Dan Dalrymple's website

Fun, light and G-rated pages from Dan's family tree, sailing the Great lakes in old Cal Yachts, burning Ohio firewood, herbal cures, my humble opinions on several '70s Great Lakes sailboats, and muzzle loading ballistic charts .

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Home
Our home page.

Cal Yachts
One of my favorite sailboats. I've owned a Cal 2-27 for over 20 years. I've owned larger, newer boats but the cal 27 remains my favorite sailboats for the Great Lakes especially Lake Erie.

fun sailboats
My humble opinion on several older sailboats that were popular on the Great Lakes during the '70s

Firewood facts
Interesting information on burning firewood as a home heating aid.

Our wood stove
We've backed up our home's heating furnace with a firewood woodstove for over 40 years.

Herbal cures
Our ancestors used many different items to cure their ills. Hundreds of these items, or herbs, as people called them were developed into the medicines that we use today. Note: For information only. We do not sell or promote herbs here.

Muzzle Loading
Muzzle loading ballistic tables from my son and my experiences with Ohio muzzle loading deer hunting.

my Family History
This web page contains a complete Dalrymple family line from Andrew Dalrymple, born in Scotland about 1682, all the way down to my grandson, Brian.

Click on any of the yellow buttons above to view more of our site's pages.

 

See below . . .
~What's the best firewood to burn?
~What is "green firewood"?
~What's best, a wood stove or a fireplace?
~My opinion on Outdoor Wood Stoves.
~Firewood heating and weight value chart.
~What type chimney is the best for me?

~ Photo of our home.  Heated 90% with firewood.

                                
~ please page down for more.

I've supplemented our home heating system for over 40 years with a wood stove here in northern Ohio.

Some consider wood fuel to be bad for the environment, however this is not the case if proper techniques are used.   When wood heat replaces carbon-producing fuels such as propane, heating oil or electricity from a coal-burning plant, then wood burning has a positive impact on the world-wide carbon footprint. Today, important technological advances have resulted in cleaner burning, high efficiency wood stoves.

My home's present heating system is a 3 ton Goodman heat pump with LPG (propane) furnace as a backup. This heat pump heats our home at a very reasonable cost when the temperature is above 38 degrees. Below 38 degrees the LPG furnace takes over, this is expensive compared to heating with the heat pump. I burn my wood stove any time the outside temperature is predicted to drop below 40 degrees.

After several wood stoves I now use a Johnson Hotblast 1300 wood furnace  (Click here, or on the "Our wood stove" yellow button on left for more about our Hotblast).  The Hotblast is tied into our home heating system. It does a great job heating our home but requires dry firewood. Colder Ohio winters require almost constant wood burning, however last winter (2011/2012) was very mild and only required wood fires during the cooler evenings and nights.


~ How large is our home?
We heat 90% with Firewood. . .

We own a large ranch with a full basement. I would guess the total square footage to be about 2200. Our original (present) heat is a Goodman 3T Heat Pump with a backup gas furnace that kicks on when the temp drops to below 38 degrees. We added the wood burning furnace and connected it into our existing Heat Pump/Gas furnace ductwork. The home is well insulated, however, with over 18 inches of fiberglass in the attic.

Our Hotblast 1300 fully heats our home in the coldest of Ohio weather. It's done great even on windy below zero degree days. The Hotblast 1300 wood furnace even heats our garage. It's nice, during these Ohio winters, to jump into a warm car in the morning. The Hotblast uses very little firewood but the firewood needs to be dry.  Our chimney is 6" triple wall stainless.

I burn local Ohio fire woods including Oak, Maple, Hickory, Cherry, Elm, and Ash. I also buy several loads of slab wood from local saw mills, it dries quickly. I cut about half of my firewood myself. When I cut my own firewood I usually don't split anything that's under 10 inches in diameter. I use these large pieces to hold my fires overnight.  These large pieces need to be air dried for at least a full year, preferably for a couple years.

