Wood Heating and
Weight Values |
Species |
Million
Btu/Cord* |
Value
as firewood:
|
Easy
to burn? |
Easy
to split? |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN |
Alder,
Red |
18.4 - 19.5 |
Fair |
Fair |
Yes |
2000 - 2600 |
3200 - 4100 |
Apple |
26.5 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
3712 |
4825 |
Ash,
Green, see
Note
*1 |
23.5 - 25.0 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
3600 |
4237 |
Ash,
White, see
Note
*1 |
23.5
- 25.0 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
3689 |
4242 |
Aspen |
17.0 - 18.0 |
Poor/Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
1860 - 2400 |
3020 - 3880 |
Beech |
27.6 -
29.4 |
Excellent |
Yes |
No |
3100 -
3900 |
4890 - 6290 |
Birch,
Black |
25.9 - 27.5 |
Excellent |
Fair |
Yes |
2840 - 3650 |
4630 - 5960 |
Birch,
White |
20.3 |
Fair |
Fair |
Fair |
2979 |
3724 |
Birch,
Yellow |
23.6 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
3489 |
4291 |
Box
Elder |
17.9 |
Poor/Fair |
Fair |
Low |
2597 |
3765 |
Buckeye, Ohio |
13.8 |
Poor |
Fair |
Yes |
1955 |
n/a |
Butternut |
14.5 |
Poor |
Yes |
Yes |
1900 |
n/a |
Catalpa |
15.5 |
Poor |
No |
No |
2380 |
n/a |
Species |
Million
Btu/Cord* |
Value
as firewood:
|
Easy
to burn? |
Easy
to split? |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN |
Cedar, Incense |
17.8 - 20.1 |
Fair |
Fair |
Fair |
1800 - 2350 |
3020 - 3880 |
Cedar, Port Orford |
20.7 - 23.4 |
Excellent |
Fair |
Fair |
2100 - 2700 |
3400 - 4370 |
Cedar, Western Red
see
*5
below |
15.4 - 17.4 |
Poor |
Yes |
Yes |
1570 - 2000 |
2700 - 3475 |
Cherry |
21.3 - 22.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
2450 - 3150 |
4100 - 5275 |
Chestnut |
15.8 -
17.1 |
Poor |
Yes |
Yes |
n/a |
n/a |
Chinquapin
(Oak) |
23.2 - 24.7 |
Excellent |
Yes |
No |
2580 - 3450 |
3670 - 4720 |
Cottonwood |
15.8 - 16.8 |
Poor |
Yes |
Yes |
1730 - 2225 |
2700 - 3475 |
Dogwood |
28.6 - 30.4 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
3130 - 4025 |
5070 - 6520 |
Douglas-Fir |
23.5 - 26.5 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
2400 - 3075 |
3930 - 5050 |
Elm,
American |
22.3 - 23.7 |
Excellent |
Fair |
No |
2450 - 3150 |
4070 - 5170 |
Elm ,
Red
see
Note *2
below |
21.6 |
Fair |
Fair |
No |
3112 |
4201 |
Elm,
Rock
see
*2 |
23.5 |
Fair |
Fair |
No |
3220 |
4212 |
Elm,
white
see
*2 |
19.5 |
Fair |
Yes |
No |
3052 |
4120 |
Eucalyptus |
32.5 - 34.5 |
Excellent + |
Yes |
No |
3550 - 4560 |
6470 - 7320 |
Fir, Grand |
17.8 - 20.1 |
Fair |
Fair |
Yes |
1800 - 2330 |
3020 - 3880 |
Fir, Red |
18.3 - 20.6 |
Fair |
Fair |
Yes |
1860 - 2400 |
3140 - 4040 |
Fir, White |
18.8 - 21.1 |
Fair |
Fair |
Yes |
1900 - 2450 |
3190 - 4100 |
Species |
Million
Btu/Cord* |
Value
as firewood:
|
Easy
to burn? |
Easy
to split? |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN |
Hemlock, Western |
21.6 - 24.4 |
Excellent |
|
|
2200 - 2830 |
4460 - 5730 |
Hickory, Shagbark |
26.5
- 30.3 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Fair |
4427 |
5149 |
Ironwood or"Hop Hornbeam"
see
Note *6
below |
26.4 |
Excellent |
Yes |
No |
4250 |
5315 |
Juniper, Western |
23.4 - 26.4 |
Excellent |
Yes |
|
2400 - 3050 |
4225 - 5410 |
Laurel, California |
24.6 - 26.1 |
Excellent |
n/a |
n/a |
2690 - 3450 |
4460 - 5730 |
Locust, Black |
30.5 - 32.4 |
Excellent + |
Yes |
Yes |
3230 - 4150 |
6030 - 7750 |
Madrone |
29.1 - 30.9 |
Excellent |
No |
|
3180 - 4086 |
5070 - 6520 |
Magnolia |
22.3 - 23.7 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
2440 - 3140 |
4020 - 5170 |
Maple, Big Leaf |
21.4 - 22.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
2350 - 3000 |
3840 - 4940 |
Maple,
Sugar |
22.5
- 25.7 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Fair |
3480 |
4270 |
Maple,
Red (soft maple) |
19.8 - 21.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Fair |
