Yanmar(straight shaft), and Lewmar 52ST's. The boat is in North Carolina. I can be reached at bayviewhouse@yahoo.com Thanks for the cool sight Josh Summers

Hi, I recently purchased a 1969 Cal34 and keep it in Wilson - Lake Ontario. I am looking for Cal34 owner groups and additional information regarding the CAL34. Does anyone have some user network information. Found groups dedicated to Cal 25 but none for CAL34. Thanks Frank Saul 716-565-9510

The purpose of that small forestay you are talking about is to add stiffness and/or prebend to the lower portion of the mast. I installed one on a Venture 222 that previously owned and it did wonders for the performance. I also added a tube of PVC over it to act as a roller for the jib when tacking.

I am currently reworking the Tech Tips and there are 2 new tips regarding this subject. Stay tuned, as I will post the notice via the SJ23 distribution list. -- Bob Schimmel, Spruce Grove, Alberta, Canada, San Juan 23 Internet Fleet: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/5492/ This list sponsored by PEAK,Inc., ISP and Education Center, Corvallis, Oregon

I own a Cal 27 T2 1974. I believe this is also referred to as the "Doghouse" model. I would like to know if any one has copies of the brochure, manual or any publication. I would certainly be willing to compensate. Michael Flanagan

Dear Sir, I have an opportunity to purchase a CAL 29 at a good price. I don't know the year at this time but would like to get as much information of the original specifications as possible. I cannot find any thing on the homepage which may lead me to a location.

Your web site is GREAT. Thanks for taking the time. If you can help me please send to John E Mail address "actchem@aol.com" Thanks John

Hi. Just browsed your Cal page. I recently purchased a Cal 2-27, my first boat. I am very happy with it. I have one of the few 2-27's which came equiped with an outboard rather than the inboard, which is interesting, because it gives you a ton of storage where the inboard would have been. Editor's note, I'm thinking of switching to a 4 cycle outboard myself. I'm having problems buying reasonably priced parts for my original gasoline, 15 horse, Volvo Penta, 4 cycle, MD 10A engine.

I have searched all over the web for info on these models, and was glad to stumble on your page. I added my name to the Cal 2-27 newsletter group, but have heard nothing. I am going to try to join the Owners Group, do you belong or have any info on them? Simon

Editor's reply: My answer to Question #1 - Right here on this website (in these Q&A pages) is the best place to find an owner's manual. Question #2 - Usually the bilge contains the icebox drain, any deck leaks and any water leakage thru the hull, such as thru the stuffing box. The main reason that the icebox drains into the bilge is that the bottom of the icebox is usually below the waterline. Draining the icebox thru the hull would result in an icebox that would remain half full of seawater. Question #3 - The cockpit MUST drain outside the hull else a wave over the transom could sink you. Question #4 - The sink should usually drain thru the hull. It's best to shut this off while sailing especially during rough weather. Editor's Note: I glassed-over my sink thru-hulls and now drain my sinks into the bilge. Since no outside seawater enters the sink plus the fact that I don't use either sink much, this is safe enough. The only drawback is that the bilgewater may become sour due to sink discharge.

Greetings: I love your website. It is really informative. I am looking at a RI built Cal 39 circa 1986. Have you personally heard comments on the quality of the construction from this facility compared with the previous facilities? The older boats seemed to be exceedingly stoutly built. Is this true of the RI incarnations as well? Thanks for the input. Bill Kusmik kusmik@erols.com

Hello: I have been following your website. It is very informative. I am looking at a Cal 39 (1986) which was built in RI. Are you aware of any information concerning the quality of construction at this facility? I am aware that the original models were stoutly constructed and I was wondering if that was alao true of those manufactured in RI. Thanks for your input. Bill Kusmik kusmik@erols.com

Dear Dan, Found your page this evening and think it is great! I am on the West Coast and we have about 50 members in our Association. Perhaps we could get together and create a listing of all Cal 2-27 owners in the U.S. With the internet we might be able to do some cool stuff. Regards, Jim Taylor "Uncle George" Hull # 56

From: To: "Dan and Karen Dalrymple" go2erie@bright.net Subject: Re: Cal24, etc. Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 04:30:54 -0500 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal

Dan, A Cal 24 owner just led me to your webpage. I am the Steve Cole who was the "guru" of the class for a long time. I had Zest for 23 years and wrote a newsletter for many of those years. It's a bit wierd to see a short write-up about myself on the net. I raced and cruised the boat continuously, and maintained her in perfect condition. I do know a lot about the boats and am always available for advice. I also still know the Pete Ebeling who was referenced in my old newsletter. He still has Cal 24 #21 (now in Brooksville, Maine), which he baught new as a kit in 1959. He was a personal friend of both Jack Jensen and Bill Lapworth. There are several details in your page that I think are inaccurate, but it's too late right now (tonight) to think about them.

I'll send another email in the future. I share your enthusiasm for Cal boats (even though I now have a J/30).

Steve Cole, Seal Beach, CA

My reply to Steve: Hello Steve, It's good to hear from you. I realize that many things here are not accurate. With everyone's help, we can make it better. Certainly anything that you can help me with will be changed or added to the site with #1 priority. I appreciate any and all help. Whatever you send me on any of the Cals can be added directly to the site. I'll even give you your own page here, if you like.

People want to read about the Cals. There's very little on the web about them (is why I started this site). I keep adding my site addresses to any and all search engines that doesn't list them since hundreds of internet users search for information about Cal Yachts daily. Even though I haven't touched the website for the past several months, the number of user hits on the site increases daily.

Thanks for the email, looking forward to more of them, Dan Dalrymple, Wooster, OH

Dan, I was just on your Cal web site and really appreciate the information you have collected. I have an opportunity to buy a beautifully maintained, loaded, 1978 Cal 2-27 for around $8,000. It's not the boat I had in mind--I tend to like the older traditional boats like the Bristols--but it's VERY nice and very roomy.

Could you tell me a bit about the boats sailing characteristics? For instance . . . Does it pound heavily in heavy chop? When do you put in the first reef? The second reef? Is the ride generally easy or will she pound you to death on a long cruise? These are general questions to give you a idea of the information I'm looking for.

I currently have a 1993 Precision 23 (for sale, if you know anyone looking) that I love, but my wife will no longer sail on after of an encounter with a storm followed by gusty 36 knot winds. You see why I'm asking the questions above? The more comfortable my wife is the more sailing I get to do.

Thanks for any input you might have. Chris Collins c.collins@asee.org

My reply: Hello Chris, Good to hear from you. I've owned several sailboats, some larger than the 2-27, but I never had a boat that I enjoyed sailing more. I'm a poor one to ask about reefing. We sail Lake Erie, a lake noted for it's light air, but equally noted for it's treacherous short chop in a blow.

One of the reasons I like smaller sailboats is the fact that it's easier to simply change a sail than to reef it. So the first thing I'd probably do is drop the main completely down or possibly change my main. Yes, I do have a "storm main" cut down from an old mainsail. (good winter project, saves the good mains).

My next step would be to change the jib to the 110 (gotta go on deck for this task) and continue under jib only. If she blows up any more than this, I would pop my storm jib, and motorsail using the storm jib to steady the boat. Actually, I've done just this, several times. I'm not one for spending much time fussing with sails during a blow, so like I said, usually wait too long, then take a major step. My 70 square foot storm jib, sheeted in tight, works great, along with the engine. It helps the boat's speed but mostly it is a godsend for steadying the boat.

I remember reefing the main a couple times but both times I reefed at dock, then went out in stiff winds. Once was in Nassau, though, and I only put in a single reef at dock, only to find that we soon needed a double. Ended up motoring under storm jib only, then after 10 hours, hiding in the safety of a little horseshoe shaped island called Whale Cay (pronounced key), near Chubb Cay. Laid in there for the next 16 hours while she blew so hard that we sometimes heeled more than 40 degrees lying under bare poles at anchor. It was nice though, no waves but plenty of wind. Really made the rigging hum. We had 20 minute anchor watches but slept great.

About the pounding in a chop, everything pounds in Lake Erie chop... The old Alberg type hulls, narrow hulls with the long overhangs and the slack bilges were the best boat ever for Lake Erie chop but the same long overhangs and slack bilges used up all of the interior room... so to get an interior the size of a Cal 2-27, you needed to buy (and pay dockage for) an Alberg 35.

I guess what I'm saying is: I enjoy my Cal 2-27 as much as I enjoyed any boat I've ever owned. I would recommend the boat to anyone. $8000? I've paid $50,000 for boats that I didn't enjoy as much as my Cal 2-27. Oh, and I also trailer my Cal now. No, I can't launch it at the local ramp but I bring it home in the winter and will probably take it south next winter. The boat is only slightly over width, legal height wise, and pulls easily with my Chevy 3500 1 ton pickup and the gooseneck trailer that I built. dsd

From: JOSEPH NIDDAM jniddam@col1.telecom.com.co To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Propeller for my cal 2-30 Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 2:02 PM

THANKS AND REGARDS, JOSEPH NIDDAM jniddam@col1.telecom.com.co

My reply: Joseph, I can't help much but Yanmar will... Send them your engine model number, boat weight, LWL, LOA and the fact that it's a sailboat and they will tell you what prop you need. They might need to know your transmission model for the gear reduction ratio, but the model number of the Yanmar unit should tell them that. Where did the prop come from? Make sure that the rotation of the prop is correct. It will be marked on the hub as either RH (right hand) or LH (left hand). Your Yanmar manuals will tell you what rotation prop you need. They cannot be switched!

Dan: Interesting web page, I enjoyed reading. As a fellow sailor "on the hard" for the next couple of months, the only sailing I get to do is on the web. I read with interest your article re: boat on Lake Erie. I'm 54 years old and looking forward to retirement in 5-10 years. I want to be able to lock up my house about this time of the year, leave MO and put my boat in the water in FL and sail to the Bahamas for 3 months. Anyway it's my pipe dream. Your article added fuel as to what type used boat (I'm not taking the bite on a new boat) two of us can live on for 3 months. YFI: we now sail a Capri 25 out of Boulder Marina in IL but I live in East Central MO. We enjoy racing our Capri and turned out to be a ringer in a lake wide regatta we entered. The only other time I raced last year, I ran aground while leading. We started racing too late in the year to become a factor in the standings. There is next year (new sail and whisker pole which cause a 2nd. place in the regatta I mentioned). http://members.aol.com/BoulderYC/ My home page is http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Estates/6314/ if you care to visit. Regards and good sailing. Jim

Some Cal 27 info from Owners Guide , Displacement with 7 1/2 hp Westerbeke gas inboard 5,400 lbs., ballast 2,500 lbs. I have a Sail & Rig Plan for my 1974 "California 27 (T/2)" dated 13 January 1972, by C. William Lapworth but too large for my scanner. Launched Jan 1975

a Cal 27 T/2 Owner, Mike

Hi. Just browsed your Cal page. I recently purchased a Cal 2-27, my first boat. I am very happy with it. I have one of the few 2-27's which came equiped with an outboard rather than the inboard, which is interesting, because it gives you a ton of storage where the inboard would have been.

I have searched all over the web for info on these models, and was glad to stumble on your page. I added my name to the Cal 2-27 newsletter group, but have heard nothing. I am going to try to join the Owners Group, do you belong or have any info on them?

Am attaching a picture of my boat. Simon

Hi, I am looking for some history on my Cal 24. She seems to have started life as Zero-Zero, sailing out of Hawaii, through the Panama canal to the UK. From there she made for Cape Town. Like the Dove, which stopped in Durban, her crew then switched to a bigger boat to pass Cape Augulas at the South end of Africa. We currently sail out of Simons Town, about 15 miles North of Cape Point.

for go2erie@bright.net Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:41:48 -0700 (MST)Message-ID: 36BA5B09.5048B29B@bigplanet.com Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 20:44:30 -0600 From: Marie Edison mariee@bigplanet.com X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 (Macintosh; U; PPC) I have finally connected with your page. I love finding out about its history. I have a 1982 Cal 25-2 docked at Hamilton Creek on Percy Priest Lake in Nashville, Tennessee. I've owned the boat for 2 1/2 years and have just has a bottom job including fiberglassing the keel. I've tried to get on a ques/ans page to find out what the tuning specifications are. I have some original data, but not the tuning tension. Can you direct me to this info? Thank you. Marie

Received: from chmls06.mediaone.net (chmls06.mediaone.net [24.128.1.71]) by sparticus.bright.net (8.9.1/8.9.1 ComNet Build) with ESMTP id MAA13007 for go2erie@bright.net; Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:23:10 -0500 (EST) Received: from mediaone.net (ejagillis.ne.mediaone.net [24.128.150.85]) by chmls06.mediaone.net (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id MAA17957 for go2erie@bright.net; Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:23:09 -0500 (EST)

Hi Dan, Just a note to say how much I enjoy your web site on Cals. I have a Cal 21 and love it. I was wondering how often you update the site. I have created a web site for the Cal 21 and try to update it once a month or more, but find it harder every time to come up with meaningful content. It's address is marina.fortunecity.com/caledonia/230/home.html"

I especially appreciate the history of Cal bit. I was wondering if you have recieved any info on the original Cals of the 60's like the 28. I have found one thats for sail and haven't any idea of it's sailing characteristics. It appears to be a short lived model, was there a problem with them or was it just replaced by the 27? Thanks, Richard Fuller, Ruta...Bagas - 74 Cal 21

I thoroughly enjoyedyour reviews of the many sailboats you've owned, particularly those on the 27-footers as I am in the market for one. I just sold the third boat I've owned, a Catalina 25 which I owned for 10 years. It had a swing keel which was prone to failure, four times in 10 years. My last few years I just left the weighted board up and suffered with the slide to windward.

I am looking at moving up to a 27-footer, Catalina, Com-Pac, Island Packet, Pearson and Watkins are all contenders although a friend recently informed me to eliminate the Watkins as a poor hull design. My first choice is the slow but thick and reliable Island Packet if I can find one in my price range. Your review of the Cal 27 gave me another to think about. I sail the west coast of Florida out of Crystal River, from Cedar Key to the north to Tampa Bay to the south. I'm anxious to broaden my horizons to the Florida Keys and Bahamas, where I have chartered several times. Thank you again for the interesting info. Kevin P. Mulligan kmulligan@yahoo.com

My reply to Mr. Mulligan, a fellow clansman: I too, like the Island Packet but very expensive! My choice of my Cal 2-27, "imp" lies mostly with it's trailering abilities. The 9 foot 3 inch beam seems to satisfy law-enforcement officers on the highway. The 6700 pound dry weight seems OK for my Chevy 3500 and the gooseneck trailer that I built.

If you don't require trailering, there are several larger Cals that can be purchased for a fraction of the price of an Island Packet.

Hello Dan, I really enjoyed your Web page. I'm the owner of a 1979 Cal 27, Hull #603, "Black Hawk". I've owned Black Hawk for about 5 years, it's been a wonderful boat. Black Hawk has been the perfect Pocket Cruiser here on Lake Norman, NC. I've attached a Photo for your collection.

Thanks for the Great Web Page, Bob Becker - Charlotte, NC

John Niemczuk, CAL #1655

Just found your web site Great info wish I had found it last year. I'm looking for a stern tube (the old one has cracked and the holes holding it to the boat have become enlarged. Can anyone tell me where I can find a replacement (new or used) the shaft is 1". Any sources would be appreciated. I'm located near Annapolis, Md. rpprice@erols.com

From: "Don Williams" recruiterdon@email.msn.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Old Cal homepage, Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:55:48 -0600 Dan, I've been looking all over for something like your home page. It's great! I have a 1968 Cal 20, hull number 1327. I was looking for replacement parts for it several years ago and ran across a web page, //tenthmuse.clever.net/seals/seals.html (Editor's note: this site is no longer here, dd) that had technical specs and replacement parts for the Cal 20 and I believe other models as well. I recall the name of his company as being Seal's and Spars Rigging. This guy was located out in the Bay area (I think). Anybody know of this guy or if he's still around?