Last winter I used a large 40 inch in diameter White Elm for my overnight logs. This large tree was hollow. White Elm is a very tough wood to split. White Elm is only rated as "fair" in firewood value in the chart below but I enjoy burning it. It burns evenly and completely leaving very few ashes.

This winter I'll use a few large Black Cherries (known as Wild Cherry here in Ohio) that I cut last summer (I sold the logs but saved everything under 12 inches in diameter for firewood). Cherry and Elm are not "excellent" heat producing woods (see chart below) but they do a good job. they're good woods to mix with Oak and Hickory. I enjoy burning these woods.

 Add a couple 7 inch x 20 inch Wild Cherries (or two 7" x 20" Elms) to a hot bed of coals then put a good dry 8" x 20" White Oak or Hickory on top and you have a fire that will hold for 12 or more hours and still re-ignite easily from the hot coals without a match.

One cord of seasoned hardwood will provide more BTUs than 225 gallons of propane, 275k cu. ft. natural gas, or 133 gallons of #2 fuel oil. Compare your local prices for each.


"Green firewood":  Ever try to burn freshly cut firewood?   Freshly cut firewood is called "green" firewood. It contains a lot of water.  Some green firewoods are more than half water by weight. Green wood must air dry before it will burn efficiently.

Burning green firewood doesn't provide much heat into the home. It causes more smoke and will coat your flue with creosote. Freshly cut firewood has up to 60% water content and won't burn very well in your wood stove. First, you must let the firewood season, which allows the moisture to escape. When the wood gets down below 20% water content, it's ready to burn. 

When green firewood is burned, the water in the wood must be boiled into steam to get rid of it. Thousands of BTUs are used to boil the water out of the green wood. These BTUs are lost as home heat since it they are  returned into the outside air as the steam returns to water vapor.

Let's look at White Oak, a Excellent burning firewood when "dry or seasoned**".  Here's an example of how much water is in "green" White Oak".

1 cord of "green" White Oak weighs about*   6,290 pounds. 
1 cord of air dried White Oak weighs about* 3,710 pounds.
                                                                                       = 2,580  pounds of water in a cord of "green" White Oak
 Water is 8 pounds per gallon, so divide by             8
                                                                                     =  322  gallons of water in a cord of "green" White Oak

This means that almost SIX  55 gallon drums full of water (330 gallons) must be boiled out of this "green" firewood before it can heat your home. The heat that is used to boil this water is lost as home heat.


How efficient is your wood stove or fireplace?  Click link below . . .

                 Click here:  Wood stove/fireplace efficiency facts:


Dry firewood weight by cubic foot . . .
Weighing a single cubic foot of dry wood is a good way to determine the heat value in BTUs of the species as a firewood. Click here for more . . .


~Firewood heating and weight values chart
                                     
with notes below . . .   
~ please page down for more.

 
Wood Heating and Weight Values
Species Million Btu/Cord* Value as firewood:
 
Easy to burn? Easy to split? Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN

Alder, Red

18.4 - 19.5 Fair Fair Yes 2000 - 2600 3200 - 4100
Apple 26.5 Excellent Yes Yes 3712 4825
Ash, Green, see Note *1 23.5 - 25.0 Excellent Yes Yes 3178 4237
Ash, White,  see Note *1 23.6 Excellent Yes Yes 3689 4242
Aspen 17.0 - 18.0 Poor/Fair Yes Yes 1860 - 2400 3020 - 3880
Beech 28.6 - 30.4 Excellent Yes No 3100 - 4000 4890 - 6290
Birch, Black 25.9 - 27.5 Excellent Fair Yes 2840 - 3650 4630 - 5960
Birch, White 20.3 Fair Fair Fair 2979 3724
Birch, Yellow 23.6 Excellent Yes Yes 3489 4291
Box Elder 17.9 Poor/Fair Fair Low 2597 3765
Buckeye, Ohio 13.8 Poor Fair Yes 1955 n/a
Butternut 14.5 Poor Yes Yes 1900 n/a
Catalpa 15.5 Poor No No 2380 n/a
Species Million Btu/Cord* Value as firewood:
 