3100 |
3596 |
Maple,
Black |
25.5
- 26.7 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Fair |
3400 |
4250 |
Maple,
Silver |
19.3 - 20.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
2724 |
3459 |
Osage Orange (Hedge)
Note *8 |
32.9 |
Excellent + |
Yes |
n/a |
4728 |
6146 |
Species |
Million
Btu/Cord* |
Value
as firewood:
|
Easy
to burn? |
Easy
to split? |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN |
Oak, Black |
24.8 - 26.4 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Yes |
2921
- 3700 |
4450 - 5725 |
Oak,
Red
See
Note *3
below |
25.9
- 27.8 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Fair |
2921 - 3825 |
4450 - 5725 |
Oak, Live
Note *3 |
34.4 - 36.6 |
Excellent |
Yes |
|
3766 - 4840 |
6120 - 7870 |
Oak, White
Note *3 |
27.4
- 29.1 |
Excellent |
Yes |
Fair |
2980 - 3910 |
4890 - 6290 |
Pine, Jeffery |
19.3 - 21.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
|
1960 - 2520 |
3320 - 4270 |
Pine, Lodgepole |
19.7 - 22.3 |
Fair |
Yes |
|
2000 - 2580 |
3320 - 4270 |
Pine, Ponderosa |
19.3 - 21.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
1960 - 2520 |
3370 - 4270 |
Pine, Sugar |
17.3 - 19.6 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
1960 - 2270 |
2970 - 3820 |
Pine,
White
Note *4
below |
19.3 - 21.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
2000
(estimate) |
n/a |
Redwood, Coast |
17.8 - 20.1 |
Fair |
Yes |
|
1810 - 2330 |
3140 - 4040 |
Spruce, Sitka
See
Note
*9
below |
19.3 - 21.7 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
1960 - 2520 |
3190 - 4100 |
Sweetgum |
20.6 - 22.9 |
Excellent |
Fair |
No |
2255 - 2900 |
4545 - 5840 |
Sycamore |
21.2 - 22.3 |
Fair |
Fair |
No |
2390 - 3080 |
4020 - 5170 |
Tanoak |
25.9 - 27.5 |
Excellent |
n/a |
n/a |
2845 - 3650 |
4770 - 6070 |
Species |
Million
Btu/Cord* |
Value
as firewood:
|
Easy
to burn? |
Easy
to split? |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
DRY |
Cord Weight
(pounds) **
GREEN |
Walnut, Black |
22.5 - 24.0 |
Fair |
Yes |
Yes |
2680 - 3450 |
4450 - 5725 |
Willow, Black
Note
*10
below |
16.5 - 17.6 |
Poor |
No |
Yes |
1910 - 2450 |
3140 - 4040 |
Willow, Weeping
Note
*10
below |
16.5 - 17.6 |
Poor |
No |
Yes |
1910 - 2450 |
3140 - 4040 |
Note *1. White
and Green Ash are both very popular Ohio trees.
When air dried "seasoned", they're
very similar in heating qualities and appearance. The
big difference is their moisture content when "green"
(unseasoned For example "green" White Ash contains only 13% moisture, unseasoned Green
Ash = 25% moisture).
Ash is
a great firewood and also used for baseball bats and
other sports equipment such as tennis racquets, hockey
sticks, bowling alley floors and polo mallets.
The Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis),
is a destructive exotic pest from Asia that is killing
many of our Ohio Ash trees. This metallic wood-boring
beetle attacks all of Ohio's native ash species, and has
no known significant natural enemies in this country.
The Emerald Ash Borer is infesting Ash
trees in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois.
Note *2. Elm: Dutch
Elm disease has killed many of our Elm trees. Elm is a
decent burning firewood but not excellent. I enjoy
burning it. Diseased Elm trees lose their bark and
remain standing for a long time. These barkless trees
make good emergency firewood when burned "green". If I
run low on firewood, I search my woods for these dead
and barkless Elm trees to cut and burn without drying.
Note *3 Oak: I try
to let my White Oak air dry for two years if possible. GREAT burning
firewood but it must be air dried before burning.
White Oak is a great firewood for holding a fire overnight. It's nice to mix
it
with less dense firewoods such as Cherry or Elm when wanting good quick
daytime heat.