I did order a replacment part from them which arrived without any problem. The only snag is that was back in the Fall of '95. I have tried to access their page several times since then and it's nowhere to be found. After reading many of the postings on your page, I think that I may be able to offer a suggestion. I'm pretty sure I have an old invoice with contact information for this guy. He claimed to have a pretty decent inventory of spare parts. I'll see if I can find the info and get back to you.

Question for your page: After seeing so many postings regarding rub rails, I was wondering myself if it is possible to recondition the rub rails (after thorough cleaning)with something like acetone and then sealing with ArmorAll or comercial sealant? I too would like to replace or recondition my rub rail for my Cal 20.

I would also like to know if anyone has any comments regarding replacement of the rub rail system all together. What I would like to know is this: do I weaken the structural integrity of the top deck / hull joint by removing (grinding off) the protruding lip that the rub rail attaches to? I have thought of grinding this off and running a strip of glass fabric and resin to smooth over the joint and then replacing with a commercially available aluminum and rubber strip. Any comments?

Dan, After sending my last e-mail to you and mentioning that I'd try to find Seal's Spars and Rigging's home page or contact info, I ran a search just for the company and an article with Steve Seal's address and contact info popped up! I tried giving him a call and actually reached him. I told him about your Cal home page and gave him your e-mail address and contact number. He should be giving you a call. His web page is apparantly still inoperative, but he will get it going again (especially after I told him about all the requests for replacement parts for Cal's that I saw on your bulletin board). He has replacement parts for Cal's and is very familiar with the boats since he used to build them. He knows Bill Lapworth personally and used to sail with him and Jensen.

His contact info is: Steve Seals, Seal's Spars and Rigging, 1327 Sherman Street, Alameda, CA 94501, Phone numbers are (phone/fax): 510-521-7730 www.tenthmuse.com/seals/c20.html HE HAS REPLACEMENT RUB RAILS!!!!!!!! Just thought you'd get a kick out of that since I saw so many requests for info on that. His prices are pretty reasonable and I have purchased from him once in the past. He seems like a pretty decent guy. Hope this helps and thanks again for your work on the home page.

Fair winds and clear skies! Don Williams, recruiterdon@msn.com or csimail@msn.com , (972)870-0886 Cal20 #1327 "Azul"

Hi, I really enjoyed the information on your sight. I am an attorney in Los Angeles, California trying to help a friend recover from an insurance loss for a Cal Jensen Sailboat. They are basiclly trying to get $2000 from the insurance who is denying the claim. Do you have any information on the head thru-hull fitting of the 1973 Cal Jensen 20. The insurance is denying the claim and they (insurance company) claims it is the thru-hull fitting that caused the sinking rather than weather. The sinking took place in Marina Del Rey in March last year and the boat collected water after 2 weeks of storms. Do you have any literature that would support or rebut the claim of the insurance. I would think that if a thru-hull was bad a boat would sink in minutes rather than float on the water for 12 months (insurance claims that the thru-hull was bad for over a year) and then sink.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

I'm a Cal 31 owner, a 1980. It's got a Universel diesel #5416, 16 hp, and a 135 Genoa.

The CQR anchor is too big for the anchor locker. I'd be glad to hear about anchor storage solutions. I've seen a large Danforth hooked to the pulpit of one.

The teak cabinetry in older, i.e. 1979, 1980, models has more finish: lathe-turned work and cabinet doors. The keel also seems deeper than in mid-80s models, which are also longer, fore and aft. I've heard that manufacturing switched to RI and FL around 1980.

The 31 is actually 31' 6" and it's not a bluewater design. It's tender, heels way over going upwind at 15 kts. The cockpit is not large, thanks to a roomy salon, which also has cabinetry port & starboard of the companionway, so no quarterberth. Its PHRF rating ranges from 156 to 165, which is on the fast side for a cruising boat. Practical Sailor Magazine's review was very favorable. About 360 were produced from 1979 to '85 or '86.

I'd be glad to correspond with other owners, to discuss a whole bunch of questions. - Chris Barr cbarr@mediaone.net

What I want to know is the year this was made - was it a Fla. or Rhode Island boat? (Editor's note: I think that Chris is referring to the year of the Cal that popped a thruhull. He wants to know if it was built by Jensen Marine or by a later owner of Cal Yachts. GOOD question, since there seems to be shoddy workmanship involved.)

Nice job with the sailboat info, keep up the good work! Hopefully I'll see you up on lake Erie this summer, I just need to finish my 20' homebuilt..... Regards, John Foster, Dayton

Hi Dan, I see you posted Rod Johnsons note about his Cal 21 keel plug drawing being on my Cal 21 web site but that you couldn't find it. Sorry I didn't mean to bury it, but it is there. It's in the "Upgrades" page towards the end. It's an "upgrade" to me because mine didn't have it when I bought her 7 years ago. Also.. there is a typo in the address for the site. "caldonia" should be caledonia. (the e is missing).

On a different note... I sent an e-mail asking if you or anyone else knew anything about the first Cal 28's (67-69 I beleave). displacement, measurments, sailing ability... I guess it was one of the ones that got lost during your upgrade. Thanks, Richard Ruta...Bagas Cal 21

DAN, I found your web page. I am considering buying a CAL 34. Can you call me, to talk about a few specifics? 1-800-988-5782. This is a work # My name is Mitch Moses. I'm in Tulsa, OK. Thanks

Looking for sailor who race the Cal 9.2 to compare notes. I have been racing a Cal 9.2 for 10 years on Lake Michigan. email cmijohn@mercury.para-net.com

Hi Michael -- I have a Faryman diesel in my Cal 2-29 (1979) that I am taking out soon. It is being replaced with an electric wheel motor here at Solomons Island in the Chesapeake. The Faryman is in OUTSTANDING condition. I bought the sailboat last year from a very elderly couple who had taken very good care of the Cal and engine. It had been reconditioned in 1997 and everything goes with it, including transmission, diesel tank, exhaust system, etc. This is a very, very good deal!!! If you're interested, act quickly. I plan to advertise the engine in the Washington Post soon. This engine has had very little use. It has many years of life left. This is the deal of a lifetime! Let me hear from you if you're interested. Bob Fistick 301-884-4395

Cal 28, 1968 - 5 sails, Eagle sounder/knot meter, VHF, diesel inboard, Dickenson stove, completely rebuilt teak galley, dingy. $18,500. 250-758-0196 Vancouver Island

Question #49 good or bad on the Cal-2-29. I have owned a 1974 2-29 for ten years and have loved every minute of it, the boat has not needed any major repair, I have had normal maintenance and no unexpected problems- I would buy this boat all over again. The diesel Eng. starts every time the rig has held up well, the windows have leaked but that is normal and easy to repair. This boat sails at a nice speed and carries my family of 4 all over the Chesapeake bay for weeks at a time.

I have a question of my own- I have been racing this boat fore 5 years and would like any information on setting up the boat for best results.

I enjoyed reading about the history of Cal boats. You did a very nice job. I have also used your web site to locate a rub rail for my Cal 33. Thank you.

I have a brochure and some advertisements from One Design & ....... that I can send you if you are interested. Having actively raced this Cal on the Great Lakes for the past 27 years, I consider myself an authority on the 33-1. "Andicapp", US33530, built at Jensen Marine, hull #25, has had one of the most succcessful careers of any yacht raced on Lake Erie. She is commonly referred to on the west end of Lake Erie as "the blue hemorrhoid". She has won the prestigeous Interclub Series twice, The Lake Erie Race and has been the Erie Yacht Club "boat of the year" three times. She is still actively raced and will be entered in the Trans-Erie Race, Interclub Series, and Bay Week (Put-in Bay Regatta).

She was purchased new from Howard Boston, Boston Sailmakers, in July 1972 who had planned to race her in the "Mac". Since then she has averaged 30- 40 races per season ( over 1000 miles/year) . As you can imagine, with this much sailing, everything that could fatigue already has. We have made some interesting repairs, refits, modifications, involving Bill Lapworth and the Geugeon Brothers that I would be happy to share. Although she has undergone several refits, she has had major renovations in the past three years.

It was very nice to hear you praise Bill Lapworth. He and his wife,Peggy are delightful people. They visited me in Erie a few years ago. I agree with comments regarding Bill's talent and the history of Cal and the Cal 40. Please feel free to contact me any time. Best regards, P/C Christian Wolford, EYC

P.S. Let me know what format you want the scans in and I will send them right away.

I have a 1983 Cal 35 that I've owned about a year. It's a great boat and sails very well. l live in Miami and have passed many a newer (and sometimes larger) boat in offshore conditions. About the only bad habit the boat has is pounding in certain head seas when close-hauled; but bearing off just a bit solve that. With a 6' draft fin keel the boat can really keep moving in a seaway.

My question is: This particular vessel started life in Sausalito as "Shearwater" and has been named "Heartset" since 1990. She did the Pacific Cup at least once and I'd like to find our how she did. Does anyone out there know?

Also, I'm in the process of peeling the gelcoat and putting vinylester resin on because of gelcoat blisters. There seems to be two gelcoat layers on this boat, one blue and one white, and the total thickness is quite bit more than normal. Was his standard procedure when these boats were built? Thanks for any help! Best regards, Tony Battaglia

Having an Atomic 4 that has no power is as common as having an old sailboat with an Atomic 4.

These engines are very forgiving- they are also tempermental. Unless you are very familiar with how your engine sounds, it may be firing on only 3 cylinders. It may also run on all 4 when it is first started and idling at the dock but when a load is put to it, a plug may foul. To test for this, in both nuetral and while in gear, pull off the spark plug wires one at a time and then lower the cap slowly over the plug until the spark jumps from the wire to the plug. You can hear it clicking. If you pull off a plug wire and the engine sounds the same, chances are one cylinder is not firing. This may be caused by oil from the crankcase getting by the rings to the spark plug - called "blow -by".If your engine is badly warn this may be the case. This may require new rings to be installed - a fairly big job.

To determine if this "blow-by" is serious, a simple test called a compression test can determine if the fit between the cylinder and the piston is OK. If the compression test shows good compression, the next common problem with the Atomic 4 is that it does not run hot enough. If the thermostat has been removed (often done) put a new one in. Also try a new spark plug and some "Restore" (one of the few oil treatments that work well). A "make it work" mechanic may also suggest a washer under the bad spark plug to lift it slightly. It is also possible to have a heavy carbon build -up that is reducing the power. After warming it up, run the engine in nuetral, at full throttle, for five minutes. If you hear a sudden jump in RPM throttle back and then hde if there are people around.

I have owned a 1987 Cal 28 for the past 6 years. I love the boat. My family does a lot of coastal cruising in the Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Long Island Sound areas. I also race on Wednesday nights.

Until last year I tuned my rig by hand and it always worked fairly well. Last year I purchased a "Loos & Co." professional tension gauge (from West Marine, about $80) and found it to be very easy to use and got the tuning to be perfect. You tension the rigging according to the diameter of the wire using a chart provided with the gauge. The trick I have learned is to alternately tension each side a little bit and re-measure each time. This keeps the mast plumb and prevents re-tensioning after over tightening either shrouds. I start with the top spreaders and finish with the lowers. It seems to work.

At the risk of sounding like a salesman for the Co. - I like this gizmo.

I currently own a 1986 cal22 and am looking to swap info and tales with anyone with this size of boat. JRSails@aol.com

Found the Old Cal web page almost by accident. Enjoyed it. I have a 1976 Cal 29, hull # 912. It was originally in the San Francisco Bay area, but was moved to the Galveston Bay area of Texas in 1990. I have (someplace) the original owners manual and brochure. I will locate them and make them available as needed. With respect to engine replacement, I replaced the Atomic 4 with a Universal 18 hp diesel. Had to replace the prop which was custom made in Houston. The boat was extensively raced in the San Francisco area during 1985-1990. Won lot of races.

At the time there was a large Cal 29 club there. Just wanted to pass these thoughts on. Thanks for the pages. Joe

Dan --Just reviewed your web site rather quickly and noticed a few things you might want to correct. I will print it out, make my suggested changes and snail mail them to you if you send me your address. I have quite a bit of literature on Cal-20 thru Cal 230 Since 1968 we have owned 3 Cal 20's (one sunk at dock in storm when boathouse broke loose on 12/14/88 and crushed it against the rock levy). We also had a Cal 230, designed by Bill L. just for San Francisco Bay and we won many races at a PHRF of 174, she was a great heavy weather SF Bay Boat.

Also owned Ericsons, a C&C-36 for 15 years, still own a Santanna-22 up the Delta, and now also a little Cal 25-2 1980 with the Universal 11hp diesel.

Do you know if it is possible to buy the sea hood for the boat as is shown in the 1980/81 brochure? The 25-2 is a very good little cruiser and we have also enjoyed some success racing her in mom & pop division in interclub races at National PHRF average rating of 222 for the Inboard. But alas on SF bay she is a bit tender and we could definitely use a sea hood and maybe a dodger. Regards Dave Few, Chablis IV Hull #255 made in Fall River MA.

DEAR SIR, I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A CAL 3-30 A 1974 BOAT HULL #274 I,M LOOKING FOR A BROCHURE ON THE BOAT OR ANY INFO ABOUT THE DESIGN OR HISTORY.. I LIVED IN SF,AND OAKLAND CA I USE TO RACE ON A CAL 3-30 SO I KNOW THE BOAT SOMEWHAT BUT I WOULD LIKE SOME MORE TECHNICAL INFO IF ITS AVAILABLE.

MY NAME IS: CHRIS EISENHART, 2 BENNETT ST #4, SOUTH PORTLAND,ME 04106, MY PHONE:207-799-3792, WORK PHONE:207-283-2900, FAX:207-283-8017. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT,THANKS AGAIN .......

Keep going. Looks good and I'll continue to browse your page.

I live on Huron and sail a Cal 25. Still learning and fixing her up. Would eventually like to work my way up to a 30' size. Love to sail!!!! Sincerely, Marty Gute, Oscoda, Michigan

Just wanted to be sure you knew about us -- we're at http://www.cal25.addr.com/.

We're written up in the March "Soundings." Gilbert Renaut, Racing POC, Chesapeake Bay Cal 25 Ass'n

Several months ago, I wrote looking for a lost source for Cal 2-27 fixed ports.

Mark Heacox, the owner of Mark Plastics, worked for Go Industries, one of the orginal equipment manufacturers of ports for Cal. I have found his quality and service to be excellent and a perfect match.. You may reach him at Mark Plastics, 369 East Harrison St., Unit G, Carona CA. 91719. Phone 909-735-7705, fax 909-735-0701. No E mail. it is best to call him in the AM.

He passed along another source for original equipment parts that I want to check before posting. He passed along the name of a former purchasing agent for Cal who is still active and can help find a source for rigging etc. If correct, this could be a great source for a variety of Cal Parts..

Anyone with questions may contact me at jshullo@altavista.net

Am in need of a forepeak hatch for my cal 25. Looking for the original solid fiberglass one. Any ideas would be helpful. jester@greatnorthern.net

Stumbled across your page, great job. I have an old Cal 28, we've had her since 1969 and love her. Always looking for more info on this great boat. Chris

Dan - Reference my Sat, 06 Mar 99 E mail, to you, Subject: Repower Elusive - 1978 Cal 2-29 Farymann A30 Diesel.