Easy to burn? Easy to split? Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN
Cedar, Incense 17.8 - 20.1 Fair Fair Fair 1800 - 2350 3020 - 3880
Cedar, Port Orford 20.7 - 23.4 Excellent Fair Fair 2100 - 2700 3400 - 4370
Cedar, Western Red    see *5 below 15.4 - 17.4 Poor Yes Yes 1570 - 2000 2700 - 3475
Cherry 21.3 - 22.7 Fair Yes Yes 2450 - 3150 4100 - 5275
Chestnut 15.8 - 17.1 Poor Yes Yes n/a n/a
Chinquapin (Oak) 23.2 - 24.7 Excellent Yes No 2580 - 3450 3670 - 4720
Cottonwood 15.8 - 16.8 Poor Yes Yes 1730 - 2225 2700 - 3475
Dogwood 28.6 - 30.4 Excellent Yes Yes 3130 - 4025 5070 - 6520
Douglas-Fir 23.5 - 26.5 Excellent Yes Yes 2400 - 3075 3930 - 5050
Elm, American 22.3 - 23.7 Excellent Fair No 2450 - 3150 4070 - 5170
Elm , Red   see Note *2  below 21.6 Fair Fair Yes 3112 4201
Elm, Rock  see *2 23.5 Fair Fair No 3220 4212
Elm, white  see *2 19.5 Fair Yes No 3052 4120
Eucalyptus 32.5 - 34.5 Excellent + Yes No 3550 - 4560 6470 - 7320
Fir, Grand 17.8 - 20.1 Fair Fair Yes 1800 - 2330 3020 - 3880
Fir, Red 18.3 - 20.6 Fair Fair Yes 1860 - 2400 3140 - 4040
Fir, White 18.8 - 21.1 Fair Fair Yes 1900 - 2450 3190 - 4100
Species Million Btu/Cord* Value as firewood:
 
Easy to burn? Easy to split? Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN
Hemlock, Western 21.6 - 24.4 Excellent     2200 - 2830 4460 - 5730
Hickory, Shagbark 25.5 - 28.7 Excellent Yes No 4327 5149
Ironwood or"Hop Hornbeam" 
   see Note *6  below
26.4 Excellent Yes No 4250 5315
Juniper, Western 23.4 - 26.4 Excellent Yes   2400 - 3050 4225 - 5410
Laurel, California 24.6 - 26.1 Excellent n/a n/a 2690 - 3450 4460 - 5730
Locust, Black 30.5 - 32.4 Excellent + Yes Yes 3230 - 4150 6030 - 7750
Madrone 29.1 - 30.9 Excellent No   3180 - 4086 5070 - 6520
Magnolia 22.3 - 23.7 Excellent Yes Yes 2440 - 3140 4020 - 5170
Maple, Big Leaf 21.4 - 22.7 Fair Yes Yes 2350 - 3000 3840 - 4940
Maple, Sugar 22.5 - 24.7 Excellent Yes Fair 3140 3740
Maple, Red (soft maple) 19.3 - 20.7 Fair Yes Fair 2900 3596
Maple, Black 25.5 - 26.7 Excellent Yes Fair 3400 4250
Maple, Silver 19.3 - 20.7 Fair Yes Yes 2724 3459
Osage Orange (Hedge) Note *8 32.9 Excellent + Yes n/a 4728 6146
Species Million Btu/Cord* Value as firewood:
 