Note *4 White Pine
is used for new home construction. Scrap White Pine
lumber makes good kindling. These scraps are already
dried and they split easily when cut into short
sections. Small scrap
cutoffs are usually readily available from construction
sites. Scrap 2x4s, 2x6s, etc. make good kindling. These
scraps are already dried and they split easily when cut
into short sections. I cut them into sections about 8 inches long
then split them into pencil size, and larger, pieces. They will light
with a match. Note: Treated Yellow
Pine should not be burned as it produces dangerous
gasses.
Note *5 Western
Red Cedar is used for many electric poles. Small scrap
cutoffs are sometimes available from utility companies.
Scrap Western Red Cedar makes good kindling. These scrap
utility poles are already dried and they split easily when cut
into short sections. I cut them into sections about 8
inches long then split them into pencil size, and
larger, pieces. They will light
with a match. Western Red Cedar does a lot of
snapping and popping when burning.
Note *6 Ironwood
or Hop Hornbeam: Not a large tree, I usually don't
bother to split it. Let it dry for a couple years. It's
great for holding fires overnight. Very hard and heavy
but not durable to weather. Ironwood makes good tool
handles, or implements that require taking great strain.
It's very wear resistant, Amish use it to make buggy
shaft sides, the long wood shafts that go from the front
of the buggy up each side of the horse.
Note *7 Creosote:
You will have less creosote problems if you use a triple
wall stainless steel chimney. Masonry chimneys tend to
build up creosote easier since masonry flue walls stay
cooler, allowing the creosote to build. Masonry is fine,
it just tends to allow creosote to build faster. If you
have an older masonry chimney, a stainless steel liner
can be inserted by a contractor. I mention this for
users that are installing new chimneys. If you have a
choice, stick with a quality stainless steel triple
wall. Keep the flue run as vertical as possible.
Note *8
Osage-orange (known as Hedge here in Ohio) is one of the best burning firewoods in the
world. Hedge throws off a lot of heat, more than any
other species in North America. It burns almost as hot
as coal. Be careful when handling Osage-Orange.
It has
large thorns that can injure a person or puncture a tire.
Another thing to watch for is that it throws
a lot of sparks when it isn't fully
seasoned. Burn it when it's moisture content is 20% or
below and you will be amazed by the amount of heat that
it produces.
Note *9 Sitka
Spruce knots (and most pine knots) are an excellent heat
source, add several to your wood stove for a fire that
will last all night. However, they can cause creosote in
your
flue. Spruce firewood (except for knots) burns rapidly but puts out
decent heat.
Spruce and most Pines are easy to split for great kindling.
Note *10 Willows,
Weeping or Black both become as light as Balsa
wood when dry. They're also very hard to dry since they
absorb water easily. They are poor firewood. If
Willow firewood is stored anywhere where it can obtain
moisture it can sprout and grow into another tree.
Be sure to use only dry
seasoned wood. Green wood, besides burning at only
50 to 60% of the fuel value of dry wood, deposits
creosote on the inside of your stove and chimney. This
can cause an extreme danger of a chimney fire. To be
called "Seasoned wood" it must be properly air dried for
at least a full year.
Ashes should always be
placed in a metal container with a tight fitting metal
lid. This container shall not be located near any
combustibles (including a wood floor).
Remember,
firewood dumped outside, in a pile won't dry,
and won't burn well. Rain
will run down and soak into cut ends while ground
moisture will migrate
up and soak into spongy inner bark. Wood left in a heap
will soon rot and be rendered useless as firewood.
Firewood must be cut into
16" to 22" pieces, split and properly stacked to
properly dry. Shorter pieces will dry faster.
I haven't burned or tested all
of the firewoods listed in the chart above. Many of these
numbers are from other sources, books, internet, whatever. I
don't have the equipment and the time to measure the weights of green and dry
firewood. I mostly burn local Ohio firewoods. Some of the firewoods listed are
western woods that I haven't burned. I compiled this chart to keep someone from
wasting their time cutting firewood that won't offer much heat when dry (I did this
one summer by spending time cutting Willow for firewood).
Please send any additions or corrections to
go2erie@sssnet.com . Disclaimer: I offer these details in good faith but
cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information.
Remember:
Just one cord of good seasoned
hardwood
will provide more
BTUs than
225
gallons of propane,
2.75
CCF
natural gas, or
133 gallons of #2 fuel oil.
Compare your
local prices for each.
Cut down on your work. Modern
wood stoves with higher efficiency ratings produce
more heat from less firewood.
You also might enjoy looking at our Apple Creek
United Methodist Church website at
http:www.applecreekumc.com
Dan Dalrymple, Wooster, Ohio
This page last updated on
May 07, 2016.