I have the same subject problem and questions as does Micheal R Durbanon Cal on his Cal 29 Engine Replacement, that is listed in Old Cal Yachts Webpage, Q&A Page #2. How can I get in touch with Micheal?? Herb (310) 830-3621 or (562) 982-6246. Many Thanks

I just found your Cal sailboat web page. It is excellent. I have friends that have Cal/Lapworth boats, I will tell them about your location. I own a Ranger 23 designed by Gary Mull. Is there a web page similiar to yours about Ranger boats. They were also made by Jensen then Bangor Punta. I know there are fewer Rangers than Cals but hopefully you can give me some information. Thanks, Tim Erwin, Dripping Springs, Texas

It was a pleasure to stumble upon your website today. I'll enjoy visiting and reading all the information you have posted about cal's.

I am the proud owner of a Cal 39. Presently in the midst of a major renovation. most of the trim has been removed from the boat and stripped. I am now in the midst of revarnishing. only one or two more coats to go and I'll start putting pieces back in place. Next on the agenda is a complete rewire! This weekend, time permitting I should have a new aluminum fuel tank installation complete. Last spring I haul her out, stripped the old crazing gelcoat to bare glass and repainted the hull with a linear polyurethane. the list goes on and on....

I do have some original sales brochures and specs.

If you're ever in the Seattle area I would be pleased to take you out for a sail. Keep up the good work. let me know if you need any information that I may have. Martin Sievertson

Hi, I was wondering if you have been to any of the other websites about Cals? The main one I use (and learned about yours) is cal25.com. This is the National website and there is also a SoCal page as well. I am going back to your site now and check out the rest of the info. J.R. Dicks Cal 25 # 745 "Banana Wind"

Not sure if you know this, but there is a Cal25 web site at http://cal25.com Matt Mayfield

Liked the page. I own a Cal 2-29. I spoke with Lapworth about 3 months ago over the phone. He is very friendly and still likes to talk about the Cal. He expressed great disappointment about the dwindling American sailboat industry and especially the demise of Cal's owners/suppliers.

I called Bill in order to get a full copy of his plans for my Cal 2. He is most interested in continuing to assist Cal owners in maintaining and upgrading their boats. If anyone needs his address, email me. I'll have to retrieve it from my office in NYC. I'm sure he would like to get more involved with Cal owners and continue their great sailing tradition.

Does anyone have a spare Cal 20 motor well plug, lower, they are willing to sell or loan so I can make a copy? I have a '72 vintage Cal 20, "Manana II" that I am restoring. Also, have owned "Satori" Cal 46 hull #3, since '82 when I bought her from Jack Jensen's estate. Have lived aboard and cruised since '88. Tom Vandiver E mail SATORITOM@aol.com

I purchased a 1972 Cal 20 this last summer that was in need of ALOT of TLC. After checking out the wood inside & all the deck fitting attachments I decided to go for a complete overhaul. I have completely dismantled the boat ( even split the top from the bottem ) & am in the process of reconstruction. I have added one layer of woven roving & two layers of fiberglass cloth three feet wide along the inside of the bottem & added some wood stringers for more strength. I am in the process of building new bunks, v-birth & a small galley.

I am considering taking this boat on an extended cruise & am seeking advice on other modifications that would make the vessel stronger & more sea worthy. I am considering adding an inner forestay for a cutter rig or storm jib. Also considering another set of shrouds about 18 inches fore & aft. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Email = Sailcal20@aol.com

WE HAVE ALL PARTS TO REPAIR YOUR ENGINE THIS IS A POPULAR ENGINE BE SURE IF YOU DO NOT WANT IT TO TRY TO SELL IT WE GET CALLS DAILY FROM PEOPLE LOOKING FOR A30 ONE OF THE BEST ENGINES MADE

HI GREAT STUFF NO TIME TO VIEW IT ALL SO I'LL RETURN, DO HAVE A QUESTION THOUGH... I OWN CAL 2-30 #43 GREAT BOAT AND FAST BUT I NEED TO REPLACE THE RUB RAIL AROUND THE BOAT GOT ANY IDEAS FOR A SUPPLIER?

Editor's note: There are several suppliers for Cal Rubrails listed in these Q&A pages. I don't know how good or bad any of them are. Be careful sending large amounts of money to unknown persons. Use your Browser's "search" feature and search these Q&A pages for "rub rail", also try "rub rail".

Anyone know where to get one? (motorwell plug for a Cal 20) Or if I may borrow one long enough to make a copy? Of course, I can pull my boat out of the water and make one, but, we sail year round in Florida. Tom, "Manana II", SATORITOM@aol.com or 850-455-8830

Does anyone have the specs on tensions for shrouds and stays for the '82 Cal 25 tall rig? I've just had a new bottom job and need to set the tensions correctly. Marie

Great web page Dan. What do you know about Cal 39's? They were built over an extended period and I guess modified along the way. Are there particular features good or bad pegged to specific years? Their phrf ratings indicates good speed And appear to be strong, traits typical of other cals. However that's all we know about them. Any specific info you or some other resource might have would be appreciated. Is there a Cal 39 group? Thanks in advance, Jim Hayes

When I spotted the photo of the Cal 25 on your website, I was surprised to find that it featured only two windows on a side, as opposed to the three per side on every Cal 25 that I have come across. My question is this; is the boat in the photo not actually a Cal 2-24? Essentially, the 2-24 is a slightly scaled down version of the 25.

There are some differences, however. The most obvious difference is the window configuration: two windows per side. another notable difference included a dagger-shaped steel keel with a slight bulb on the bottom, as opposed to the undershot fin on the 25. The transom was more pinched on the 2-24 as well.

In most respects, the two boats had many similar features, most notably the ingenius removable transom "door" meant for providing a place to mount the outboard motor, not to mention the same full-width "flat-top" deck.

Please let me know if you can find more information on the Cal 2-24. I would, among other things, like to know the years that this boat was produced. Thank you, Michael Altshul

Hello Michael Altshul, Years ago I probably grabbed this photo from the web somewhere, I don't even remember where. Most likely from a "for sale" page. When I first started this page, I was getting my photos anywhere I could find them. I remember that the text called the photo a Cal 24.

I used the photo, branded it a 24, received an e-mail from someone that told me that the photo was of a Cal 25. He seemed to know what he was talking about so I changed the text to read a Cal 25.

Your email is probably correct. You know more about these boats than I (for sure). I will enter your email text in my Q&A section. To: Subject: Reply on the Cal 2-24 picture Date: Sunday, March 28, 1999 12:29 PM Dear Dan and Karen; Thank you for responding so promptly to my inquiry and observations with regard to the Cal 2-24 photograph. You may go ahead and use my full name, and if you want, my previous reply on your web page. (You can handle that as you see fit). I thank you for your willingness to improve the accuracy of your web page. I can imagine that getting all the information correct must be difficult at times, as there are probably many differing opinions concerning certain aspects of the old Cal boats, yet it may be difficult to verify some of the information through the use of documentation due to the age of these boats, and the fact that Cal boats are no longer being built. My last sailing experience, as it turns out, was on a Cal 40 (about ten years ago, before I moved away from the Connecticut coast). The wind was moderate; about a fifteen knot sustained wind, and the boat handled beautifully. She was easy to balance, and was absolutely no trouble during the various maneuvers that were carried out during that sail. An absolute gem of a boat. I hope very much to have another opportunity to sail such a boat. Again, thank you for your time and reply. Respectfully Michael Altshul -

I RELLY ENJOYED YOUR WEB PAGE.. I JUST BOUGHT A 1974 CAL 3-30 I DONT EVEN HAVE THE BOAT YET ITS HULL NUMBER 274 I WILL BE KEEPING THE BOAT IN SOUTH PORTLAND MAINE..ANYWAY I GREWUP SAILING ON SF BAY SO I KNOW THE BOATS VERYWELL I USE TO RIG AND COMMISSION NEW BOATS WHEN I WAS GROWING UP.MY QUESTION IS DOSE ANYONE HAVE COPYS OF THE BROCHER ON THE CAL3-30 OR LINE DROWINGS AROUND OR ANY INFO ON THIS BOAT AT ALL.. THANKS ... CHRIS EISENHART, BENNETT ST #4, SOUTH PORTLAND,ME 04106, 207-799-3792, 207-283-8017 FAX

Thanks for the information...you do a great job with the website...I hope you keep it going...we all appreciate the effort.

From: Gadget75@aol.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Orginal owner's manual. Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 9:20 AM Dear Dan: My wife and I bought a Cal 33 ( CABS0091E687 ) last August. We love her. She is named "Second Wind." Her home port is Narragansett Bay near Newport, RI. I was lucky to get the original owner's manual. Let me know if you need any of that information.

She was surveyed in August and passed with flying colors although work will be needed to bring her back to the shape we want to see her in. It's like owning an old Mustang convertible classic. In October I took her out and she in on hard in Warwick. Hope to get her back in the water in mid April. ( eternal optimist)

I became aware of at least two other Cal 33's in this area of about the same vintage. I met the nice owner of one who has been a great help and the other is for sale in East Greenwich and has been for some time. It's in great shape but the man is asking too much.

I like your web site and thanks for the great information. Jim & Geaorge Ann Redden - Gadget75@AOL.COM

My single tubing bow pulpit needs to be replaced. Does anyone know where I can find a company that manufacturers similar shape for current boats?

I had written a question some time ago and could not determine if you were able to answer it. The cap that connects my rudder post to my tiller is damaged, and I was looking for a replacement. Do you know anyone who carries old Cal parts? Please answer if you have some time.

Thanks, Blaine Williams, 1969 Cal 34 FlyAway, Rome, Georgia, downtown@roman.net

Blaine, Sorry about the fact that the Old Cal Yacht website gets so neglected but I only work on it as time allows. I leave it up since there is practically nothing on the web about Cal Yachts.

The cap that you mentioned will be near impossible to find anywhere in today's market. Have you looked at the same part on newer sailboats to see if a newer (more available) part could be adapted to your use?

You don't mention how badly the rudderpost cap is damaged? Is it still usable? Could it be repaired by welding then re-machining? As a last resort, you will be forced to take the item to a reliable machine shop and have them fabricate another one for you. They could machine one from any material that you like including bronze, stainless steel or even titanium if you prefer. What material is the old one made from? Word of caution: don't let the shop confuse marine bronze for brass. Brass is a very inferior metal when compared to marine bronze. Titanium would be the most expensive material to use. It would be extremely strong and would last forever in any condition but my-oh-my would it be expensive! .

The best and cheapest way out would be to adapt a newer, more available part to your use (perhaps with minor machine work). The machine work will not be cheap but it will cost less than spending hours trying to locate one of these exact parts in today's market. Dan Dalrymple, editor of the website: http://www.bright.net/~go2erie/index.html

I have a 1969 cal 29. Hull number 20. I have owned her for about 12 years. I live aboard, day sail, cruise, and actively race. I have done significant structural improvements just to keep the old girl going and competitive.

I would like to mail you a photo or two and also the original brochure from october 1969. The 2-29 is exactly the same hull and rig the only difference to my knowledge was the 2-29 had a nicer interior and a wheel. Both boats rate the same across the country in phrf. I have won numerous races in the southern california area. Last year we won the annual newport to ensenada yacht race. We were 1st in class and 2nd overall. I have a boat neighbor who has an old cal 24. One of the original 24's. He also like myself is in love with his boat. He has done lots to his boat too. I go sailing with him it's a great boat. Andy Horning

There is a company called Wefco in Santa Monica California that makes the rubber extrusion for cal 29 - cal 25 - etc.

Earlier this year I asked if anyone knew where I could get original equipment non opening ports for my Cal 2-27. I finally found the source for the ports and some other things.

For ports: Mark Plastics, Contact : Mark Heacox, 369 East Harrison St, Unit G, Corona, CA 91719, Phone: 909-735-7705 fax: 909-735-0701 ( no E mail)

He worked for the company that was the origial equipment port manufacturer for cal and the various brands made by the various ownerships of Cal. No credit cards. send check, he sends windows. It worked for me and the quality is first rate. call him in the AM as he is out much of the afternoon.

Mark also provided the name for a former purchasing agent for Cal who knows the source for all kinds of original parts. I have not used him and can not make any claims for this source. Contact D&R Marine at 508-644-3001 and ask for "Rudy".

If you would like more info about the ports, contact me @ jshullo@altavista.net.

I have a 1986 Cal 33. I also have one copy of the original brochure. The brochure includes a comment that would lead the reader to the conclusion that this model was designed by Peter Boyce at C.Raymond Hunt. Do you have any info on this model? Would you like me to scan the brochure for you?

Cal 40 for sale. Located in Annapolis,MD. Fully restored 1995. Total up date.North 3DL inventory. five spinnakers, three mainsails, six headsails. Nothing over 4yrs old. 1997 winner Chicago/Mackinac Race. 1998 winner Maryland Governors Cup. Second high points CBYRA 1998 & much more. The best "cupcake" in the country. Ph. Larry Askew, 410/626-2053. $150,000.

Dear Dan....Great web page. I have a very nice 1971 Cal 27, pop-top model. I keep it at the Vallejo Yacht Club in Vallejo California. I would like to talk to people who have or had such a boat. Can you aim me in the right direction?

I would be pleased to talk about the boat to anyone. If there is any way I could add to your knowledge on that specific boat, let me know. Dick Decius (In Napa, CA)

I came across your page on the Cal 20 while doing a Metacrawler search. FYI the Crescent Sail Yacht Club in Grosse Pointe Farms, Michigan, has about 14 Cal 20s. I have one of them. We race one-design on Wednesday night (June through August) and Sunday morning (Mid-May through September. There are several other Cal 20s in the area.

My boat (1057) is in the shop right now waiting to have the hull and deck painted(Awlgrip). Some of our fleet has been restored, but most are not. For the most part they are all in pretty good shape. The design has held up well. It's a tough little boat. Most of us have had some deck problems. John Young, Grosse Pointe Woods MI

How high is a CAL 20?

On of the guys in my fleet lives down the street from me and he has his CAL 20 in his garage. Send an e-mail to him with your question and I'm sure he will respond quickly. His e-mail is genebert@home.com John Young

Dan: Great web page(s)! Well done! I have a Cal 27 question that I would appreciate your insight on. I looked at a Cal 27 Mark 3 yesrerday in Sandusky, Ohio. The boat is a 1984 model, with furling and the Yanmar diesel. Decent condition overall, but had two areas of cracking on the deck that cause me some concern. The one is at the starboard end of the traveler - a longitudinal crack just below the traveler itself. I anticipate that the traveler will need to be taken up and re-sealed, and the crack routed out and filled with epoxy. The other crack(s) are just starboard of where the tiller comes thru the deck. There is one larger crack about three inches long, and three or four smaller ones. There does not appear to be any weeping from the cracks, and there is absolutely no sponginess to the deck surface in the area. Unfortunately, fixing these will be more difficult, as they extend from the white deck surface into the beige colored non-skid. Did you note any evidence of this problem with your boat? Is it typical to Cal boats? I would appreciate any input that you may have, as I do like the boat, and the size fits our needs well. Thanks!

Best regards, Dave Sasak

My reply: David, I don't know where you're from but I think that you're getting very close to my territory. I'm thinking that the boat that you just looked at is in the same marina that I'm in, Sandusky Harbor Marina, and is being offered by Adventure Yacht Brokers. I was also there Saturday. I drove directly past that Cal several times yesterday. Matter of fact, the photos of my boat that are on my website were taken in Sandusky Harbor Marina.