Easy to burn? Easy to split? Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN
Oak, Black 25.8 - 27.4 Excellent Yes Yes 2821 - 3625 4450 - 5725
Oak, Red  See Note *3 below 25.9 - 27.8 Excellent Yes Yes 2821 - 3625 4450 - 5725
Oak, Live  Note *3 34.4 - 36.6 Excellent Yes   3766 - 4840 6120 - 7870
Oak, White  Note *3 27.4 - 29.1 Excellent Yes Fair 2880 - 3710 4890 - 6290
Pine, Jeffery 19.3 - 21.7 Fair Yes   1960 - 2520 3320 - 4270
Pine, Lodgepole 19.7 - 22.3 Fair Yes   2000 - 2580 3320 - 4270
Pine, Ponderosa 19.3 - 21.7 Fair Yes Yes 1960 - 2520 3370 - 4270
Pine, Sugar 17.3 - 19.6 Fair Yes Yes 1960 - 2270 2970 - 3820
Pine, White  Note *4 below 19.3 - 21.7 Fair Yes Yes 2000 (estimate) n/a
Redwood, Coast 17.8 - 20.1 Fair Yes   1810 - 2330 3140 - 4040
Spruce, Sitka  See  Note *9 below 19.3 - 21.7 Fair Yes Yes 1960 - 2520 3190 - 4100
Sweetgum 20.6 - 22.9 Excellent Fair No 2255 - 2900 4545 - 5840
Sycamore 21.9 - 23.3 Fair Fair No 2390 - 3080 4020 - 5170
Tanoak 25.9 - 27.5 Excellent n/a n/a 2845 - 3650 4770 - 6070
Species Million Btu/Cord* Value as firewood:
 
Easy to burn? Easy to split? Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN
Walnut, Black 22.5 - 24.0 Fair Yes Yes 2680 - 3450 4450 - 5725
Willow, Black Note *10 below 16.5 - 17.6 Poor No Yes 1910 - 2450 3140 - 4040
Willow, Weeping Note *10 below 16.5 - 17.6 Poor No Yes 1910 - 2450 3140 - 4040

Note *1. White and Green Ash are both very popular Ohio trees. They're very similar in heating qualities and appearance. Ash is a great firewood and also famous for being the best wood for baseball bats and other sports equipment such as tennis racquets, hockey sticks, bowling alley floors and polo mallets. "Green" Ash has a very low moisture content.

The Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis), is a destructive exotic pest from Asia that is killing many of our Ohio Ash trees. This metallic wood-boring beetle attacks all of Ohio's native ash species, and has no known significant natural enemies in this country. The Emerald Ash Borer has been discovered infesting ash trees in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois.

Note *2. Elm: Dutch Elm disease has killed many of our Elm trees. Elm is a decent burning firewood but not excellent. I enjoy burning it. Diseased Elm trees lose their bark and remain standing for a long time. These barkless trees make good emergency firewood when burned "green". If I run low on firewood, I search my woods for these dead and barkless Elm trees to cut and burn without drying.

Note *3 Oak: I try to let my Oak and Hickory dry for two years if possible. GREAT burning firewoods but they must be air dried before burning. Both woods are good for holding a fire overnight. It's nice to mix them with less dense firewoods such as Cherry or Elm when wanting good quick daytime heat.

Note *4 White Pine is used for new home construction. Scrap White Pine lumber makes good kindling. These scraps are already dried and they split easily when cut into short sections. Small scrap cutoffs are usually readily available from construction sites. Scrap 2x4s, 2x6s, etc. make good kindling. These scraps are already dried and they split easily when cut into short sections. I cut them into sections about 8 inches long then split them into pencil size, and larger, pieces. They will light with a match. Note: Treated Yellow Pine should not be burned as it produces dangerous gasses.
 
Note *5 Western Red Cedar is used for older electric poles. Small scrap cutoffs are usually available from utility companies. Scrap Western Red Cedar makes good kindling. These scraps are already dried and they split easily when cut into short sections. I cut them into sections about 8 inches long then split them into pencil size, and larger, pieces. They will light with a match. Western Red Cedar does a lot of snapping and popping when burning.

Note *6 Ironwood or Hop Hornbeam:  Not a large tree, I usually don't bother to split it. Let it dry for a couple years. It's great for holding fires overnight. Very hard and heavy but not durable to weather. Ironwood makes good tool handles, or implements that require taking great strain. It's very wear resistant, Amish use it to make buggy shaft sides, the long wood shafts that go from the front of the buggy up each side of the horse.

Note *7 Creosote: You will have less creosote problems if you use a triple wall stainless steel chimney. Masonry chimneys tend to build up creosote easier since masonry flue walls stay cooler, allowing the creosote to build. Masonry is fine, it just tends to allow creosote to build faster. If you have an older masonry chimney, a stainless steel liner can be inserted by a contractor. I mention this for users that are installing new chimneys. If you have a choice, stick with a quality stainless steel triple wall. Keep the flue run as vertical as possible.

Note *8 Osage-orange (known as Hedge here in Ohio) is one of the best burning firewoods in the world. Hedge throws off a lot of heat, more than any other species in North America. It burns almost as hot as coal. Be very careful when handling Osage-Orange. It has large thorns that can injure a person or puncture a tire. Another thing to watch for is that it throws a lot of sparks when it isn't fully seasoned. Burn it when it's moisture content is 20% or below and you will be amazed by the amount of heat that it produces.

Note *9 Sitka Spruce knots (and most pine knots) are an excellent heat source, add several to your wood stove for a fire that will last all night. However, they can cause creosote in your flue. Spruce firewood (except for knots) burns rapidly but puts out decent heat. Spruce and most Pines are easy to split for great kindling.

Note *10  Willows, Weeping or Black both become as light as Balsa wood when dry. They're also very hard to dry since they absorb water easily. They are poor firewood. If Willow firewood is stored anywhere where it can obtain moisture it can sprout and grow into another tree.

I haven't burned or tested all of the firewoods listed in the chart above. Many of these numbers are from other sources, books, internet, whatever. I don't have the equipment and the time to measure the weights of green and dry firewood. I mostly burn local Ohio firewoods. Some of the firewoods listed are western woods that I haven't burned. I compiled this chart to keep someone from wasting their time cutting firewood that won't offer much heat when dry (I did this one summer by spending time cutting Willow for firewood).

Please send any additions or corrections to go2erie@sssnet.com . Disclaimer: I offer these details in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information.


                                                                            ~please page down for more . . .

Best firewoods to burn (seasoned or dry firewood):
  #1- Osage Orange, #2- Black Locust, #3- Shagbark Hickory, #4- White Oak, #5- Beech, #6- Sugar Maple, #7- Red Oak, #8- Yellow Birch, #9- Ash, #10- Red Maple, #11- Wild (Black) Cherry.

OK, sometimes it turns out to be necessary to burn some "green" firewood. Which species will be the best to try? #1- Ash, #2- Beech, #3- Black Locust

Firewood Measurements: A single cord measures 8 feet long, 4 feet high and 4 feet wide or 128 cubic feet. Splitting firewood quickly allows it to air dry faster.

Remember: Just one cord of seasoned Red Oak, Hickory, or Ash will provide more BTUs than 225 gallons of propane, 275k cu. ft. natural gas, or 133 gallons of #2 fuel oil. Compare your local prices for each.

Firewood with High or Very high heat output 1 cord = 21,000,000 - 24,000,000 BTU = 200-250 gal. of fuel oil or 250-300 cu. ft. of natural gas.
Firewood with Fair heat output 1 cord = 17,000,000 - 20,000,000 BTU = 150-200 gal. of fuel oil or 200-250 cu. ft. of natural gas.
Firewood with Low heat output 1 cord = 12,000,000-17,000,000 BTU = 100-150 gal. of fuel oil or 200-250 cu. ft. of natural gas.

~What's best, a wood stove or a fireplace?
Average fireplace, 15% efficiency (at best),  my US Stove Hotblast 1300 has 65% efficiency
. Some newer woodstoves are higher.

Wood stoves are more efficient at heating a room or home with the same amount of wood, in comparison to a fireplace. This is because a stove is closed and controlled, whereas much of the heat output of an open fire escapes up the chimney rather than into the house. An average open fireplace will have an efficiency of up to 15 percent, but the chimney will cause a negative efficiency overall, as the fire in the fireplace burns down in the evening. The hot chimney will continue to pull warm air from the room, causing cold, outside air to be pulled into the home. This results in a very high heat loss.