My Cal is a 2-27 (the model that preceded the Mark III) of 1974 vintage. The Mark III is a touch smaller in actual size and weight than my 2-27 but it is probably quicker. Any glass problems that would appear on the 2-27 would not necessarily appear on your model. My boat, being 25 years old, has plenty of them.

These cracks, as you call them, could you pour water into them thru the hull into the boat? or are they simply surface cracks? All fiberglass boats get surface cracks after a few years. My 25 year old Cal has a crack that you could pour a large McDonald's coffee into the interior of my boat in less than 3 minutes (no kiddin'). This is my third year for this boat and I'm just getting around to fixing it now. The past two-year fix has been four inches of white sail tape.

If we're thinking of the same boat, it's probably OK and the price is right. I've admired it but have never been aboard. Let me know... Dan Dalrymple, editor

His reply back: Dan: You are correct as to the boat - it is at Sandusky Harbor. As to the cracks, neither area appears to be cracked thru to the interior. If the one area did not extend into the molded non-skid, repair would be relatively easy. All else on the boat appeared to be decent, although she had some water below due to not being covered, and the hatch board was not secured. Thanks for your input - I'll let you know what happens. Regards, Dave

Hello! we found your page very informative and interesting: CONGRATULATIONS! My husband used to own a Cal 20' a long time ago. Do you have any information about that particular one? I would love to know more about it.

Looking forward to hearing from you at your convenience. Norma Perez/Bernard Comat

Dan, I saw someone sent you a copy of a CAL 34 with line drawings but it has not been added to the page yet. I assume it was a scanned electronic copy. I wouldn't ask you to rush the update to the web page but could you email me the attachment? I would love to see it. Bill Sicard

Dan, I'm looking into a Cal 27 and am trying to get an idea what they might be going for. What did you pay for your 74' Cal 2-27 and when did you purchase it? thanks, Patrick Wroble

My reply: Patrick, decent 2-27s are going for about $5000 to $12,000 on Yachtworld now.

Hello, I just purchased a Cal 2-27 with a Farymann diesel. You mentioned on your web page that the Farymann had problems yet you were not too specific beyond power and corrosion problems. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

The engine was recently overhauled (new starter, piston, water pump and fuel pump) and has only ten hours since the work was done. You also mentioned access doors to help with storage and do you find the ice box large enough for extended trips. Your advice would be appreciated. Harry

Hello, I'm planning on taking out the Atomic 4 in my 2-27 next weekend(for a rebuild) and I was wondering if you could give me any tips. It looks like it will fit ok, but I'd hate to get everything undone and then not be able to get it out. I was thinking about using a halyard along with a block and tack to lift it out of the boat. I'm not sure how to get it out of the 'engine room' though. Any pointers you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Craig

My Reply: From: Dan and Karen Dalrymple go2erie@mail.bright.net To: Gansheimer, Craig CGansheimer@ea.com Subject: Re: Atomic 4 removal. Date: Saturday, April 10, 1999 9:41 AM

Yes, it will come out thru the hatch just fine. The best way to pull an sailboat engine is by using a halyard. I weld up a "C" type apparatus to bridge around the cockpit floor in order to get a direct pull on the center of balance of the engine. This metal apparatus helps with the removal and even helps more with the install. The engine/tranny should weigh about 325 pounds, an easy weight for a main halyard and a good winch. Dan Dalrymple, editor.

I saw your post on a CAL Q&A page and noticed the call sign. I am wanting to put some HF on my cal25 and I was wondering if you knew of any decent antenna designs for sail boats. tnx es 73, Brent, N5CLK

I would like to rejoin the Cal owners club. I'm looking to go from a "82 Cal 25 to a Cal 30 - 35. Does anyone have a favorite? Jim

Editor's note: No Cal Owners Club here, sorry about that...

Dan, Since 1992, I've been the overly proud owner Melee --- Cal-40 - hull number 10, which since about that time has been located a stone's throw from the Los Angeles Yacht Club where we have been members for some time.

The Cal-40 IS IS IS the finest boat ever to come into existence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Some time ago, Jim Eddy (who's had a Cal-40 since God formed the oceans) gave me a list of what appears to be all the Cal-40 commissions. It indicates very early, if not original owners. This may help some owners who are unsure of their hull numbers etc.

I would love to see this list used as a starting point for an effort to identify all current Cal-40 owners and their locations. Let me know what you think of the likelihood that this would lead to more Cal-40 racing.

I understand that your fax number is 330-698-6403. I'm going to fax this list to you. (Editor's note: I received this list but need to re-type it into a text file to get it on the website. Another next winter's project!)

Your website is a dream!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bob Schaeffer Jr

We have a 1968 Cal-34 Hull #136. Wonder if you have a drawing - specs etc. that could be shared? Thanks, J E Thornton, jetcat@erols.com

Editor's note: Yes, I do have quite a bit of data on the 34s. I'll try to get it all entered this coming (soon) winter.

Our web page is listed on Good Old Boats. I just got an email from a guy with a Cal 28 !. I am going to email him about the Good Old Boats and your page. Ruth Summers, Sec/Tres. Cal 29 Association

Man who says it cannot be done, Should not interrupt man doing it. Ancient Chinese Proverb.

Hi, The Cal 9.2 is a great boat. I have hull no.33. The boat is light it has a PHRF of 165. it's hard to sail to this rating. I added a 300 LB bulb to the keel this was a great addition. I race Williwaw on the local Friday night races this boat is a lot of fun.

I have all the original manuals for the boat. Rui

CAL 35 Info I have put some pictures of the CAL 35 Mark I and Mark II up on a web site for you. I also received fax of the original Mark I bochure with copy that can be taken of it as well. If I get a chance I'll type it up for you. There are one or two htm files at the url ref. One is a for a sale listing with a lot of specifications that may help you. It is fairly descriptive. CAL 39 MKIV Info I also have some of the orig brochure info on the CAL 39 MkIV and some photos. If you are interested, I'll see about posting it for you. You can download the CAL35 stuff at http://www.itweb.com/CAL35 Let me know when you do, so I can remove it. Also, let me know if you want the 39 info. Thanks, Rick Richard Spangenberg President & Managing Director InfoTech, Inc. PO Box 31235 Greenwich, CT 06831 Phone: 203-531-9275 Fax: 203-531-4830 Email: rls@itweb.com URL: http://www.itweb.com

I've been searching the net for a CAL website for a long time. I own a 1968 CAL 34 (hull # 23). I have some CAL literature that the previous owner gave me with the boat that I will send to your fax number, (330)698-6403. Let me know if this fax number is no longer valid. I sail on Lake St. Clair in the metro Detroit area.

Please help me to identify a Cal Hull # CAB70292037 6. I would appreciate any information on this hull #. Year built, length, any spec's. Thank you.

Dear Dan, What a great web page!! This site may prove a savior for me. I have the chance to purchase a Cal at a great price. It, however, will require a great deal of work. The price is still less than the project boat that it is. At this time there is some confusion as to just what the boat is. One person has said that it's a Cal 28, another believes it to be a Cal 29 and I have no basis upon which to make a guess. I E-mailed you a very terse request for information on the hull # which is:CAB70292037 6. It has an inboard engine but I can't tell, at this time what brand it is or it's size. The interior cloth has de laminated from the sides from bow to stern and that appears to be the single greatest problem. I'm sure I'll find many more!! I would so appreciate your help and any ones help in identifying the boat and I'm sure to be asking for advice pretty soon. Thank you again for this wonderful web site. Yours truly David Clauss

We have a 1978 Cal 3-30 - still a beauty. As we are sailors who are getting a little long in the tooth, we have decided to set up the sail hoisting etc. so that we can do it from the cock pit. The raised section of the deck poses some problems. Anyone who has brought everything back to the cockpit? Set up jiff reefing? Any/all ideas would be great. Moira O'Brian, Vancouver, Canada

I enjoyed your web site! I found it by looking for specs on a Cal 24. There is one for sale down here in Texas but I have not been able to get the owners on the phone. I have a question if you wouldn't mind - are all the Cal 24's fixed keel or did some of them come with a centerboard? I have no idea what year this one is but I'm sure it is early 70's since they only want $2000 for it. Thanks Dave Wilson dwilson@sulross.edu

I have a 74 Cal 27 (I think type one, it only has a short cabin top, and not a full flush deck). I would like to get the specs, including full rigging specs. It has a strange forward mid stay that looks like it stabilizes the mast. I need a set of sails if anyone has any.

Also, has anyone put a bowsprit on one, ore does this move the sail center too far forward.

Hi, I'm wondering if you'd know where I could find more information on a Lapworth that was built in 1950. It is a 36 foot wooden sloop...that I think was built as a racer. One of the builder's names was Chapman and the other was an Armenian name....but I forgot it exactly.

It is a beatiful boat! I'm living on it and would like to buy it soon, but am wondering about it's history. Also I'm thinking of glassing over the hull and am wondering if I could find a source for advice on the that. I'm in the Bay Area close to San Francisco. Thanks for any help! Denise

It's defiantly not a 2-27, the cabin top ends just aft of the mast, the original book mentions a pop top, but the boat I have has a f/g coach house with two forward facing port holes. The beam is about 8', is this a unique layout? So you have any pics of a type 1 With regards to the stay, thats what I would have thought to, but there is no easy way of adjusting the tension.

Greetings! Great Cal site! I am with a San Diego brokerage and have a Cal 2-46 listed and wondered if you know of any Cal owner websites? (I'm specifically interested in Cal 2-46 owners, obviously, but any help you could be would be much appreciated!!) Michele R. Berrong, Bower & Kling Yachts, (619) 226-7797

Dear Mr. Carman, My husband and I are the proud owners of a 1969 20' Cal. We too are in need of a new rub rail for our boat. The marina where we keep her has informed us that the Cals' from this era had "special" rub rails which are no longer manufactured. In researching rub rails on the internet I discovered your invaluable site and obtained a lot of very helpful information. I would very much appreciate any additional information you could give me on your friend with the rubber extruding business who extruded a new rub rail for your Cal '70.

I am also very interested in learning more about this "space age" material that does not become brittle in the sun. We did discuss replacing the original rub rail with a wooden rub rail but we really would like to keep the boat as close to its original style and condition as possible. Thank you for any assistance you can provide. Very truly yours,Andrea Pohland-Davis thinfo@towerhill.org

As usual, when I read about the venerable Cals, I see nothing of the performance cruiser Cal 30. Mine is Hull No. 90, from 1966, which has been fitted with Harken roller furling and a brand-new 20HP Beta Marine diesel within the last year. I'm preparing to do some off-shore cruising for a couple of years, and I really feel I have the best boat for the job. Same type of boat that appears in the book "Cruising 101" by Sullivan & Donnelly. By the way, I have 100 feet of 3/8 HT chain with 300 feet of 5/8 nylon rode up in the bow, and obviously it's just too much weight for this cutaway keel type of bow. Any ideas? --Bill Morris on "Saltaire" in San Pedro, Calif.

Dan: I enjoyed your web page. I was wondering if you could tell me where could find more information about a cal 25.6...I have been looking at one for my first sailboat weekender purchase. 1982...What is your opinion of this boat ? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Mark from Maryland

we are restoring a 30 ft. cal from the bottom up. we would like to talk with anyone with a cal 30 . any help would be greatly apreciated.

Hi Dan, I enjoyed reading about your favorite sailboats for Lake Erie. I share many of your impressions. While living in Baltimore in the early 80s, I raced an old CAL 27 with a bunch of friends(I think the boat had a pop top). The boat sailed very well, but the thing that I remember is the huge interior. We regularly raced to another port with 6 or 7 crew and all slept aboard. (Come to think of it, I don't remember if we ever really got any sleep)

The following two years, I crewed on a Catalina 27. We raced this boat hard and did extremely well (BOTY twice). I was really impressed how well the boat sailed considering the conservative design and the age. I think this boat, even today, is probably the best value available in any size. It is solid and still looks pretty modern and you can but one for about $5K. I think the visual differences between old and new Catalina 27s are more apparent than you suggest. For example, the old 27 has a near vertical transom.

In the early 90s I moved (back) to Lake Michigan, where I purchased an '84 CAL 24. This was a great little boat. We mainly daysailed and cruised her for weekends. The few times we raced, we did pretty well with her old Dacron sails. I agree that the finish work on the CAL was a notch below the Catalina. I also felt like the hull was not as solid. The storage lockers had cheap plywood covers and the interior was covered with carpeting. Overall, though, we really enjoyed the CAL and even cruised her one year with our newborn son. Then we decided we needed more space.

Our next boat was a Sabre 30. Another great boat, but pretty rare on the great lakes. Ours came from Massachusetts. We owned this one for 5 years and had some great times with our two young kids. We sold her today.

Our new (used) boat will be a 37 foot Tartan. We decided to go for more comfort while the kids are growing. I hope we like the size. I'm sure I will miss the ease of handling a smaller boat, but it sure will be comfortable out in the big lake.

I hope I haven't bored you with this account. For some reason I felt like you may find it interesting. By the way, one manufacturer that you have overlooked is C&C. My family has owned three models: 29, 34, 35mkIII. All are excellent boats with good looks and performance. They probably tend to get a little out of "Chevy" category, but some good deals can be had. Happy Sailing! Tom Young

Editor's note: I never get tired of reading about Cal Yachts and sailing in general. dd

Is there anyone there answering questions? Would love some help on finding tension specs in shrouds and stays for tall mast rig Cal 25 II. Can I connect? Marie

Your web page is great. It is good to see the high level of interest in Cal sailboats. I own a Cal 33, 1986 model. I have quite a bit of information on Cals since I have been interested in them for at least 15 years and owned our current boat for 10 seasons. Our earlier boats were O'Days, so the progression was inevitable.

Our Cal is sailed on Kentucky Lake in the western part of our state. It is similar to a small version of the Chesapeake bay with 50+ miles of fetch up to 2 miles wide with literally tens of smaller bays and hundreds of coves.There is an active sailing club there and there aren't many race events that we have not won with the Cal 33 or on a friend's Cal 24.Great boats.

I would like to up grade the ice box in my cal 29 (74 posb??) I may even consider a refer unit... if I can find a top loader to fit. I don't want to damage the interior wood... can anyone tell me how to gain access to present icebox insulation and dead space.... without taking cabinet area apart ????

I love my cal 29. I got it at very good price 8K !! which allowed me to start a complete refit and I am just finishing. I don't want to alter the interior wood if I can avoid it

Hi Dan. My name is Dave and I live in northern california where I am looking at a 1971 Cal 2-30 for sale. I am trying to find the total mast height for a standard Cal 2-30 because this rig has been modified. Even the dimension from the top of the boom to the deckhouse would help. If the mast height has been shortened from standard then I probably won't buy it. I am also wondering if it is common for the shrouds on these boats to rub against the lifelines.

The dealer back in the 60s and 70s for many boats in the San Francisco area was a man by the name of John Berry. I have tried to contact him but have not been succesful yet. His dealership, I am told, often ordered cal 2-30s with a smaller sail plan. This boat is one of those. Their were apparently two sailplans offered by the factory; the standard, and the masthead rig. This "small rig" appears to be a standard rig with the I, P, and E, modified to 24.5, 38, and 12 feet respectively. The previous owner did some further changing of these dimensions so he claims the I is back to the original 37 and the P is now 35.9. My informatin shows the stadard Cal 2-30 as I = 37, J = 12.3, P = 35, and E = 13.5. Changing the boom is not a big deal when I am ready for a new main sail.

I am curious if the shrouds and spreaders for the small rig are placed differently than the standard or masthead rig. Lastly, how did they come up with a P of 38 feet? was the mast taller then standard? Anyway, any information you can give me on this would be appreciated. Thanks, David W.