What’s wrong with most masonry chimneys ?
* Many are old and were not built to present day specs.
* They are often oversize and not insulated, resulting in poor draft and excess creosote formation
* Proper clearances to combustible (wood framing, siding, etc.) are not maintained
* No room for expansion of the flue tiles, resulting in cracked and damaged liners
* Most masonry chimneys over 10 years old should be checked by a qualified contractor.

Stacking and drying firewood.
The most important reason for stacking firewood is to speed up the drying process. Stacking 3 or 4 rows deep will lessen the effects of the wind and sun drying the firewood.

The best way to keep your wood dry is to store it in a wood shed. A good woodshed allows air to circulate but keeps rain and snow off the firewood. If a woodshed is not possible you should stack it outside. You shouldn't stack your firewood directly on the ground. Wood should be stacked so that air can reach all of it. Never cover the sides of the stack since air must circulate through it. If you stack several rows beside each other leave space between them (6-12") so the air can circulate to dry the firewood.

Firewood should be cut into 22 inch lengths or shorter depending on your woodstove. I cut my firewood all about 18 inches long. Split firewood will dry a little quicker but splitting isn't absolutely necessary. Firewood dries mostly from the ends since this is the way that the water travels through the tree normally.

Firewood should never be left outside in a large uncovered pile, it will rot in the center of the pile. It should be stacked neatly in a dry area with space between the stacks so that air can circulate through the stack.

It's best to split and stack firewood soon after it's cut. This allows the wood to dry faster. Here's a quick drying trick if you're able to do it. My father taught this to me. When cutting firewood in the summer while the leaves are on the trees, fell the tree, don't cut it any more. Let it lay with the leaves on until they wilt away. It takes a month or so but the leaves will pull most of the moisture from the tree. This will give the firewood a good start in drying.

~My opinion on Outdoor Wood Stoves.
These outdoor wood stoves are very popular. On the good side, they are very safe. No fire or ashes are inside your home. These stoves burn about any kind of wood, wet or dry. However, most require a LOT of firewood. Maybe they don't all work this way but most do . . .

The biggest reason that they burn a lot of firewood is in the way they burn it. These furnaces have two modes. I call one mode the "blast furnace" mode, the other is the "smolder" mode. Water is usually used to transfer the heat from the stove into the home. The firebox is surrounded by water. When the water requires heat, an electric blower forces air into the combustion chamber like a blast furnace. This causes a lot of smoke and heat to exit up thru the flue. The fire must then be extinguished quickly before the water boils. So, when the water temp reaches about 180 degrees, the furnace shuts off almost all the air to the firebox. The fire shuts down, smoldering, until more water heat is required. As the water cools down, the "blast furnace cycle" starts again.

Another way to demonstrate this . . . when my Hotblast 1300 is happily heating my home on a 30 degree Ohio day, the damper in my 6 inch flue is more than half closed. I could go up on my roof and hold my bare hand a foot or so above the top of the flue for a couple minutes without getting burned. This means that almost all the heat that is produced by the firewood is remaining in my home.

Try doing this with an Outdoor Wood Furnace as it's heating on a 30 degree day. I'm afraid that you would be left with third degree burns on your hand. Now think about this? Is this large amount of heat that is exiting through the flue helping to heat your home?

Several of my friends have Outdoor Wood Furnaces. There are times when these furnaces emit high volumes of nasty, black, smoke. They also burn at least twice as much firewood as I do, while heating similar size homes.

Again on the good side, these stoves are outside with no flame or ashes inside the home. They burn about any kind of wood, wet or dry. They hold a large amount of firewood and only need to be stoked a couple times a day.  They save their owners a lot of money in home heating costs. Most Outdoor Wood Furnace owners love 'em.
 


You also might enjoy looking at our Apple Creek United Methodist Church website at  http:www.applecreekumc.com

Dan Dalrymple, Wooster, Ohio
This page last updated on May 13, 2013.