Dan, thanks for the great press on Cal 40s. We have hull #15 in our lives and think "Chinook" is about as good as sailing gets. Joe Nelson

I enjoyed your site very much, It's interesting to read the quesions and comments particularly. It's also gratifying to discover so many happy Cal owners!. I sail out of Rock Hall, Maryland, on the Chesapeake and there are not many Cal owners-especially 34s.

I own a 79 Cal III, to which I have made many upgrades, and some interesting (I think!) modifications both above and below. For example, I havae installed a Furlex reefing system; all sheets and halyards are run aft via deck organizers, with a dedicated self-tailing winch for the main. There are two self-tailing primaries set on either side of the wheel , all so that I can single-hand with ease. There is also an Auto-helm autopilot (the best investment I've made.)

I have also added a deck fill for the water tank, so it is no longer necessary to drop a hose through the hatch and lift the v-berth cushions. Also, the shelves in the v-berth havae been enclosed for better and neater storage.

I have been recently considering adding a staysail. There is an eye welded to the mast below the steaming light. I have read articles on converting sloops to cutter rigs, and they have stated that fixed or running backstays were necessary. Would they be necessary in this instance?

We have a 1982 CAL 35. I would like some suggestions on how to 'rehab' the aluminum toe rails. The metal is oxidizing and the hull becomes very dirty over the course of the season. Cleaning and polish has not worked. I'm considering painting it as a last resort but would welcome alternatives.

Where can I get info on CAL 34 MK III and current value? Your prompt attention to this matter is appreciated. Thanks

I have recently bought a cal 28 with a universal atomic 4 motor. I really need information on this. I am also looking for a new or used atomic 4 motor for mine, please if you can send information to this address. thank you!

Hey, great WEB page. I've got plenty of experience with Cal boats, but am new to the Internet. I had a Cal 20 for 4 years, and now have a 1979 Cal 25. I spent 18 days on a Cal 34 mark III some twenty years ago, and worked at a sailboat rental in Marina Del Rey in the 80's that rented Cal 20's and one Cal 25. Glad to know there are others who admire Bill Lapworth's work.

Anyway, the picture you have of a "flat top" Cal 25 is, I believe, actually a flat top Cal 24. I could be wrong, but there seems to be only one main cabin window and a small window for the head, while all the pop-top (what I have always referred to them as) Cal 25's I have seen (which are dozens as I have sailed in So. Cal my whole life) have two main cabin window and a window in the head. Also, the sliding top that pops up to provide standing head room does not appear long enough or have enough sections (3) to be a 25. Can't see the headstay, but I'd bet it was a 7/8 rig.

But hey, I didn't write just to try and show off -- there was an e-mail from someone asking if anyone had stepped a Cal 25 mast. Well, I haven't yet, but am about to drop mine to replace the standing rigging. I couldn't figure out how to respond to the e-mail. Any advice?

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get back to your WEB site. I wish computers were as easy to handle as sailboats.

I just sent you an e-mail explaining that I thought you had a picture of a Cal 24, not a Cal 25. Then I looked at your Cal 24/25 whatchamacallit (page?) and saw the e-mail from the guy who supposedly corrected your previous opinion that it was a 24. I think he is wrong. I am familiar with the original Cal 24 that Robin Graham sailed as the first Dove. However, there were a few flat-top Cal 24's built that looked a lot like the ubiquitous Cal 25. I think you were correct to begin with--it's a Cal 24.

We just purchased a 1972 Cal 21 and could use any kind of help you can offer. We are learning how to sail. So far, we have the mast up on the boat (in the driveway) and that's as far as we have gotten. Where can we get a diagram for rigging the boat? Also, we are not sure of how to raise and lower the keel. Any advice you can offer to beginners will be very much appreciated. Thank you very much. Audrey and John Pasternak, Cleveland, Ohio

Dan, I am a happy Cal 2-27 owner in Muskegon, MI and have corresponded with you before. I wonder if you can suggest some ideas for replacing the rub rail. Two seasons ago my old rubber rail came off while we were in a storm in Lake Michigan. I was able to find a replacement rubber rail from Wefco Rubber Manufacturing in Canoga Park, CA. Already this season I tore the new rub rail when we hit the square edge of a piling on our dock. Hard to explain, but the low lake water levels placed the rub rail at just the wrong level, leading to this mishap.

In any case, I wonder if you have done any upgrading or replacing of your rubrail. I imagine you have the same set up as me, with a rubber rail which snaps over a flange on the hull-deck joint. I thought perhaps I could fashion a more durable wooden rail. Any thoughts?

By the way, you might enjoy peeking at my web site, www.novagate.net/~mgalvin. It has one picture of my Cal 2-27, Miss Adventure, and a bunch of pictures of my construction of a dinghy. Michael Galvin, Muskegon, MI

My beloved Cal is for sale. She's an older model 1971, but completely rebuilt with loving care.

Work includes West bottom, kelly green Awl-grip topsides, mahogany rubrail, cherry & ash cabin sole and interior woodwork, new spreaders, solar panel, large sail inventory, new tiller, custem anchor platform, and more... . She's a joy to sail & comfortable for cruising with 2-4 people. The boat is in Annapolis, MD. The engine is an Evinrude 9.5 (long shaft). The engine was just rebuilt with new rings, water pump, ignition system (new coils, points, ht wires, condensers, etc),rebuilt lower end, and gaskets.

The boat's specs are as follows; Beam- 9', water line- 22'3'', Disp.- 5500 lb, Ballast- 2500 lb, LOD- 27'4", Sail inventory-110% working jib, .5 oz spinnaker, 130% genoa, 1.5 oz spinnaker, 180% genoa, Blopper, 120% top-jib (nice off wind), Main, stay sail, drifter, Tall-boy

Asking $7,000. Contact me at gdownin@juno.com (301) 277-3847 Thanks, Thomas.

I LIKED YOUR HOME PAGE. I HAVE A CAL 9.2 IN SÃO SEBASTIÃO, WHERE STOPED WHITBREAD IN BRAZILIAN LEG. I LOVE MY CAL. I AM WORKING IN ONE HOME PAGE ABOUT A ADVENTURES IN MY SAIL BOAT. I AND ONE MY FRIEND, WILL GO TO TRAVEL AT CAL IN BRAZILIAN CRUIZING COAST. SORRY MY BAD WORD ENGLISH.

STAND YOUR RESPONSE. GOOD WINDS, FERNANDO

i own a 1980 cal 25 with an o.m.c. inboard.i have the original owners manual and the master carpenters certificate.this boat was built at costa mesa ca. (200 kalmus drive)by bangor punta marine.if this info would further your research i would be pleased to copy and forward it.thanks for the page. regards don

I am always looking for any information anyone has on a cal 28. I would greatly welcome any information you have on it to be sent to the following e-mail address parnell_stephen@hotmail.com thank you for any thing you can send to me. Also if you know where I could get any more information please send it as well.

Both Cal and Ranger were made by Lear Siegler Marine who had Bill Lapworth as a designer. Lear Siegler was owned by Bangor Punta. The also owned O'Day, Jensen Marine and several other companies that made powerboats.

They got out of the business in the mid eighties. It's very likely that your Ranger may have been designed by Bill Lapworth, or was a knock off of the CAL 27. The Cal 27 was actually 26' 6" I don't know what year your boat is. They built several versions,1971 through 1976 the Ranger 26 was 26' 3" They didn't build it in 1977 or 78. 1980 & 81 the Ranger 26 was 25' 6". The records I have shows they didn't build them after 1981. Some of this came from A Sailor's Guide to Production Yachts by Roger Marshall published 1986 by Hearst Marine Books, some came from the BUC Used Boat Price Guide 1905-1981 published by BUC Research, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Sorry it took a year to answer your question but I just discovered this site while researching Bangor Punta. Peter D. Eikenberry Sr, Recreational Boating Product Assurance Division, U. S. COAST GUARD, G-OPB-3 , http://www.uscgboating.org , PEikenberry@comdt.uscg.mil, (202) 267-6894 Fax (202) 267-4285

Purchased the above Cal at the end of last season - Fall 98 - from a Maritime Academy with absolutely no drawings, amuals, layouts, etc. Your web site has been great in filling in some of the blanks but had to have someoneelse put the boat up for the Winter very quickly and now I'mm trying to find a diagram of the standing and running rigging for reference as the pictures on the web page are indicating to me thar I may have some hybrid form. Any help, or suggestions would be much appreciated as it's getting time to get it in the water and the guy who took it appart has no clue. An E-mail to printworks@cybertours.com would be great - Thanks - John Mitchell

I have a copy of a sales brochure of a 1960's Cal 28 that I'll fax to you. I currently own a 28, outboard powered which I have had for 6 years now. I have yet to find the hull no. anywhere on the boat. The CF no.'s are what is used for my hull no. on the title. The boat is a pleasure to sail. You have a great web page I hope you can add to it as information becomes available.

Just "stumbled" on to your web page while doing a Cal 20 search. I am looking for "coffee table" books or other pictorials featuring the Cal 20. I need this for a gift to give to a long time Cal 20 owner. Any help would be appreciated.

Great web page you have there. Lots of data and user friendly. Spent last week visiting friends on the west coast. Saw many old Cal's being worked on and being prepared for the summer. Thanks, Stan

Hello. I found your web site via the CAL Email list. I have a great deal (or at least I think I do) of information on the CAL28. It is in the form of most of the original sales material and manuals. Is this the type of information you want for your web site? What is the best way to get it to you. I have a scanner and would be happy to create electronic copies of any info I have. Please let me know... Thanks, Matt, 1987 28' CAL "Lady T"

I'm getting ready to make an offer on a Cal 40, it needs a lot of tlc but the hull appears strong, one of the very early hulls. The gas engine is not working and probably won't (I'm tending towards replacing with a small diesel). The sails are old, except for a relatively new 155 jib, mast hasn't been pulled in over 10 years, appears to have some galvanic problems, hull was painted over 10 years ago and is peeling.

If she surveys well, which I think she will, do you have any ideas about what to offer for her without a broker. I'm thinking new LP paint job, roller furling, lazy jacks, since I love to sail but am getting older, new diesel, new main, maybe recut almost new jib for roller furling; any guesses on what it will cost to recondition this beautiful but sadly neglected cal 40. Perhaps more important, what are the questions I should be asking about cal 40s? Are there certain recurrent problems, certain leaks, certain rigging problems, etc? Bob babamar@aol.com

I'm so excited about my finding this cal 40 I just asked all the questions about that I forgot to complement you on your web page. I haven't looked extensively yet but I would hope there would be some sharing of problems that have occurred over the years and what the solutions have been. If you can bring me up to speed in a hurry with some websites or other owners, I'd appreciate it as I don't want to let this one get away, but I don't want to sell the farm to buy her either. thanks, Bob babamar@aol.com

Dan, I have some old(er) dealer spec. sheets, price lists and photos for California 20, California 30 (dated 1962), and California 24. Interested? If you say you will be good with them and want to keep them, I can send you the originals (they are not museum pieces, come on...) or I can send you good Xerox copies. Your choice. Let me know. Thank you for your site. I am not a Cal owner, just a surveyor. Pierre Helias, Marina del Rey, CA

The prop on my Cal 2-29, Farryman Diesel is fixed 2 blade "Federal" 12" dia with a 12" pitch. I do not know for certain if this is the original prop, or even the optimum pitch for this boat/motor. Any opinions? Paul Duval, E-mail: Callisto@banet.net Homport: CPYC, Winthrop, MA.

Hi, I am the fellow you quoted as still in love with his CAL-40. I also have worked up a web page. Might be of interest. http://www.woodex-meco.com/astarte/

The boat is now for sale. Regards, Dave Bowers, dbowers@coastalnet.com Pungo Marine - http://www.maine.com/woodex . 250 Pungoview, TEL(252)964-6190 FAX(252)964-6153, Belhaven, NC 27810 Alt Tel for messages (800)526-8800

How do I get in touch with the Cal-Pearson "company" ? they don't appear to have a web site - Dave. David Hutzelman, 12415 Woodthorpe Lane, Houston TX 77024, Tel: 713-464-6603, Fax 713-464.8887, Email: hutzedw@swbell.net

From: David Hutzelman hutzedw@swbell.net To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: No subject. Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 5:47 PM

Please disregard my last request -- I found the information in the FAQ's -- thanks

I have sailed a number of different boats and I am interested in the Cal 40. I am just now beginning my search---- your web page is great--- you have put alot of work into it. Thanks

Any advice or information appreciated. I have never sailed before but have always wanted to learn. Recently a friend steered me to a 1971 Cal-29 for sale that I could probably pick up for about $5,000. The boat is in fair shape with all sails and 30 hp atomic-4 and sea worthy. To me it sounds like a great deal but my question, is this too much boat for me? I have searched the web including your site and can not find too much on the Cal-29 specifically. What are the ups and downs of this model and is there anything I should look out for? I will be learning to sail this boat on Lake Erie Initially. Thanks in advance for any advice or information you can offer. Daniel Culliton

HELLO, MY NAME IS SHANNON IN OCTOBER 98 I BOUGHT A LAPWORTH SLOOP L-40-9 I NEED ANY INFORMATION, DRAWINGS, RIGGING INFO. PICTURES WHATEVER PLEASE HELP ME. I'M IN DESPERATE NEED THE BOAT WAS TAKEN APART. THANK YOU. PLEASE REPLY ASAP.

Dear Mr. Dalrymple, May 24, 1999. After briefly looking at your Web site, it became apparent that you know CAL sailboats. Can you help me identify a CAL boat that I may buy, and estimate a price range that might be reasonable?

I'll try to make a long story as short as possible. In 1993 a friend of mine named Susan "acquired" a CAL 22, though she knew almost nothing about sailing. She has kept up the boat, recently making $300 in leak repairs. Now she realizes that she just is not interested in learning to sail the boat, as she now has a small child. She knows that I want to buy a similar boat, so she has asked if I want to buy her boat. I have sailed her boat a couple of times, so I a vaguely familiar with the boat. However, she and the boat are in Atlanta (on a man-made lake) and I am currently living in Saudi Arabia, but am about to move back to Atlanta. Susan THINKS the boat is a 1985 model. She was told that the hull number is CABTOO34C585, but she doesn't know where to look on the boat to find the number. In looking on the Internet for pricing of a 1985 CAL 22, Nadaguides does not list that size for that year, so we are not even sure if CAL made 22' sailboats in 1985. The boat has a 1989 Honda engine, so Susan suspects that the boat might have been made in 1989. Susan and I both want to establish a fair price, but neither of us knows what that should be.

The boat has a roller jib, and has a depth gauge (that "sorta" works and is thus unreliable), It also has two other gauges: wind speed and boat speed. Are there any other accessories that might effect the price?

Do you have any idea WHERE on the boat Susan can look to confirm the hull number?

I can tell by the volume in your Web site that you are a busy man on this volunteer project. I was/am so excited to find out about your love and enthusiasm for CAL sailboats. For now I will probably be sailing almost single-handedly (with my 8 year old son), so the 22' is the most I/we can MAYBE handle. Hopefully, eventually, I can step up to the 2-27'. Thank you so much for your time and interest! Lynn Paul paul@sahara.com.sa

Have a comment and a question about the CAL 2-27 1. Atomic 4 is supposed to put out 30 HP at 3500 RPM 2. If the Atomic 4 is functioning correctly how fast should it push a CAL 2-27?

Dan.......I love your web site and read with interest all about the Cal boats. Mine is a 1971 model of the pop-top. Of course that is the Cal-27. The original as far as I know. Mine is number 60 and I am the fifth owner. I have fixed her up very well and she looks almost like new. Originally she had a Czechoslovakian one cylinder diesel engine which, I am told, wouldn't push her against the current. I have since put a 15 hp, four cycle outboard engine on her stern. My wife and I use her throughout the San Francisco bay area and berth her at the Vallejo Yacht Club.

I enclose a couple of photos of her if you care to see them. The photo of her sailing was taken at Raccoon Strait in SF Bay. With best regards and thanks for the web page. Dick Decius

Dear Dan, I really appreciate your web page! I own a 1969 Cal 29, hull # 16. I grew up in So.Cal about 5 miles from Jensen Marine ,Costa Mesa during the 60's and 70's. I always thought that someone should write a book about Lapworth and Cal Yachts and their impact on the sailboat industry. I've had the privilege of sailing on Cals 20,21,25,27,2-27,29,3-30,34,36,40,2-46 over the years.Like you I also aspire to own a Cal-40 someday especially after reading about owners like Stan Honey from San Francisco.My Cal 29 is optimized for solo sailing and light air efficiency.It's easy to modify a Cal for different situations without compromising the basic boat.

I look forward to your continued efforts to document the Cal legacy. Rick Blethen,e-mail: info@kcinc.com

In the pursuit of finding the origin of various deck leaks I have had to remove the original plastic headliner. The headliner was in less than acceptable condition to begin with and during the removal process it cracked in a couple of places. My wife and I are planning to completely redo the interior including the headliner now. I would like to know if any other Cal owners have replaced the headliners and if so how. Everyones advise would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, winhead@gate.net

I own a Cal 28 1986 have done many things to bring it back. Let me know your questions. FALLEN1022@AOL.COM Fred

Need to know handicap approx for a Cal 27-3 with tall mast and deep fin keel

Beats me all hollow ... I have a Cal 28 -2 with shoal draft my HC is 192 Cal 27 over 200 doesn't make sense to me. Fred

Dear Mr. Dalrymple, May 25, 1999. Thanks to information that we obtained from your WEB site, I have determined that the boat I had asked you about is a 1985 CAL 22. Do you have a recommendation of a fair price for this boat, or can you tell me where I might look for a fair price for it?

Thank for your your time! Lynn Paul

I had previously written: Dear Mr. Dalrymple, May 24, 1999. After briefly looking at your Web site, it became apparent that you know CAL sailboats. Can you help me identify a CAL boat that I may buy, and estimate a price range that might be reasonable?

I'll try to make a long story as short as possible. In 1993 a friend of mine named Susan "acquired" a CAL 22, though she knew almost nothing about sailing. She has kept up the boat, recently making $300 in leak repairs. Now she realizes that she just is not interested in learning to sail the boat, as she now has a small child. She knows that I want to buy a similar boat, so she has asked if I want to buy her boat. I have sailed her boat a couple of times, so I a vaguely familiar with the boat. However, she and the boat are in Atlanta (on a man-made lake) and I am currently living in Saudi Arabia, but am about to move back to Atlanta. Susan THINKS the boat is a 1985 model. She was told that the hull number is CABTOO34C585, but she doesn't know where to look on the boat to find the number. In looking on the Internet for pricing of a 1985 CAL 22, Nadaguides does not list that size for that year, so we are not even sure if CAL made 22' sailboats in 1985. The boat has a 1989 Honda engine, so Susan suspects that the boat might have been made in 1989. Susan and I both want to establish a fair price, but neither of us knows what that should be.

The boat has a roller jib, and has a depth gauge (that "sorta" works and is thus unreliable), It also has two other gauges: wind speed and boat speed. Are there any other accessories that might effect the price?

Do you have any idea WHERE on the boat Susan can look to confirm the hull number?

I can tell by the volume in your Web site that you are a busy man on this volunteer project. I was/am so excited to find out about your love and enthusiasm for CAL sailboats. For now I will probably be sailing almost single-handedly (with my 8 year old son), so the 22' is the most I/we can MAYBE handle. Hopefully, eventually, I can step up to the 2-27'. Thank you so much for your time and interest! Lynn Paul paul@sahara.com.sa

Dan.......Thanks for your response to my e-mail on the Cal-27. You are keen to note all of the things you picked out on the boat and engine. I shall ramble on a bit and try to answer your questions. First point, though, is that I do have the manufacturer's (builder's) original owner's manual. I shall send it to you after retrieving it from the boat where I keep it in a water tight bag. To be honest, though, it doesn't contain much real information. Although I believe it has all of the things you ask about. The running rigging is specified and sized. You will make your own judgement on its value. It will be some days until I pick it up. I have replaced the rigging on my boat and went the next step up in stainless steel wire size.

I'll talk about the outboard.....I am a traditional sailor, enjoying the old style lines, and dislike having an engine hanging on the stern of a sailboat. Having said that, however, I agree with you completely about the convenience, space considerations, ease of maintenance, etc and therefore went for the Suzuki four stroke. I paid $2730, including tax, with a six year full guarantee. This was in January 1997. It is the 15 hp, long shaft, model. I then bought a stern mount designed for the engine which weighs 107 pounds. This works fine and can let you move the engine out of the water while sailing. (No need to tilt the engine unless you want to) The 9.9 hp weighs about 92 pounds (approx.). The 9.9 hp is all that is needed to push the Cal. I went larger because I know my son would want more power if he takes over when I am gone. The boat won't move any faster because the hull speed is about 6.5 knots. The engine is quiet, uses little fuel and I like it. I agree that the battery charge is less than enough, but I dockside charge my two 12 volt deep cycle batteries.

But two things need to be understood; the fresh water flush design is awful. It is OK for flushing in your driveway but not leaning over the stern of a sailboat. I know that you don't have to worry about salt water. The other thing.....the mechanism which locks the engine in the down position seems to release unbeknown to the operator, and a reverse action on the propeller causes the engine to fly upward, resulting in a banging action with no reverse thrust. Very annoying. I continually check to make sure the lever is in the up right position which is supposed to lock the engine down. I have removed the outboard steering handle and tightened the screw to make the engine stationary. (That is, no turning) All controls (throttle and gear shift) are done by cables passing through plastic (pvc) tubing under the deck to the control panel at the front of the cockpit. I control the boat with the tiller and the engine controls at my right hand side. The handle is not really in the way but can be hit by a leg if one isn't aware of it's presence. Backing the boat in calm water is effortless, but in windy or rough water conditions with the engine revving up, the propeller (being aft of the tiller) tends to draw the boat backward rather than allowing the boat to follow the rudder. I account for this by getting backward way, then putting the engine in neutral. The boat then follows the rudder very well. I can back into my slip quite well. Someone else might prefer to use the outboard for steering. I start the engine electrically from the control handle. One bad feature is to dash aft to push in the choke after starting.

By the way, I installed a 13 gallon fuel tank under the cockpit floor rather than having the portable fuel tank under the cockpit hatch which violated the Coast Guard safety code because of venting under deck. I read the fuel capacity gage on a panel.

I shall be glad to talk boats with you anytime. You may do with the photos whatever you like. I shall send along another shot for some detail. The manual will follow later. Dick

Cabintop traveler: Cal 29 Has anyone put a cabintop traveler on a Cal 29, or similar boat? Any advice, recommendations? Any ideas of sources for a used traveler with risers suitable for this use? Alfred Poor, poor@bellatlantic.net

I bought a cal25 last august and when the mast was removed I failed to keep track of shroud tensions. Next week when I raise the mast I do not have a clue on setting the shrouds for a straight mast. Any help in this reguard would be great. Could send any reply to RAZ1@daimlerchrysler.com . Thanks

EDITOR's note: You can ask 100 sailors this question and you'll get 100 different answers. So here goes. . . I don't race, but here's how I usually do it from scratch. Step your mast, adjust the turnbuckles "just good and snug", not supertight. During this adjustment, constantly lay at the bottom of the mast looking upward along the mast, and make sure mast doesn't get an unwanted "bend, belly or kink" during the adjustment. Also continually sight from the dock at the front/rear of the boat making sure that the mast is centered In other words, snug up the wire rigging evenly and keep the mast fairly straight. Onother way to keep the mast centered is to check the turnbuckles opposite each other. They (opposites) should have about the same amount of thread used.

Now, allow the boat to set for a week or two and the boat will bend slightly into it's new loading (the boat can be sailed during this time). The stays will "slack off" slightly. While at dock, adjust everything "good and snug" again. Now take the boat out for a sail in a nice breeze. Head up on one tack or the other. While on 1st tack adjust the leeward side stays about halfway enough to remove the slack. Then head up on the other tack, firm up the other side stays, again, sighting up the mast so as to keep the mast straight and even.

As for the fore/aft mast adjustment, always adjust with the backstay adjuster slacked off. If you have forward/aft side lowers, I always keep the fwd lowers slightly tighter than the aft lowers. Actually, I just tighten the fwd lowers during the initial tuning, then just slightly snug the aft lowers after all the tuning is completed. Tighten the fore/aft stays to the point that the set of blocks in the backstay adjuster feel right. If you have fore/aft side lowers, you should be able to pull some bend in the mast with the backstay adjuster.

Note: Initial fore/aft mast bend is learned thru the years. If you have new crisp sails, you should probably use a fairly straight mast but if you're running some old, blown out rags like most of my sails you may want a few inches of mast bend from the start. Mast bend helps flatten a main and does not effect the jib or genny. Mast bend can be easily seen by lying down on deck with your head looking up the mast.

Dear Dan, We found your Cal Web site today. My husband, Todd, and myself, Ellen, live and cruise aboard our Cal 34 Mandolin. Mandolin is a 1970 Cal 34, the original design. We have just returned to California after spending seven months cruising in Mexico. Thought you might be interested in our web page which has all of our cruising trip logs, a Cal 34 line drawing and pictures of our trip.

Please let us know what you think. We noticed you didn't have much info about Cal 34s.

Todd and Ellen Mandeville, S/V "Mandolin" - Cal 34, svmandolin@hotmail.com www.aljian.com/mandolin

Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:06:01 -0600 From: "R. H. (Dick) Laughlin" Reply-To: rhlaughlin@cnmnetwork.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Cam Cleat.

I have a CAL25. On the bottom of the boom on the mast end there is a cam cleat that goes through the bottom of the boom. One side is used for reefing and the other side is used for the cunningham. Does any one know who made these parts or where I can buy them? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Are the cam cleats mounted on a formed stamped stainless steel bracket that wraps partially around the bottom of the boom? The cam cleats mounted back-to-back on either side of the vertical part of the bracket?

If yes, the part was (still is??) made by Ronstan or NicroFico in Australia. West Marine carries Ronstan parts and your local store probably has a Ronstan catalog. --scott

thanks for the information--looks like I have a problem--mine only goes 3.5 knots right now. Rob Hildebrand

I have a Cal 2-27. The Atomic 4 was replaced by a universal M4-30. This is a 25hp diesel and has more than enough hp. I attain hull speed at 2000 rpm with a 3 blade prop, use the origional strut and get an hour to the quart of fuel at 1900 rpm.

We have a 1974 Cal3-30. We want to lead the main halyard back to the cockpit. The cowling poses a problem. Has anyone put their lines through this cowling- by drilling a hole - or simply put the leads on the top of the cowling. Our concern si that if we drill in the cowling it may cause leaks. Moira O'Brian of Lara Beth

I also have cal 22 (1986). I saw my 1ST one about 1983 or 84 and wanted one ever sense. I finely got one in 96. A company in RI had the molds and was going to build them again, don't know if they ever did. (Little Harbor boats or something like that)

I sail mine on SF bay and it is great boat for the bay. The only problem I have had has been the toe rail, the life lines stantions and the rudder. I re-bedded life line stantions and that fixed the leaks, but the other owner had over tightened the bolts and cracked the top side (jell coat).

The toe rail screws were coming out so I removed the rail and drilled though holes and bolted them through. They look great and will not come loose. I did have to remove the teak "eye brow's" one was broken and I have not found a replacement for it.

The rudder seam was starting to leak so I ground it even, dried it out, then fiber glassed over the seam to seal it. It has not been a problem for the last 3 years and after a fresh coat of paint it even looks good. I guess you can tell I like my boat. David Smith

Hi. My name is Alex. My dad owns a cal 22. In a storm last year he lost the rudder to the boat and he wants me to find a new one. If you have one he can buy or if you now a place where I could go to help in my search could you please email me? Thanks. Ejagillis@mediaone.net

I am interested in purchasing a Cal. What should I do to it to make it very reliable for ocean crossings? Do I need to worry about a Cal for long ocean crossings?

Thanks for the tips. Are there any models of Cals that I need to avoid?

Amber and Art, You don't mention the size of the Cal that you are going to use for ocean travel. I mention this due to what I call the "comfort level". Many Cal 24s and 27s have crossed oceans but if I were to go, I would much prefer a Cal 39 or 40 due to the way they ride, the increased speed, the supply carrying ability of the larger boat, and several other reasons.

Cal Yachts were very well built. Hundreds of Cals have crossed oceans. There are many Cals, right now, on oceans all over the world.

To make it reliable? Number one: Use good, common sense preparing for, and during the crossing. Carry a good EPIRB, life raft, GPS. Double check all sail rigging, chainplates and bulkheads before an ocean cruise. Cals had decent rigging but if I sailed an older Cal offshore I would replace all mast stays, halyards with new, a size larger. Carry plenty of fresh water (in separate containers). "Go fast" sails are great but don't forget good storm sails. Keep a good watch at all times looking for other boats but also for floating objects such as floating empty containers lost from container ships. Reduce sail and slow down during dark nights. Time your offshore trips when moon offers the most light (full or nearly full moon). Dan Dalrymple, editor.

I have a 9.2, 1980 vintage. Structurally, there seem to be no problems. We have even taken spreaders in the water broaches/knockdowns. We race the boat on Western Long Island Sound where it rates PHRF 174. In the prevelant conditions, -smooth water, light wind-we do pretty well, although the "modern" boats give us problems often.

Glad to have found your site. Mike Robinson, "White Goose"

I need a rudder for a Cal 25. Mine is bent beyond repair - reef landing!!! Located at Kaneohe Yacht Club, Hawaii. Thanks, Fred Davis

Dan.......I hope that you received my note (e-mail) to you discussing the Suzuki out board engine which I use on my Cal-27. I talked about several things to note when using the engine. Also, I told you that I have the original owner's manual for the original Cal 27, pop-top model, built in 1971.

I have been holding a copy for you but find it inconvenient to scan it into the computer. If you will send me a snail mail address I shall mail it to you for whatever use you may find for it. I consider it a worthless document except for the last page which gives the rigging sizes, etc.

Best to you, Dick Decius (sailboat@napanet.net)

PS I had no trouble ordering new rub rail (original style rubber) from the Richmond, California based boatyard named Bay Ship and Yacht. The yard contacted a firm which bought up the Cal dyes for the rubber. I think it cost me $300 for the length (all one piece) needed to do my boat.

Cal 21 Main, Jib, Genoa, Spinnaker - 6HP OMC Good Condition - Getting Larger Cal - $1800.00 Norfolk, Va 757-717-7711

From: cedarholm To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Cal 28 Shoal Draft specs Date: Thursday, June 10, 1999 11:09 PM I'm interested in Cal 28 Shoal Draft for sale in Maine and was looking for some specs (i.e.draft, displacement)and/or comments on he boat, its handling, how trailerable is it realy. You get the Idea. Much appreciated in NH.

Thanks so much for you information on CAL boats. We are looking at Liberty Doug McCance's boat at Carlyle Lake. As "luck" would have it there are Three CAL 27 MKIII for sale at the same marina!?

We are fairly sure a CAL 27 is a good boat for us. We are looking at an S-2 8.5 and a '87 CAT27 too. Your website and all the information has been very helpful in determining what to consider in selecting the right boat for us. Thanks for putting it all together!

Good Sailing! John

I have a Cal-20, sail # 783. The boat is in excellent, very clean condition, new pulpit, 6 hp Johnson, running lights, depth sounder, ship to shore, many sails. I would like to sell it somewhere around $4,000 - 4,500.00. The boat is on Lake Saint Clair, east side of Detroit, MI. My phone # is (313) 885-2481. Also, what other sites should I place an add? Thanks for your help, Pam

Dan, My wife & I were given, yes GIVEN, a 1966 Cal 25. sail #938. We sail out of Long Beach, Calif. & are interested in communicating with other Cal owners. We met one couple from Alamitos Bay, Calif. and would like to met more. Anyone interested please email: RNRLeer@juno.com.

I have owned a Snowbird #2, Windrose 24, Columbia 39, Columbia 27. All good boats. I really admire & appreciate this boat for her speed, agility and low maintenance. My wife appreciates her flat foredeck, sunbathing you know. Have hit your site twice now & enjoy the questions and info. Bob

Dan, Are you still minding this web-site??? All the responses I have seen appear to be from 1998. (Editor's note: Sorry about that . . . Sometimes I don't get these emails posted very quickly during the short Ohio sailing season . . . )

In regards to what you call "flat-top" cal 24's, these boats were properly refered to as Cal 2-24's. This indicated a "racing" configuration. The same designation was given to the Cal 2-30 of that period (1968-1970). The picture of hull # 92 wa quite interesting to me as I have been the owner of hull # 93 since 1970. She is currently out of service with very bad deck de-lamination and weakness due to a long lay-up while I was overseas....but, I have every intention of restoring "La Petite Chere" and enjoying her for many more years!

Please reply if this site is active as I have some questions...and maybe a few answers if anyone is still interested! Ricky Bond

Dan, I forgot to list my address: Bond_Ricky@hotmail.com

West Sound Marina is looking for a prop shaft strut for a Cal 27-2 made in 1978 and we are not even sure where to start looking. Please if you have any thoughts or suggestions email us at sailnut@rockisland.com or phone us at (360) 376 2314. Thank you very much. Betsy Wareham.

PS This is the most informative website yet!!!!

1968 Cal 30. RF, A-4, PW, Autopilot, LORAN, dark blue hull. Located Milwaukee, WI. $15,900. Call 414-228-1573, 414-607-0060. E-mail trikricsan@aol.com

I enjoyed your web pages on the Cal sailboats. I have a 1974 Cal T/2 the same hull as a 2-27 I think with a deeper keel. Lots of fun to sail. I have an original blue print of the of the sail plan with the design date. Michael, Sercis@msn.com

I sent in a response to question 53 about 3 weeks ago and did not see it posted. (Editor's note: Sorry about that . . . Sometimes I don't get these emails posted very quickly during the short Ohio sailing season . . . )

Here is my response to Question#53 (cal 22), by the way I did not see it listed in your boat spec page. Do you need the data? The call 22 is an extent boat, it can out sail all most all other 22-23's out there. It is also built better.

Answer to Question #53

The Cal 22 was built from about 1984-1986. It came in two basic types, deep keel (3.5 draft), and wing keel (2.5 draft). There was also a tall rig. I have the deep keel that I sail on San Francisco Bay. This is a good boat for the bay with the bay's winds and tide currents, the boat is fast and dry. I do trailer it to other sailing grounds but with the deep keel I have to find very deep lunch ramps. I know of about 3 boats in this area and one of them is raced around Santa Cruz and it comes in 1st quite often. I have an old sales pamphlet and an owners manual, that I can copy. There is a sail loft in the SF area that has can make sails.

I have added, a backstay adjuster using the split stay and some blocks, traveler control, a topping lift, and brought all control lines to the cock pit. I would like to hear form other Cal 22 owners. David Smith, dsmith@level1.com

Just thought you'd like to know that there are several CAL 20's still sailing on Lake St. Clair. Crescent Sail Yacht Club in Grosse Pointe Farms has 13 or 14 of them in the water. They race one-design races on Wednesday nights June through August and almost every Sunday morning from mid-May through September.

Right now there are at least three Cal 20's for sale in the Detroit Area. Two are in this week's Detroit Metro area Trading Times. There have also been a couple of ads in the Detroit Free Press recently. One ad says the boat is in excellent condition and they are asking close to $5,000 for it. Most sell in the $2,000 to $3,000 range. Condition varies significantly.

One of the Cal 20 owners at Crescent has his for sale. I think he is asking less than $3,000 and that includes an excellent double axle trailer.

If you put this item in your CAL web page, please feel free to put my e-mail address in there. Home phone is (313) 882-4286. Thanks. John Young

I have a damaged main mast on a Cal 2-46 Ketch rig. Any information on availability, interchangability or suggestions for finding a (preferably used) mast would be much appreciated.

I acquired a 1968 CAL 28 this spring with no info on this boat. With help from some guys on my dock we got the rigging up and all the lines run. The boat was fitted prior to my purchase with loads of Harken blocks and components and we did figure everything out. However the main sail is really bad and would like some info as to where to get the best for the money replacement. Also, can anyone give me any history on this boat? It rides like a Caddy and looks great otherwise. I understand Cal Yachts made an awfully tough boat back then.

Thankyou, Ross Shefchik, shefchir@mayville.com

In response to Angie Richardson's question on welding the ear back on her mast step: I brought my cal 28 step brk't in to work and had a welder re-heliarc weld it and grind it back down flush. It seems to be doing just fine. And it only cost me a can of Coke. I'm sure the aluminum casting molds still exist somewhere on a dusty shelf right next to a pile of brk'ts. that hve been forgoten about. Good luck trying to find one. Ross Shefchik, "The Rossness Monster"

Sent for sale ad on 6-16-99, havent seen it. Am I doing something wrong? Here is the ad again. Please mail if you need more info. Thanks Rick Danielson

CAL-30- 1968- Atomic-4, Furling, A-pilot, LORAN, P-H2O, VHF, DS, Life sling, CG equiped. Many extras. Dark blue hull painted a few years ago. This boat has all the cruising stuff we all want and without spending a fortune to buy it new. "REALITY" is located in Milwaukee, WI . and is for sale for the small sum of $15,900. Use of slip is included for the balance of the season if needed. Reason for selling? What else. Bigger boat of course. She's been to Burmuda twice. Where do you want to go?

Contact: Bill Staat, 414-228-1573, or Rick Danielson, 414-607-0060. Also E-mail at trikricsan@aol.com.

I have been searching around the net attempting to find something about Cal sailboats and fortunately came upon your wonderful web page. I own a 1972 Cal T-2 tall rig, that I purchased in 1974. The boat was originally designed as a 1/2 ton racer to be sailed on the California coast. The interior is the same as the 27 however the deck has an unusual shape and mostly flat from the mast to the bow. The design is great for working the fore deck. The boat is in excellent shape and has never been out of Lake Lanier northeast of Atlanta.

In the late 1970's and early 1980's the big competition in racing on Lake Lanier were the Cal 27's, the Catalina 27's and the Morgan 27's. The Morgan's were the boats to beat with the Cal's next and tall rig Catalina's 27's last.

Perhaps you can help me in locating a rub rail for the T-2. The original was damaged and now trashed. I never really cared for it cause the white rubber kept fading and bleeding down on the navy blue hull. Do you know of anyone who may carry supplies that will fit the Cal? Thanks for any assistance and keep on writing about Cal. Lawson Forrester lawsonf@america.net

Dear Dan, Thank for putting the information about the Cal 27's on a web page. We just bought a Cal 27 Mark 3 and were wondering about what Portsmouth the club would give us. We were able to help them after reading your web page. Thank you for your time with the Cal 27's. Sincerely, Joel Mellman, Elm Creek, NE

I have a cal 33 1986 and am trying to understand your problem. Is the bulkhead moving up and down relative to the hull or is the deck moving relative to the bulkhead? I may not be able to help but I know that you will love the boat. From stem to stern it is a great boat. Can I ask the selling price and equipment?

I have a cal 33 1986 and am trying to understand your problem. Is the bulkhead moving up and down relative to the hull or is the deck moving relative to the bulkhead? I may not be able to help but I know that you will love the boat. From stem to stern it is a great boat. Can I ask the selling price and equipment?

Dan, I hope you are still posting questions about Cal sailboats. I note on your Old Cal page, it has not been updated for some time. If you are, I am very interested in buying a 1976 Cal, but it has the original volvo penta MB 10A gas engine. It seems to be running fine, but I am quite concerned that it won't for very much longer. Should I be concerned? The engine is 23 years old now, how much longer can I expect it to last if I keep up the maintenance? Do any of your readers have experience with this motor for reliability?

My reply e-mail address is gfhiggins@home.com . Hope to hear from you. Geoff.

This is in reply to posting 52 requesting sail dimensions for a Cal34 III. I hope this helps.

• 100% Foretriangle 283.6 square feet
• Mainsail area 195.3 square feet
• I-41'-3"
• J-13'-9"
• P-35'-6"
• E-11'-0"

I own a cal 25 and have also owned a Cal 20. In the future I can see a cal 34. I just wanted to let you know what a great webpage this is. I am as fascinated with these boats as you are. Thanks for continuing the legacy. John

Hello, I have a Cal 29 and fitted with a Volvo-Penta MD6A engine. It is not a very powerful engine (10hp) however it drives my boat at a comfortable 5-6 knots. Here is a sample of the quality of the engine. Last January, my Cal-29 sank as a result of a bad thru-hull. The engine compartment was flooded. After salvaging and replacing the oil and batteries ... the engine started !!!. I tuned it performed some maintenance and I still use the engine today and it performs like new. Go figure ? Hope this helps. Marty

I sent you a reply for the question from the fellow who had a rusted out faryman engine in a previous e-mail. Sorry for the confusing.

I have a question now: I find that my bilge is filling up quickly. I have monitored my stuffing gland/box and it is tightened at a reasonable strength. While underway it drips at a rate of1 drip/3-5 secs ... alonside with the engine off it drips 1 drip/20-30 secs. I am happy with these rates. I have looked at all my thru hulls and none appear leaking. I had my boat out of the water in Jan-Mar and all looked good. In addition, my bilge is VERY oily. Again, I have monitored my engine while underway and ther is no apparent leak that runs to the bilge.

Here is my assessment of these problems and plesae verify if I am on the right track.

1) High bilge level while underway perhaps a combination of all drains, head, stuffing box, icebox. Is this normal accumulation of water. (Hard to taste whether water is fresh or salty because it is so oily.

2) Oily bilge. My boat is circa 1977, when I bought it is had been neglected for a few years. After several thorough inspections I have come to the conclusion that the bilge areas that I cannot easily access or reach have accumulated in oily residues and have imbedded into the glass. On some occasions I have pulled out "clumps" of oily residue from the drain under the companionway step. Is this an accurate diagnostic ?

3) Over the past three months I have attempted to eliminate dthe oil from the bilge by scrubbing (in hard to reach places) and depositing detergent (Bold) in the se areas. It seems to help as the oily smell is not as prominent. Am I on the right track ? Thanks, Marty

Dan, Enjoy your page very much. I have a 1983 Cal 35 (one hell of a boat!) which I sail in Miami and the islands, and would like to get in touch with other owners to trade information. I'd appreciate if you'd post this for me. Good sailing, Tony Battaglia

Greetings: I've enjoyed happening upon the Cal Yachts web page. I have a 1988 CAL 28 which I've owned since new and thoroughly enjoy. The boat is easily single-handed and yields good performance. Would you know if VPP's are available? I have the original brochure and an owner's manual and could make them available if someone needed a copy. There have been one or two posts from persons seeking such a boat. I do know of one for sale, a 1986 I believe, in the Charlotte, NC area and believe it to be well cared for.

Thank you for any info you may have on VPP's. Steve Treece, 73634.764@compuserve.com

Hi folks: Any other "Cal-listers" participating in the Marblehead (Boston) to Halifax race this year? I see there is a Cal 46 registered. I'll be temporarily defecting to a C&C 37 (the shame of it) for the race but would love to have a kool-aid or two with a any "Calafficianados" in the neighbourhood. Cheers, Stuart Paladin, Cal 9.2

I'm just about to buy my first Cal 20 but the boat is missing a rudder, should I buy it and if so where can I buy a used rudder, I live in so California thanks Richard

Just bought a '73 Cal 21 Hull no 649. My first boat over 16'. The gent who sold it to me clued me in to your site. Great job! hope you can keep it going forever! With all the e-mails you get do you have a listing of folks by model?? I'd be interested in contacting other Cal 21 owners - if we get enough perhaps do a little one design racing!

I just got back from the Spirit of Adventure - Around Admiralty race http://www.ptialaska.net/~sailing/admirl99.html and have been catching up on all the Cal-list entries that accumulated while we were gone. I couldn't help writing to add that I think Cals are both fast and great!

On the first leg, 102 miles, we took second overall on both actual and corrected (PHRF) time. On the 2nd leg we dueled back and forth with a C&C 34 the whole race, but were the first boat to finish by 51 minutes actual and an hour and 35 min corrected time. It wasn't quite enough to overcome the C&C's lead from the first leg, but we clamed 2nd overall and won the PHRF contest for highest finishes on both legs.

A friend and my brother-in-law and their sons crewed. We think the two boys at 13 and 14 were the youngest participants ever in the race. Many, many thanks to all of you who have provided great advice and encouragement as I have worked on the Surprise over the last two years getting it back in shape. McKie Campbell, Cal 3-30 Surprise Hull#16, Juneau, Alaska

I am interested in purchasing a new sailboat and a 1976 Cal 27 caught my eye. Seems well-maintained. Inboard diesel and tiller steering. Any idea what a boat like this might be worth? Anything in particular I should have checked out on the boat? (i.e. failure areas).

I am a new sailor. How do Cal 27's sail? Fast? Sail well upwind? downwind? etc. Is this a good starter boat? Thanks. Dave M.

Editor's reply: My cal 2-27 sails GREAT!!! Being a 1974 model, it can't sail with some of these new pancake flat, waterline length the same as length over all, super light, high tech racers of todays "high tech ? " plastics but in my opinion they are much safer . . . Some of these new designs are so wide and flat that they will turn upside down and remain there for several hours (or until they sink). Some of these new hulls are so thin that they "oil can" even in moderate conditions.

For example: My 1983 Irwin Citation's hull was NOT a quarter of an inch thick at the turn of the bilges. The hull was so thin that the noise below in heavy conditions would scare a person half to death. Beating into the famous 4 and 5 foot "Lake Erie chop" would flex the hull to the point that the cabin sole hold-down screws would rip loose. It's bad enough being in heavy conditions, without going below and seeing your cabin sole ripping loose! I finally replaced the cabin sole hold-down screws with a size larger (and twice as many) stainless steel screws. This seemed to correct the problem but I still worried about the hull strength.

So . . . give me the "good ole boats". When I look at new boats, I only search up until 1980. I'll take the "heavy" boats of the '70s, thank you. You know, the ones that put real fiberglass and resin in their hulls. As far as I'm concerned, too many of the boats manufactured from 1981 and newer are "tupperware on water". My 2-27 might be a little heavy but I feel at ease in 4 and 5 foot "Lake Erie chop). . . So? I'm old fashioned. The best 2 sailboats that I ever owned were manufactured in 1974. A 74 Catalina 27 and my 74 Cal 2-27.

Question: Do the molds for the Cal 40 still exist somewhere? If so, who and where?

Also the phone number for posting #23 is wrong. ("Cal - Pearson Corporation, 7900 Wisconsin Avenue Suite 302, Bethesda, MD 20814, vioce tel 301-652-0008, FAX 301-652-0564. ") ... it is some sort of equity financing outfit. Tom Egan

I just received my BOAT/US Magazine for July 1999 in which an article about the financial plight of the USCG appears. As an example, the article touched on the story (remember the hatchet job 20/20 did) of Morning Dew, a 1977 Cal 34 III and sistership of my beloved Rozinante. It is disheartening to see a beautiful boat with her belly ripped open and her guts hanging out but even more disheartening to learn what a "victim" society we have become.

The $35 million lawsuit is the main financial burden facing the USCG mentioned in the article. To top things off, I am wholeheartedly convinced, after hearing several accounts, that the incident was due to lack of knowledge, experience and seamanship.

The suit charges that they accidentally went out to sea at Georgetown, SC instead of down the ICW. Though Winyaw Bay does get confusing, those little yellow squares and triangles are on every daymarker that they are supposed to be on. If one does not know to look for the ICW mark, having them in place is irrelavent.

The Coast Guard Group Charleston received a garbled message (enhanced by the 20/20 staff as explained in the article) responded and received no reply. Even if the word "Mayday" were audible without a major television network's sound filter system, CG Charleston is responsible for Georgetown SC to Georgia and has been in on the action from Cape Fear, NC to Jacksonville. Where should they begin the search?

I have a listing sheet from Berry-Boger Yacht Sales for Morning Dew from a few months before she sold and her hardware, though adequate, was minimal. There is a question of whether the VHF was working properly. Offshore in 50deg water, a life raft may be justified. Though I advocate extensive Nav training (DR, DR, DR!) and not relying wholly on electronics, a GPS may have helped, they're less than $100! Most of all, The charts show the jetties coming WAY out to reach out and touch someone. You HAVE to find the sea buoy and follow the channel; the rocks are below the water at high tide. Does little good to have them if the charts aren't open.

I've made the trip to Charleston In Rozinante several times and I have to admit that it was a little eerie the first time after the Morning Dew incident. I've termed it a "cake run" and still believe it to be so. However, the first, second and third times I went into Charleston Harbour, I was on SOMEONE ELSE'S boat; they had done (grammar doesn't sound right) this run over 20 times. The first time I did the trip as the most experienced person on board, I timed it to come in during daylight (a 16hr run).

The Cruising World Magazine Safety at Sea pamphlet that was sent out with the latest subscription renewal listed seven thing that were the "recipe for disaster". Though I don't remember the list I do remember thinking that all seven were aboard Morning Dew. I do feel for a mother who has lost her two sons and her husband. I wish it hadn't happened. But I don't want to be hurt by a less effective Coast Guard that has to allocate $35 million of their budget to the widow. Selfish, maybe. But if the coasties, because of lack of funds, can't help in a future incident where, no matter how well I prepare, something goes wrong. . .

* End of rant; point of story- Let the Coasties know that the majority of the boating community is behind them. Let your State Representatives and Senators know that the Coast Guard is a vital agency that must be funded based on the future, where their roles as lifesavers, coastal defenders, educators and drug and customs agent in co-operation with DEA are only going to become more vital and more costly.

Mark Sides, Little River, SC, Cal 34 III (#58)

The Gift Of Chance

• To live one's life without the space,
• To find what life's about,
• Is like trying to win an ocean race
• Without knowing how to sail a boat.
• But, if the race is long and full
• Of excitement known to be seen,
• Then one could learn about one's boat
• And find the knowledge through his dreams.
• So, to win the race and know one's self
• And to live a life that's full,
• Sail a boat around the world
• And live the stories few can tell.
• This is the dream of many
• And still yet, of many a man.
• What is missing is the heart of a sailor,
• And an adventurer who knows he can...
• Rise to the challenge of what's unknown,
• To search for what he wants
• to live a life that he calls his own
• And learn to take the chance.
• -abanico, 15 Feb 1998

hi, I need to get a replacement center pole for my cal 25, this is the aluminum unit that fits under the fold down table. well my boat is where it is and i need to get a replacement while i am near the potential suppliers, does anyone know the dim.(diameter and length? , allan

Greetings, Thanks for all the great CAL information. We have purchased the McCance CAL27 "Liberty". Your site was helpful in our decision to buy a CAL27. Ironically, there were three CAL27's for sail on the same dock of the Boulder Marina at Lake Carlyle. The McCance's boat was by far the best, with The best accessories and the shoal keel is a great feature for Carlyle. I Have seen a PHRF of 192 for the MKIII 5's keel on a California web site. Do you have any information on MKIII with the 4' keel? Thanks again for the great CAL site! John and Nora Teipen

Hi Dan, Doug was not without a boat for long. As you know he wanted to travel more and avoid the marina expenses of a large boat. He purchased a Compac 23 which needed some TLC. The boat is sound. Doug has already sanded and painted the bottom. It is trailerable so I think it fits his current needs. In a few short weeks that Compac will be pristine, that's the way Doug is.

The standard draft on a MK III is 5.5' fin keel. We went out with Doug and Sharon last Sunday on a sea trial and the knot meter indicated 6 knots at one point. I was very happy with that! She sails steady and true just off the wind with little effort.

We plan to spend the weekend with her and get to know each other. I look forward to knowing Liberty well and racing her some.

Sorry to hear about the low Erie water table. Take care this season. Keep in touch! John

Dan and Karen Dalrymple wrote: Hello John, I'm glad to hear that you have purchased Doug's boat. Doug McCance helped me with this website as he furnished the photos and information on his (now yours) pretty Mark III. I'm sure that his boat was pristine plus. I hate to see Doug without a boat but people like him usually come back to sailing.

I'm not sure about your 4 foot draft, is this the standard shoal draft for the Mark III? What is the standard draft? If I were buying another boat it would be shoal draft for sure. Shoal draft with the biggest diesel that would fit in the engine area. Our Lake Erie is a couple feet down this year, lots of sailboats are going aground and suffering terrible damage. A Catalina 320 from our marina last week hit on the northeast side of Pelee Island and caused over $25,000 in damage and towing bills. Dan Dalrymple, editor.

Greetings, Thanks for all the great CAL information. We have purchased the McCance CAL27 "Liberty". Your site was helpful in our decision to buy a CAL27.

Ironically, there were three CAL27's for sail on the same dock of the Boulder Marina at Lake Carlyle. The McCance's boat was by far the best, with The best accessories and the shoal keel is a great feature for Carlyle. I Have seen a PHRF of 192 for the MKIII 5's keel on a California web site. Do you have any information on MKIII with the 4' keel? Thanks again for the great CAL site! John and Nora Teipen

Dan, I am looking for the black plastic flush pull cabinet handles for the cabinets and doors in a 1969 Cal 34. Nobody carries anything like that anymore, and the company on the back of the molded plastic is in Denmark. Do you have any leads on this? Blaine Williams, Rome, Georgia, (706) 236-4520

Has anybody checked out www.boatscape.com? It is a boat auction site I stumbled across.....some interesting stuff. One of the boats for sale is a Cal 34 that sounds interesting.....here is the description:

Cal 34, equipped with all the stuff needed for days offshore. Universal diesel w/less than 200 hrs, gps, loran, autopilot, depth, speed, temp, propane oven and stove, jibs incl. 170, 160, 130, 100, storm; drifter; reacher; spinnakers. All safety equipment including liferaft, epirb, etc. Really has all the stuff needed for extended offshore cruising. Interior has seperate head, shower, and forward berth. 29,000. Lloyd at 918-367-6242. Berthed in Mississippi. Gary Robitaille, Whisper, Cal 35

Hi Bob, Bob/Dee Lakari wrote: During my recent 2-29 purchase the surveyor reported wet core in the cockpit sole, the cabin roof on both sides of the companionway hatch, on the foredeck, and in several other smaller places. He determined this mostly by using a moisture meter. In addition the cabin roof is "bouncy" in the flat area around the companionway. Can anybody tell me the deck structure in those areas before I start cutting (in the Fall)? Has anybody undertaken this project? Thanks for your help.

I've done a partial foredeck core replacement on a 2-25. The core was high-density foam. I believe the 2-29 will be the same. I've also recently been involved in a deck core (balsa) replacement on an Ericson.

No huge problem but it is a slow and messy job. I can't remember if the 2-29 has a full interior cabin liner like the 2-25, but if it has you'll have to do the replacement from the top. If you are able to get at the bottom deck skin (no liner) that would be the easiest way to go. Otherwise you have to remove the deck skin to get at the bad core.

I would recommend you cut the skin around the edge of the non-skid pattern as it is easier to hide the repair join that way. You should be able to determine the bad core areas by "sounding" the deck, then drill some 1/4" holes around the perimeter to determine the actual area of damage. If you're lucky, it will only be small areas (mainly around deck fittings) but if not, you'll have to lift large areas of skin (not a fun job).

We'll be waiting to hear all your "trials and tribulations" on this job, and if we can assist in any way don't hesitate to ask. Regards, BC

I just came across a 1974 cal 24,can anyone give any info. on this boat? please e mail me at wlbeck@gateway.net thank you.

From: DRoe104232@aol.com To: go2erie@bright.net Subject: Have used Yanmar sb12 engine for sale. Date: Monday, July 05, 1999 2:17 PM

Dear Sir, I would like to sell a engine, it was rebuilt in 95, I would like to ask 1250$ or best offer, comes with control panel and harness. Thanks

OK, PC here's your chance to tell me to stick my head in the flusher again. Actually this is for any Cal 31 owners that still are using the bladder type holding tanks.

A few weeks ago I ordered a 16 gallon "V" shaped tank from Ronco Plastic, they have a complete catalog on the internet and I ordered their B-125. They are an interesting company to deal with, first they don't accept credit cards so they sent it UPS collect, Second they make each tank to order. I faxed them a sketch of where I wanted the fittings and that was how they made the tank. I have two 1 1/2 inch threaded holes for the intake and pump out and two 1inch threaded holes for two vent lines, Third they charged me less than the price listed in their catalog, I got the tank with modifications, four threaded elbows, and shipping from Calif. to NJ all for $98.

This weekend I finally had a chance to install it ( who else would attempt a job like this in 100+ degrees like we're having in the east) and it went in with out having to cut, twist or bend anything. The hoses hooked up perfectly, I had to drill two holes for the 1 inch vent line into the anchor locker. The hardest part was making a bed for it, this is one place that you really want to be careful. When its full you have almost two hundred lbs. of you know what and you don't want that coming loose in a storm.

That went so well that I started my next project, moving the circuit breaker panel from the rear bulkhead to the first opening to the left of the wine rack, thank God that I enjoy this.... Tom Leonard, Blue Chip III, '79 Cal 31 # 52, Nyack,N Y

Hi, It is apparent that I will have to rebuild the areas of my roof that have the plywood under deck structure, has anyone done it on a cal 25 and could you give me some of the details; materials cost, plywood thickness and type etc. thanks, Allan Bart

Roger, Mineral Spirits (Paint Thinner) will soften silicone but will take about six hours to work. Just soak and forget for a while. No clue as to the maker or brand. Dick Sanders, s/v "Snuffy", Cal 34, 1968 #112, Watkinsville, GA

--- Previous Message --- Roger Boyle wrote: Yikes! I don't know what to do. My furling is jammed. I tried to remove the one piece barrel "A" from the fixed base "B" (see attachment) so I could slide it up the foil "C". No go!. It was attached by two allen screws "D" - one of which I had to drill out. The roller was attached to "A" by bolt "F". The encasing drum (with 2 openings for line) was attached to "B" by a small circular plate and for bolts "E". PSeems that a prev-ownr sealed "A", where the foil enters, with silicone. I think it has broken off and jammed the furler. This does not explain why I cannot loosen "A" and have it slide up the foil. P Two things to ask of the list. Does anyone recognize the furler from the drawing attached and could tell me how it comes apart? It has no graphics on it. And, is there a solvent that breaks down silicone sealant in case this is what is stopping "A" from moving? Thanks, Roger - roll with the punches - Boyle, Cal 31 "JOLLYROG", Detroit River today. Tommorow - the.....

If you're interested in a Cal 40 you might look at "Uncle Juicy" for sail in Seattle, $42,000, she/it took 2nd in the Vic/Maui Race last year and no doubt has a great inventory, and I've raced against her and she's fast.

I don't recall her condition, but it was very well prepared, and I'm sure that it was in great racing shape. She is in the Roaring 40 Association in Seattle, and most of those boats are pristene. TImm

Sorry about the late reply.... The one listed for $39,99 is a '69. The other I didn't see. I don't know either hull number. Possibly you Saw Verne's post, he knew the boat's name and original owner. David

Dave, Just curious what year those Cal 40s were and do you have any hull numbers? Thanks, and good luck. Rob

At 11:04 AM 6/23/99 -0700, you wrote: Dear List, Have thought for the last several years that I would buy the first well-priced Cal 40 that I came across. There's one listed in Ventura for $39,900. I'd have to say she's pretty rough looking. Teak is very badly weathered and the scarfs have popped open on the toe-rails. Deck and hull are extremely chalky, mast and all deck-fittings super-corroded all over. Original wooden spreaders.

A peek through the deadlights shows moderate interior upkeep, but no apparent upgrades to equipment. Broker's blurb said a Perkins diesel, no info on hours. Thoughts?

Also a "cream-puff" listed in Santa Barbara for around $75,000. Knowing what I (now) know about re-fitting and associated costs, I'd say the $75K was a bargain between the two. Comments? David. David Wilkie Owen, mailto:wilkie@101freeway.com, http://SBbeachbungalows.com, Cal 2-29 "Missy", Santa Barbara

Hi everybody, If you have a question about almost anything relating to boating, we have put together a list of about 2,000 web sites, categorized, that pertain to boating.

From tools to schools to yards to marinas to music. Go to our main site at http://www.silverliningsoftware.com Then choose the Bow-Waves area and then the Bow-Waves Links area. The site is still under construction, but you'll be interested in what we are doing. Dave B.

Peggy, You had replied to a few of my questions from the cal list about fixing odor problems with my holding tank system. I thought I would update you since you were kind enough to give out advice. I have a SeaLand tank but the cheaper white hose (not Odor-Safe). Also, the vent was the 5/8" that comes with the tank and the hose run was quite long. Odor was a problem although the system was recently installed.

I have not had time to upgrade the hose but I did add a second 3/4" vent on a shorter-straighter run and used "K.O." treatment chemical. Actually just the extra vent almost eliminated the odor but the K.O. really helped as well. Just got through 5 days of use in 95+ degree weather with no smells evident.

Thanks for your info and guidance - it certainly worked. --Kevin

I'd love to buy a Cal25 here on Lake Champlain. I just got it surveyed and was told that the "tabling" or secondary bonding around the "tank horse" and where the bulk heads join the hull were ruptured. The joints had come loose, like sheet rock tape in a corner. I was told that it would affect the structural integrity of the boat.

This boat is 17 years old. Does anyone have any experience with this? The boat yard estimated that it would cost $600-700 to repair.

Return to my Old Cal Yachts page. This is where you just came from. It contains facts and information on Jack Jensen, Bill Lapworth and Cal Yachts.

Return to the index of my website.This index will guide you to all parts of this website including my Favorite Lake Erie boats. My Cal Yachts Question and Answer (Q&A) pages, muzzle loading ballistics, my webpage on herbal cures and more...